pingpong

I had the same issue on Pong when Pong was less modified. When rubbed on the frame.. so I went out and bought a set of spacers.. and it fixed the problem. This was back when Pong was running 3ox9.5 on no lift though

Glad that fixed it for you. I was hoping we were not going to have to rebuild the motor. BTW you free the first weekend in Feb

I take back my last statement.. I seen one zuk done with a 1.5 exo cage... but when he flopped it bent :no: so I guess it wasnt the smartest idea.

I used to help out way more then I do now. I used to be "that guy" who had anything and everything someone needed to fix their rig. I always gave the most killer deals too. Then it came to past that ppl started expecting me to fix/give parts to them :no: So unless the person who is broke on the trail or on the side of the road is actively trying to better their situation I sit back and watch and give advice. ON a side note what the Sunday school class I belong to did for the "forgotten" helpers at church was, we made them fruit baskets and gave them to them the weekend before Christmas. I totally believe in paying it forward when it is possible as well. All you have to do is ask Jeff about that. I think he built most of his jeep from stuff laying around in my yard...and we always worked it out :cheers:

Its amazing when I hear stories about ppl getting pulled over. I drove Pong with No doors and no inspection around for months before I took it off the road. I drove the Turd as well till I started wheeling it to work everyday, with no inspection and obvious mods.. never got pulled over. :huh???: BTW your rig is way better shape then anything I have driven on the road that was a jeep :eek:

I am going to say NO. Only reason is... I have never known anyone to build one out of 1.5 x 1/8 for a cage. All the cages I have seen have been built out of 1.75 by 1/8.

I have seen and owned both rough country and rusty's control arms. As far as I can tell they are exactly the same just painted different colors. No I didnt go out and buy the parts, but they were acquired from parts trucks, or running rigs I still own. I have a set of rough country coils in the front of the turd... and they are stiff as hell. Also ran a set of Rusty's coils in Pong. They flexed great, and had no unussual issues with them. I bought them used.. so I wasnt really going to be out much if they didnt perform the way I wanted them to.

To me the solution would be to remove the added x-member brace.... and put the bracket where it is suppose to be. :nuts: To have a different set of arms made up would add considerable expense to the kit.

I ordered mine from Adam and he told me it wouldnt work, and then him and I got discussing it, and both of us broke out tape measures to figure out why... then when we figured out the holes and the x-member thing I had to do. If I remember right... the holes for the x-member on the MJ are bolted to the frame with 2 bolts. I guess you can remove the mount. As for the brake and fuel lines.. what do you expect.

X2 As for welders I think everyone needs a stick welder. :nuts: With a lil practice and time you will learn what rods do what and what sizes to keep on hand. As for voltage.. get the 230 one, and make yourself a 230 extension cord that you keep with the welder. The only reason why I say this is some 115 welders make pretty beads, but don't give the penetration. Also whats the point of having a welder.. if you are still going to take it to the pro's.

I would say Motion's set up. I am running the RK 3 link on one of my xj's and I really like how it performs

RE makes a quality product. My only issue is.. that it is a radias arm setup, and they have there own unique handing issues.

Almost any tire can be made to "fit". I went to a small camp ground this summer and they had a xj beater running 35's with no lift :nuts: It also had a lot of sheetmetal missing :huh???:

Almost seems that you would have been better off buying a later model axle in better shape. Older Knuckles bolt onto newer axles :smart: so no need to worry about the brakes :brows:

So whats the plan for it... d60's rockwells... supercharged v-8 :huh???:

Thats awesome citizens fight back. Just imagine walking with poo poo in your pants :???:

To some ppl that is wheeling. But back ont topic... I think the welder and locker is the way to go. But if you are dead set on using a selectable locker in the rear, I think that is a mistake.. I would want one in the front, and a lunch box one in the rear.

I ran into some similar issues on my XJ install, but mine was cause of the PukeGoat in the rig. I ended up having to cut up 2 x-members to make one and mount in the rear most holes. By the looks of it you have your mounts in the front holes. I had an install issue, and I talked to Jeremy (from rk) and he walked me through the problem. Also Adam at Motion was very helpful in the sale and customer service side.

I know a couple of ppl who had the CV shaft fornt axles.. and they either broke or they replaced them before they broke.

I would also say the brakes, and the unit bearings. Keep the old ones for trail spares. The axle seals mean having the guy pull the gears and they are kinda a PITA, so unless they are leaking I wouldnt mess with them.

Used XJ d30 with 4.10's should cost around 100-200. To buy the gears 125 and install kit 105, plus labor to install them. So buying the axle with the gear you want is adviseable in this situation. Also the 8.8 can be found in 4.10's with a LSD their prices range from 150 on up... but don't pay more then 350 if you ask me, and that is if it is in GREAT conditon.

By the way it sounds.. you have it figured out. Now it is just a matter of mating it up. I also thought that upgrading the planateries was available through JB conversions. They did something with the dodge case and jeep cases if I remember right. Still early in the morning...just got off work.

I suggest calling a custom spring maker like Alcan or Deaver. While that might be more expensive they build a quality product. I have them on my trail truggy.

Jeff my garage is 20x20 :eek: at least till we find a piece of land and build our next house. Couple of things I would have done in the garage whiule it is being wired. You want a seperate 100 amp panel in there. You will also want a 5o amp line off of that panel to power your welder :yes: also a 30 amp one for the air compressor :idea: Keep in mind all outlets should be at least waist high. also if you can.. if you sheet rock the garage spec out fire resistant stuff. While you are dreaming.. have the contractor pour a concrete pad in front of the garage, that way you can work on stuff outside on preety days. Another thing on the concrete in the garage... see if you can spec the crete. You want 6000psi with the fiberglass in it.. as well as the mesh. I would recommend at least 6" thick... preferably 8"-10". That will help prevent the floor from caracking especially if your rig sits in one spot for a while.

X2 I'm on 35's at about 6".....you need more than "trimming" in the front, trust me. I've trimmed, and rub just pulling in/out of my driveway :rotfl2: Next step for me is to pull the flares and cut the fenders up to the flare line. Reinstalling the flares is an option I haven't decided on yet. Jeff Hey I will trade you some at's or mt's for them 35's you have. As for why run the bigger tire.... well they are bigger :smart: :dunno: Some times it only takes an inch to make a difference. If you want to keep the uncut look and remain with intact fenders.. don't go to 35's. All the same proper bumpstopping can and does prevent fender rubbing. You just have to decide do you want up travel.. or fenders :???: