Geonovast

Yeah, you can put a spacer between the crossmember and the framerail, which is essentially a T-case drop kit. I would still keep an eye out for the AX-15 crossmember. It seems odd that they're so hard to find, even though the AX-15 was used in the XJ for a decade...And I'm 95% sure the NV3550 uses the same crossmember as the AX-15.

Must be. When I get new ones I'm definitely putting loctite on them.

Just the spark. It would be impossible for the motor to run if the distributor spun at a different speed than the cam.

There's no mechanical advance. It's all electronic.

Nope, they eventually got rid of the CAD anyway starting in 91.

Permanently locking the CAD: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=18415

You don't have to worry about the trans not lasting long, because it won't bolt up. Besides, you need waaaay more than just the motor. The wiring, cooling, and vacuum system is different between the 4 and the 6. Along with almost everything else in the engine bay. Really, your best option is to find a good running 2.5 to just replace yours with. A 4.0 conversion is a lot of work, and a lot of time.

This is my ballpark as well. Though for the $350 I'd be looking for it to have usable drums, and bolt-in-able with a little clean up, and maybe some brake parts (other than the drums). The typical MJ44, needing a full brake rebuild, and those expensive drums is worth about $250 to me. (yeah, I've seen them out there for three times that price too). I've seen people wanting $700 for D35s...

Depends on quite a bit. By 'short bed' do you mean a swb MJ, or just the bed itself? There are literally hundreds of things that affect condition and determine the price. I would feel comfortable paying $200 - $350 for a factory MJ D44 in good shape depending on gearing.

84-96 4 door XJ doors directly fit. 2 doors will not, they are way too long.

Yeah, the two that go in from the bottom of the gate into the latch. I'm still baffled as to how they went missing.

I don't know how, but both of those stupid things managed to jump ship. The gate still latches, but I'm leary of opening it, and only do so when I have to. The hardware stores around here suck and I haven't been able to find a bolt even close.

That the Mopar Performance filter?

My bookmark goes to http://www.comancheclub.com, it goes to that webring thing.

:dunno: Immune to poison ivy.

Taking the bed off to do the fuel pump is extreme ridiculous overkill. The easiest way to do it is to drop the tank, plop it on the tailgate, and go from there. If you're thinking to yourself that you don't want to drop the tank, consider that dropping the gas tank is step #1 to removing the bed. Not to mention that I can almost guarantee you'll snap at least half of the studs holding the bed on. That, and getting them back on lined up properly isn't all that fun.

The CPS has to see a certain speed before the ECU will turn on spark. The starter may just not be spinning it fast enough.

Jim, no that's not mine. Just a random picture from the interwebs.

I'm starting to think I should install a dash camera in the XJ just for days like today. The wife decided to drag me out to do some grocery shopping, and she couldn't have had better timing. About 1/8 of a mile up the road after we left, I see something red, white, and very shiny coming up in the rear view mirror. I about $h!t myself when I realized what it was. It was one of these, but completely restored to the point it would make you cry just from looking at it. Even if he saw the CC sticker on the back window, I fear he's one of those old school Jeep guys who don't even consider MJs to be real enough to pay attention to.

Your confusion is understandable. Vehicles don't use a bushing and a bearing.. they have one or the other. The 87-91 4.0s used a bearing that was pressed inside of a sleeve, which isn't a bushing. When you do your swap, you need to pull both out(they probably won't come out together). And replace them with the 74 CJ 304 bushing(or bearing)

It's actually a stud, and I've seen more of them broken off than just missing.

Hey - I'm amazed they put sticks in the Libertys at all.

Any of my fellow veterans remember that ebay link awhile ago with the guy that had the 88, who insisted that the 88 was the last year for the MJ, so he was asking a fortune for it. Even being confronted about it by multiple people, he would not budge?

I'd say it's more than likely. After all, I've seen people argue that there's no difference between the AX-15/NV3550 crossmember and the other one.

Oh, you want the BOLT. They're not studs. The way you initially asked, I read as you wanted the stub shaft that attaches to the U-joint and goes inside the bearing.