jtdesigns

Are they "plug-n-play" for our rigs, or do you need to fiddle new connectors? One of the easiest mods I have done.. "plug 'n' play" They even come with new o-rings...

"No excuse for a name" or "The LIMO" So how much was it???? :brows:

Thats an OLDDDDD trick... I've never even seen it done, but heard of the old timers doing it in seems and such.. How old are you brdhntr? I didnt know you could get that kind of lead any more unless you get it out of an old battery.

+ + =

:agree: I didnt realize they were drilled holes .. I was thinking they were dents like hail damage.

Yes injectors are my next step.. I guess I'll be getting my second set of Precision injectors... This isn't my first rodeo,, I've replaced cap, rotor, wires, plugs, coil, tps, added two more grounds, tested cam sync sensor, cleaned TB, adjusted TV cable, replaced thermostat with mopar, and tested fuel pressure.. I don't think the tranny is causing the misfire, but the misfire is causing the shift weirdness. And I thought the GM tranny fluid was expensive.... Amsoil... :eek: :eek: :eek: I only used the GM stuff because I had some left over from changing it in my Isuzu. Its rainy here this whole week, so I doubt I'll do anything major about this yet. Don I wonder if that shield will fit a 96... ??? :hmm:

I like the lower but the upper needs to be another shade.. And thats my opinion and opinions are like well....... you know the rest...

sounds like the IAC port needs cleaning,, and the whole TB

Just put a cap on the bed and make the cab a walk through.

Test is 14 ohms across terminals. They are 19#lb injectors made by Denso They are easy to swap to the Ford orange bodied V8 injectors in Mustangs Pressure is 39 psi running The injectors are prone to leak and burn your truck down... :smart: Had it happen to an XJ The o-rings are to cheep not to change :smart: :smart: I think 5 volts turn them on/off.. I think.. If you were to hook up a light to the injector connector you'd see the light flashing when cycled... ummm that about all i have off the top of my head...

Swap to the newer double booster.. With new MC and XJ prop valve.. Delete the rear prop valve and line.

Yeah, the CEL code prolly puts it into the OBDII "limp" mode to get you home. Err, do you have a code reader? What's the code mate? AND, WTF is this in the Pub? This is a tech issue. Because it's a crappy 96 OBDII XJ?? Lot's of problemos w. them. I had one, constantly threw codes...... :D G.. CEL = Check Engine Light.. OBDII code 4-3 scanned is P300 Random Misfire. Its in the pub because its not an MJ. And yes its a crappy ol 96 XJ.. :D Think the code is from heat soaked injectors.. Theres a TSB on it somewhere floating around.. Something about some sort of sleeve is put on the #3 injector.. Thats all I got man... The limp mode describes the odd shifting, but not the complete lack of gear switching.. :wall:

take some 320 paper and lightly sand the small spots. Get you some Polyester Glazing Putty and a razor blade. Use the razor blade to spread the putty on lightly. sand smooth, prime, block, search "guide coat", fill with primer surfacer, sand til its all straight, seal, color coat, clear coat. don't make the dent bigger,,, thats just not really logical....... http://www.ehow.com/video_2200685_apply-guide-coat-car-restoration.html http://www.evercoat.com/productDetail.aspx?pID=29

First thing I'd do is pull the pan and change the filter and look for any metal that shouldn't be there. The new fluid might help too. This could be something as simple as a band adjustment to a bad PCM. As you prolly know, 96 OBDII models don't have the separate TCU modules; all tranny functions are controlled by the PCM. When you cleared the code did it function/shift completely normally? What code did you get? Yelp when I cleared the code it was good to go.. But the lights been on for the past three days. I have about 2 or 3 qrts of new GM Dextron III from another time it did it on me, and found the fluid was dark, and overfilled. Thinking the CEL has something to do with it.. When the light is on it shifts weird. When you let off gas it kinda drops in gear, and as soon as your back on the gas it immediately upshifts. I didnt think to pull the code when it was acting up though.. I guess my nexy step it pull the pan and check for 11~15 ohms on the solenoids......

Driving home from school tonight my XJ just dropped gear.. Thats exactly what it felt like just dropped into neutral. I could drop it down in first and it would go, but wouldnt change like normal at 5000 rpm. I keep getting a CEL for random misfire, so I pulled over checked fluid (OK), popped the batt cable (removed CEL), and seemed to fix it... Just wondering if anybody ever had this problem... :dunno: :hmm: :dunno:

show off...... :nanner:

All those parts are the same as whats in XJ's

:rotfl2: you are right, all the Evo owners tend to take it to a new level of snobby asshattery... /jk //true though... :rotfl2: :rotfl2: :rotfl2: :rotfl2: :rotfl2: I love you guys...... :wavey:

:help: I can't see.... 8) ahhhhh much better......

The fan is for trail use and pulls air out of the engine bay and throws it forward out the scoop. But, with the truck at highway speeds and the fan turned off, air still moves out of the engine bay through the scoop. It's opposite of what you might think. And I got the strut (singular) from the store. They just don't list what strut goes to what car or van. I bought a bunch and returned the ones that didn't work. Ohhhh you only have one strut holding your hood?? Nice I didnt even think of only putting one on a side.. I always thought you needed two.

I should have caught this before now... You need to double check where your pads set up against the knuckles.. If just one side of the pads are wearing then I'm willing to bet you have notches where the pads ride... ok... Your driving, then brake.. the pads are forced up into the knuckles where they ride, inside the caliper brackets. They wear the knuckle surface and make grooves in the knuckles. Those groves bind up the pads on one side causing extra pressure only on one side, mostly the outer side, but if the outer pads bind up then the inner side will wear. When you take the calipers off you should feel the knuckles and make sure their flat, if they have grooves then take a grinder and make them smooth. Just had to do this on my XJ,, I was wondering why the inside rotors were wearing faster then the outside. It should be equal on both pads if everything is working right.. I had real bad grooves in my knuckles, and had to use a flap wheel to take them out and smooth up the surface.. If you don't then your pad life will be cut in half, and if you don't catch it then it will eat your rotors out on one side...

hopefully by "staggered" you don't mean larger front smaller rear...cause that wouldn't work with the gear ratios available (must match). but if you meant rears stick out farther than front, :thumbsup: "Staggered" typically means wider, not taller. He should be fine if he was indeed using the word in the correct manner. The hard part is matcing the different widths and relative aspect ratios to keep overall diameter close enough to not kill the axles with different rotation rates. you are correct sir. some 22x8 with3" lip up front and some 22x10 with a 5" lip on the rear. if I did all that though I would have to fork the cash out on a blower so the ol mj can back up the look. my gvr4 just takes up so much money. but the feeling behind the wheel of it with the sweet harmony of the 3" intake feeding the evo III turbo at 21psi exhaling to the 3" turbo back exhaust all to be met with the HKS SSQ bov at each shift makes me :clapping: More DSM????...... You guys r killin me.... :shake:

Ive seen air shocks that plumb up to a valve, so all you have to pull up to a air line and pump the shocks up. Not sure who males them though.. 4th ones down in this link... http://www.shocks2springs.com/A-1%20SHOCK/SHOCK%20ABSORBERS.html

Hey Pete where'd you get those hood struts??? :teehee:

92 Eliminator, 4WD, 5Spd, Light, and sound package. 4.0L... or 89 Black Eliminator.. In my unbiased opinion