Geonovast

You can still run a virtual machine, get VMware. It's free. Then you can install the XP you have inside the virtual machine, like you would a fresh install on a harddrive. The XP mode in Win 7 is just nice because it can run in the background and let you run XP programs seemlessly in Win7 (theoretically, in my experience it doesn't work for $#!^).

What version of 7? If you don't have Starter or Home Premium, you should be able to use Win XP mode. This is basically a special virtual machine that lets you run the XP programs in 7. If you do have one that doesn't support Win XP mode, you can just download an install a virtual machine, and run XP on that.

Won't a 231's input shaft swap into that 242? Seems like it would be a lot less hassle to find 23 spline input for the 242.

Rob, but he wants a 4 speed. Probably not something the dealer's hanging onto. When I picked up my first MJ, which had an AX-4, it had a 5 speed knob on it. I was told it was all the dealer had to replace it, and this was 6 or so years ago.

Timing cannot be adjusted. Do the tune up, and see if that helps, but trying to die during idle is commonly a dirty IAC. You need a 4wd AX-4 or AX-5. You cannot swap out the tail housing, the output shaft is also different. AX-15 is possible, but beyond practical for the amount of work needed to put it in. Plenty of AX-4/5s out there, and they're strong enough for the 2.5.

Those 3.07s certainly aren't helping your power issues, but if everything was working correctly, it should be downshifting a lot sooner with those things. I would get at least 3.55s in there as soon as possible.

TPS out of whack?

Why not? The Vendors subforum of the classifieds only has 5 threads in it.

Trans ID: http://comancheclub.com/topic/11104-how-to-tell-whether-you-have-an-ax-15-or-a-ba105-5spd-trans/ Both the BA 10/5 and AX-15 have issues with reverse, especially when it's cold. Double clutching can help. Also, check your fluid quality and level. Some have reported that higher-end fluids will eliminate the problem altogether (crap/low fluid in your trans can also affect mileage).

Well, larger tires will affect it by a percentage, not a set amount. Those tires are about 10% bigger than your old ones, so at 30 mph with the old ones, you're doing 33 with the new ones, and 60 old will be 66 new. So, if your odometer says you went 100 miles, you actually went 110. This is all assuming your speedo was dead on in the first place, which they never are. It certainly won't account for all the decrease in your mileage, but it is a decent part. Your axle gearing is junk to begin with, the 3.07s really don't like bigger tires on them.

Right when my wife and I got together, I told her the answer to the "Jeep vs Me" ultimatum would be the Jeeps. She was fine with that. When the baby came to be, we just got an XJ. Since your lady is looking for a Jeep herself, I don't think it'll be an issue. Congrats. :cheers:

Those bigger tires are also throwing off your speedometer, which is going to affect the numbers as well. Which 5 speed do you have? 89 was the transition year.

I don't think it would be unreasonable to separate the DIY section into Mods/Repairs/Tools.

I don't think there's an HP 8.25. I don't recall ever seeing an HP rear axle.

They are NOT directly swappable. The ZJ uses control arms and coils out back, the MJ has leaf springs. You would need to cut off all the ZJ bracketry and weld on MJ spring perches. This is your best bet. You cannot just swap out gears and call it good. Gearsets must be meticulously set up, which is a difficult and expensive process for new gears; it's never a good idea to put used gears in a different housing. Swapping the entire axle will be annoying, but could be done for free/cheap if you are a good welder, or know one.

If you're keeping it as cheap as possible, then the front won't do you any good anyway. If it's 3.55, which it most likely is, it's not going to match your 3.07 rear. Although, in my experience, it's hard to even give away a 3.07 D30. So you may be able to find one easily for next to nothing, and if it's from an 87-99 XJ or 87-92 MJ, it'll be a HP.

^ that. A ZJ isn't an ideal donor for a 4wd swap. Front axle is swappable, but being an LP, it's not the best choice. If that shaft's been out for awhile, you may have other issues. Who knows how long it's been dumping fluid, or what kind of crap has gotten in there. The rear axles are not going to work for you, and that front isn't going to match your rear anyway. Unless that ZJ is insanely rare with a 5 speed, you're looking at an auto swap (if it's a 4.0) with an electrical harness that wasn't made for an XJ/MJ. I'm not 100%, but I believe the shift linkages will also be useless to you. About the only use you're going to get out of that thing is the front driveshaft and T-case.

...the damn alternator dies with 10 minutes warning an hour before you have a job interview, despite the vehicle giving you no problems in 2 years

Wobble extension, u-joint, or shorty wrench may be your friend for this one.

Yes, all Comanches rolled out of the factory SUA. going SOA nets a lot of lift, so unless you're looking at spending a ton of money to match the front properly, it's not the best bet. There are AAL kits, pack replacement kits(I believe anyway, I don't think Hellcreek were the only ones, but I may be mistaken), and shackle options if you want just a slight bump. Front suspension is no different between XJ/MJ and 2wd/4wd. Swapping front axles will be a breeze, just make sure all the brake hardware stays with the axle. Many different generations for brakes, and your 2wd calipers will not work with the D30's brakes.

I'll tackle what I can, as parts of your post were a bit confusing. Yes, 231s were used behind the 2.5, but the one you have from a 94 4.0 will not bolt to a 2.5's transmission. The 231 you have will be a 23 spline input, the AX-4/5 has a 21 spline output... you can use your T-case, but you'll need to swap the input shaft for a long 21 spline. Going SOA on your rear axle is going to net you closer to 6 inches above what you have now. ANY rear lift out of an XJ will be essentially worthless to you. If you're planning to go on the cheap, SOA is not a realistic option. Your rear should be geared 3.55. Finding a D30 to match that will be easy, as it's the most common gearing in our axles. A 4.0/auto or 2.5/4 speed will have 3.55. The AX-4 and AX-5, with the exception of the AX-4 not having 5th gear, are identical transmissions. Your clutch will work with any AX-5, and your slave will work with any internal slave AX-5. What year is the AX-5? Now's a good time to upgrade to an external slave. Best bet for your rear driveshaft(not axle, please be careful with those, I had to read that section three times before I figured out what you meant) is to have yours shortened. It's much cheaper than extending the XJ's shaft, and finding a factory MJ one will be near impossible.

:bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown:

:drool: :drool: :drool: :drool:

27 spline is still better than a D35. Shafts are comparable, but the housing and tubes are a lot beefier... plus, if he ever wants to change gearing, he can easily upgrade to the 29 spline carrier and shafts without changing out the whole axle.