pingpong

You know when I see rebuilt engine and rear end in an ad.. I know the rig has either been abused or neglected, cause no one replaces or rebuilds good parts :eek: I have totally thrashed on my junk, and never rebuilt the engine cause it ran good, or replaced a rear cause it wasnt whining :brows:

At most a 14b is worth 500, thats what you can get a military surplus one for that is "Brand New" In the military crate. By the way that is with 4.56's and a detriot :eek: There are a couple of companies selling them all ready converted to disc brakes for 750 :hmm: So they are pretty much worth nothing used, but their parts (mainly brakes if in good condition) are wortrh a few dollars to ppl who insist on keeping drums. I donated my drum parts to a local farmer for his farm truck :nuts:

Its no worse then some parents naming their kids after cars (Mercedes, Porsche) or cities (Brooklyn)

The 14 bolt is a PIG, but it can be shaved down, and you can have the ring gear turned down as well and gain something like an additional3.5 inches. Do a search on pirate... tons of info there about how to do it, and how to build a new diff cover. As for the front 60 if its a chevy it wil have the wrong side drop, so.... give it to me :D or swap in a different t-case and make it work

I say buy it, and be the first to do a solid axle 4x conversion on it. Swap the axles over to 60's front and rear (35 spline everywhere), and the remove sheetmetal until it can clear 39.5 Iroks

I am south of the Mason -Dixon line :D I wouldn't consider my area rich :nuts: some real estate agents try and make it seem that way cause there are waterfront houses, and we have a deeded boat ramp in the subdivision :chillin:

Not sure on this.. try contacting Novak, or Advance adapters to get more info. AA is very knowledgeable, they might even have a swap book you can buy that goes int detail about it

For me finishing my link setup has come down to money.. coilovers are expensive, and so is 2.25x3/8 DOM. Making the truss isn't per say hard, but there are enough places offereing weld on kitss for that.

I just called up a local supplier and told him how long I wanted the lines... up front 26" and in the rear 35". I am not sure what lift they are for, but the fronts I can almost flex out, while in the rear no issues

If they are like mine.. they cringe when they see me hooking up the trailer.... they know when it leaves empty it is coming back with something :nuts:

Congrats man... yeah I am later then the rest. Now its time to start the 529 college fund... and see if your tax advisor can tell if they have a tax free program to build her a rig :D

HIs CJ10 is just bad @$$ he had it at one of the Annual runs a few yrs ago. I got a chance to look at that rig also a few yrs ago, and man is it nicely done.

I wonder if they make a range box kit for the 207... that would be a great canidate

That looks sweet man... no wonder you didnt answer when I called yesterday.

That was hilarious I won 2 dogs and a cat and that describes their lives perfectly :nuts:

Your house looks great. Fill dirt is normally pretty cheap. Around here you can get it delivered for 75 a load, and if you get a nice guy/hauler some will even spread it and grade it for a small few. Gravel for your drive is ussually sold by the ton... right now around 25 bucks plus delivery fee

The amc 20 is a tough axle when trussed. Warn makes a full float kit for it, also has decent gear selection

To me gear selection is partly bassed on driving style, and needs for fuel economy. Also it helps to keep your motor in the peak power range for your tires. I always say go bigger/deeper. I say 4.56's or 4.88's that way when inchitis hits you wil be set for gears

caster is suppose to be 6* or 7*, just imagine if you had an alignment done at a compotent shop how much better it would be :D

PA has been known to be hard on rigs, especially 4x4's... there is a long post somewhere on the net about ppl getting ticketed leaving PAP. For the most part your rig has to be able to pass a safety equipment inspection(lights all of them, horn, at least to rear view mirrors, good tires, tire stickout, and lastly bumper heights), but if you have a safety inspection from the state your are from and valid plates and insurance they normally let you go with a warning

You almost need to start thingking outside the box... can't find the exhaust tubing you need.. think about aluminum conduit :brows: Go to your local home improvement store and start looking around... or better yet go to your local industrial supply store... You can find all kinda of premade boxes to use as a gauge box, and ther is nothng wrong with rouging some old school gauages from a 70's camaro or trans-am (other muscles cars included, they were the only ones I could think of that had individual gauages)

Here is how I ended up buying my tow rig... Back in the summer of 05 the big three had the "employee pricing" sale. Which was a smoking deal. When I went looking for my rig.. I really didnt want a chevy, but the only 3/4and 1tons ford and dodge had on the lot all had prices in the upper 40's before special pricing and mid to upper 30's after (way to much considering they were only offering 48 month financing) Went to a chevy lot, and they didnt have much slection.. fully loaded 1ton ,dually crewcab longbeds with everything, and a work truck specail My tow rig is a stripped 3/4 ton hd long bed 4wd extended cab ( rubber mats, roll up windows, am/fm radio :D ) and I love it. Yeah its a gas 6.0 and gas mileage empty sucks (14) but towing it only drops to an avg of 12, where as the d-maxes only average 14 towing and 18 around town not much difference for 9 grand more. I have only driven my rig just shy of 15000 and my only regret is not getting the 8.1 motor instead :nuts: The d-max is a great motor, but I know more then a few ppl who have had issues.. Bacically when you start looking at 3/4 ton rigs and higher it is only a question of who you hand 40K to. BTW my rig was only 26 out the door :D

A bucnh of places I go when It gets wet require 4wd to manuever with out tearing the place up... I am not saying a 2wd truck is useless, but the 3 grand difference can ussually be negotiated away :brows: and then the question is.. getting stuck in the middle of nowhere having to get someone else to pull you out worth not paying the difference

I should be picking up a rolling chasis jig soon :brows: :nuts: so I should have some more progress coming if I can get away from the 72 hour work weeks

I like what you have done JUst go 1 tons, and call it good... I know its a lot more up front, but you won't be rebuilding it (like I am) Also link it front and rear (wish I did.. the first time) Go v-8 with a doubler (you got a good plan there, wish I did that the first build)