jtdesigns

see if itll start if you pour gas in the TB. If its got spark, air, and fuel it will start..

Shoot Id get some 20s on the rear and 18s on the front..

:hijack: Whamm I sent you a pm about that 96.. I need some parts off that Jeep if its being parted out.

I think it might have something to do with the volt gauge.. Remembering the same problem I faced with an S-10 not having the cluster in for a day or two.. Something about the alt used the gauge cluster to know when to charge.. or could be a bad bulb?

Low blinker fluid.

Fusible link? or maybe the wire that comes from the ecu to turn the voltage regulator on??

Its easier then you think.. Things to have on hand are; A big C-clamp Zip ties or wire High Temp Brake grease Take the clamp and press the calipers open. Remove the 7mm slide pins zip tie or wire the calipers up, so that don't hang by the hose. remove funky anti-rattle clips pop old pads out, grease the slide pins and slide pin boots pop new pads in then reverse the above.

I'm not lost at all. Just had a little too much to drink, passed out on a tan couch that wasn't ours. Got thrown in a shipping container, and spent the better part of winter trying to get out of the rural mountains of Mongolia with no money, flip flops on ma feet, and an extremely small understanding of japanese. :yes: Holy cheesesteak!!!!!!!! :eek: :eek: Any Kung-fu fighting???? Hey Brent,,, so hows the schooling going???

Here you go...

Whats the porta power being used for???

If I understood exactly what that meant... Just throw baby powder everywhere? I know there is still some coming from behind the fuse box, but ... ...AND baby powder = white... interior = white... //just an observation... Yeah the white powder might not be seen very well huh...

Why don't you do the baby powder thing that Pete suggests???

Read^ Your truck isnt the electronic speedo, so you need to find a cable driven one.

:rotfl2: :yes: :agree:

WTH!!!!!!! :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: Thats just plain STUPID... :fool:

lol... I envision James Bond.. You should had another nozzle that sprayed oil on the road..Like that Spy Hunter Game..

Booooooo... :teehee: I think those pups are cute and sweet,, I've had two through the years,, one blond Cocker, I watched get hit by a car when I was about 9 or 10. His name was Biscuit and looked alot like your permed eared pooch.. The other was all black and was a OK dog. He was a terror to my brother (I think he used to tease him to much) There just dumb dogs in my eyes. Stubborn and duhhh.. I'm not knocking every single one in the world, just in general. :popcorn: So... :cheers: I understand now Have a beer on me, no kid should have to see what you saw happen to their pooch. Yeah I cried like a baby.. :oops: Stupid dang dog.. He never would listen...

I was just razzing you on the DSM, me being a Honda guy. :razz: My boy had a modified Talon TSI that would scare you. Fun car to drive, it had a weird slow release clutch that wouldnt allow you to just dump and lose traction, but it would kinda slowly release, hook-up, and you'd better hold on. Yeah I think your ok on your compression numbers, but you do have more then a 10% loss from 140 to 160 psi. Did you put a table spoon of oil in the cylinders? Whats called a wet test? Especially in the #1, #2, and #5 cylinders. The oil will seal the rings for a few secs and let you know if air is passing through them. You should get a 10~20 psi increase if the rings are worn. 140 is getting on the low side. As for my homemade tester I used it mostly for finding blown head gaskets and worn valve seals on Honda engines. Its pretty much like the little write up that 64 Cheyenne linked to. Yeah just replace that timing chain and ride it. It'll slowly lose oumph but by the time it losses all compression you should be in a better position to swap, rebuild. The 4O engines are incredible engines for longtivity.

haha. no **** right?!@ :clapping: (anyone else see the irony in that statement lolz) :yes:

no it wasnt... Oh wait.. Your the last guy who bought the swaybar in 07, or the guy in CA I talked to???

Have any of you used just straight RTV?

Booooooo... :teehee: I think those pups are cute and sweet,, I've had two through the years,, one blond Cocker, I watched get hit by a car when I was about 9 or 10. His name was Biscuit and looked alot like your permed eared pooch.. The other was all black and was a OK dog. He was a terror to my brother (I think he used to tease him to much) There just dumb dogs in my eyes. Stubborn and duhhh.. I'm not knocking every single one in the world, just in general. :popcorn: So...

First thing first... DSM sucks....... Not, no one way around it... Watch that crank, it loves to walk. Sorry i had to confess my love for those nightmares. As for the leak down tester. Usually the only time I really use a leak down was to find head gasket problems. I also "thought" you need the piston near the top of the compression stroke, but not TDC. I have connected my compression tester to an air compressor at ~60-70 psi to see if I got any bubbles in the coolant system.. For leak down I made one with a air regulator and ball valve. It was connected like this.. male connector > ball valve > Pressure Reg > quick connect > compression tester hose > spark plug hole. Put 90 psi on the regulator, turned ball valve off and watched the regulator gauge.. All this on warm engines if possible. What are all your compression numbers?

OK... I'm flipping tired of searching through search returns... Don.. I got a hold of >>PST<<< and talked to a sells rep.. He had me the instructions to the rear sway bars UPS'd to me.. I scanned them and here they are. He told me they have only sold 4 of those rear bars. The last one was in 07 to someone in CA.. I'm pretty sure he had his "source" send me the instructions which also came with a really, really cool 9th Addition copy of "Handling- What it is and how to get it" published by Addco. I'm guessing these >>>PST<<< are the Addco ones. The book is packed with all kinds of info.. Around 100 pages of "A through analysis of handling problems, the causes and the cures, and a guide to chassis selection." Written by Roland de Marcellus Addco Industries Inc. is by the way, is in Linville, NC, less then a hour from where I live. I didnt know that.. Might have to give them a call, and run up there for a tour, or something.. Anyways. here's the instructions on how the rear bars mount. . .

Did you not do a leak down test on it?