pingpong

I have seen that done, and it just makes you a much larger target :D I am not positive about this, but if you are not working in a Union enviroment.. they can terminate you at will, even if you are not on probation. The are only a few reasons they can't fire you for.. they are all based on age/sex/religion-ethnic background. A little bit of advice.. if you need the job... just try and lay low, and fly under the radar. By this I mean be social, just don't complain about the job to anyone you work with, also don't discuss your current discipline situation. Do just as you are suppose to, and don't try and over achieve. Often in a factory enviroment the squeeky wheel gets replaced.. not greased

Then how am I going to catch it on fire when we clearance it for bigger tires :eek: you know I have a new fire extinguisher now ;)

Things like you describe ofeten happen where I work at. The problem is the other employees are probrably pissed that you advanced so quickly and they are setting you up for failure, or you tried to hard.. and management so potential.. and they exploited you. I am assuming this is a non-union work situation and you have no choice but to accept the discipline, but if this is a union shop... get your shop steward, or area rep involved and see how far it goes. As for the amount of hours you work.. welcome to my world... Where I work at.. they often take our time off from us (allowed by contract with 16 hrs notice), tell us we have to stay over ( as long as they pay us 1.5 times and gives us a meal pay), and make us work 16 hr days :eek: (mandatory 8 hr break by contract). Mind you where I work.. we don't shut down (unless a major screw up happens and then all of the above gets thrown out the window, and you work til we tell you to go home), so this includes all holidays. I feel for you.. if you can afford to quit before you get in too deep

They don't really extend it... most of the time they just retube it. I would be skeptical of any driveshaft shop that welded tube to tube using a butt weld. That gives you 3 places for it to fail :eek:

nice... quick question.. how do you keep your engine bay so clean :nuts:

You can use dash parts from like yr XJ's as well.

YOu can clear 30's with no lift, and with longer shocks and bump stopping it does all right :brows: :nuts: For a cheap lift.. I think 2" chevy drop shackles, and a 2" poly spacer upfront will be perfect. Just make sure you install longer brake lines and longer shocks :D

is it me or is the link to it in another langauge :nuts:

If it only happens at certain speeds, and not with road conditions (ie I hit a bump) more then likely it is tires or a u-joint. just from my experience

I should have put in the fact that you leave the hub nut in place. I had an 85 XJ the serviceable bearings and it did not have cv shafts.

Depending on the quality of the wheel bearings, the size of your tires and the off set on your rims the 1 YR warranty sounds better. I fragged 2 wheel bearings on Pong in 1 month.. this was on 35's. Yeah it was a long month.. Did the VA annual run and Paragon 2 weeks apart.

To me there are a few advantages to the 8.8. One is the strength of the overall package, and the fact that they are everywhere. Also the fac t that they can be had with LSD and 4.10 form the factory. Plus they have discs. The down side is it is a c-clip axle... this can be fixed though... or left as it is. Also the width is an issue.. can be fixed by using spacers. The pumpkin needs to be welded to the tubes as well. The diff cover is thin and weak as well. The d44 is a great axle with awesome aftermarket support. The down sides are.. the price..lack of factory disc brakes. All this being said.. I ran an 8.8 in Pong on 35's and truly abused this axle.. axle is still in use under a Yj on 37's. I am geting ready to put a D44 in the Turd.. SO I will let you know how that turns out shortly :brows:

but I prefer to use a slide hammer to break loose the wheel bearing from the donor vehicle. Less chance of damaging the wheel bearing. Also beware some of the early XJ/MJ's have serviceable bearings, which are different from unit bearings

I had a problem, with blow by on an engine which was presruring the base pan... thought I was leaking from the rear seal and oil pan... ended up I was leaking from the distributor gasket. This was to the tune of 1/2qt in 40 miles.

I have to agree that Mcmaster Carr is high, and so is grainger. I have one of those bootyfab snorkels on Casper (came that way) and it is booty fabulios. I know ARB stuff is high, but do yourseld and your vehicle a favor, and buy the ARB one or just don't run one

Congrats man

Duner, That has been my experience with AA as well. The more info you give them.. the better they are able to help you. They were the ones who told me about their V-8 XJ kit moves the engine over to the passenger side, and they confirmed what I was told about the d300 and turbo 350 having clearance issues

If I wasnt given my 350 motor, and tranny I would have gone about it a different way. I would have found an early 90's 1/2 ton truck that was 4wd and wrecked. That way you get the wiring harness, trans, you would need to purchase a adapter for the t-case.. but normally not a big deal.

I don't care wether or not I bought a 13k car or a 30 k truck.. I want what I paid for. A vehicle rusting after just 2 yrs is just bad buisness. If it was a mechanical breakge (trany going bad) and they fixed it I would be happy. The problem is it is cosmetic. I guess GM doesn't care what there vehicles look like. Just to clarify things.. The bolts are painted body color, and are turning Rust brown in both doors and in the tailgate. The bolts under the hood don't look like galvanized or stainless. What also disturbed me was the custumer service reps comment that " it has to have rust through for them to replace a suspension component" That would mean that I would be driving an unsafe vehicle that was doomed to crash.

I was just talking about heat in the garage... thats crazy :nuts:

Thats what Four Wheeler says, but remember they are basically an advertising medium for all makes, so anything I read in the mags I take with a grain of salt. I have seen diesel chevy and fords on the trail, and even one or two nicely built dodges as well.. so I say hogwash.

I am kinda in the middle of doing mine. My problem is cash flow related, and the fact that the wife has put a cap on how much I can spend on Pong a year. Advance Adapters makes a nice set of mounts to swap one in. Only problem for me is it moves the engine over to the passenger side. I am runing a passenger side axle so... here in lies the pronblem as well as the fact that The combo I am running all ready has clearance issues with the driveshaft. The np203/d300/t350 combo is tight around the tranny pan and driveshaft

The d300 is a real strong case. I am going to be running it in Pong as part of a doubler. I wil be using a np203 and d300, connecting them with a Jed's Maching doubler kit. Of course it will be twin sticked, and have 32 spline outputs installed. I am running a Chevy D60 so the passenger side drop is just perfect.

I say go all out with shaved handles... then do a set of suicide doors. I know there are a few companies offering them for the other mini's out there.. might take a lil modding to make it work.. but it would defiantely finish it off.

One of the guys in the local club owns a fab shop and he just did this http://mpjai.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=6786 The cool thing about zuks.. is they are light and small. So they just rock