Geonovast

Why do you need to change the rear axle?

I think it certainly helps that even though it only sported a 7 year production run that ended 20 years ago, there's a huge pool of parts spanning decades and a large handful of other vehicles, with direct bolt on parts as new as 06.

Width isn't different, but XJ shackles are much shorter than MJ ones.

That's unfortunate, given the cast list. But the description makes me not want to even bother. Certainly wouldn't have paid theater prices for something like that. It's sporting a 5.6/10 on IMDb, which says something, since even terrible movies usually have at least a 7.

And here I thought I could use it on my, you know, computer. Remember those? Had to crop a bit, but it's now on my Nook. :thumbsup:

What we're saying is it's no different than driving a Jeep in 2wd with the front axle locked - which people do.

The only difference between full time and part time is that full time allows the driveshafts to spin at different speeds. The T-case doesn't care what the rest of the axle is doing... locking the front or rear would have no different effect than with part time.

My family's had 3 XJs that had 231s, and came with the additional skid plate. One of them even had a front skid plate. That plate was an option, but had nothing to do with what T-case was in it.

And welcome! That's a good looking truck, hopefully we can help you keep it that way.

At sea level, you're going to want the standard one. I doubt it'll run correctly 5* advanced.

I used to have the same problem with my pukies. If it was cold enough to where double clutching wouldn't do the trick, I just ran it up a bit higher in 1st, then went to 3rd. It dogged a bit, but wasted less time than dealing with 2nd.

The truck is sitting in Beaver Dam, WI.

I've finally spoken to him, and he has several concerns about repair. I don't know if he's actually going to get any addition pictures or not, but he's already got a few XJs he's ready to go look at. I've at least got him sold on buying it back from the insurance company. Hopefully its sacrifice can save another XJ. I really don't wanna see it go to a yard. It's astounding it's in as good a shape as it is, he didn't mention what he hit, but apparently it was torn up enough to have an axle removed from the vehicle. Thanks for the input guys, I really really wish I could see it up close, but it's 600 miles away.

He's proving difficult to get on the phone. I'm going to see if he can pop the hood, get some inside pics, and some underneath pics. I know it's hard to assess body damage from pics, but I wanted to see what you guys thought before talking to him about it. Since a good number of you think it's doable, I'll push him to get it fixed. If you guys had said it wasn't worth it, it would be a different story. He's already looking at different XJs, but he's been happy with this one for a number of years, and I'd like to keep him in it/an XJ on the road.

My dad was in a wreck last week. He's fine, but he's looking at totaling out his XJ, which I would like to talk him out of doing if some new parts would fix his XJ. Unfortunately I can't go look at it personally, so I was hoping to get the opinions of you experts to see if fixing it is worth pursuing.

Pull the shifter out, and see where the linkages are. I somehow, still don't know how this happened, got an AX-5 stuck in 5th with the shifter arm only able to go in the 1-2 and 3-4 sliders. I was able to pop it out of gear by putting the shifter into 3rd, moving it halfway over to 5th (so the arm was in both sliders), and was able to pull them both back into neutral. Trans worked fine after that.

Why the %^*& do you have more snow than me?

Seems like you'd be better off just replacing the 231.

Last time I replaced the oil pan gasket, I had issues getting the stupid thing to stay in place when bolting it up. Shortly afterword, however, I was given some advice that would have helped tremendously. Get a couple small zip ties, and using 6 - 8 of them, tie the gasket to the pan. Lift it up to the truck, get all the bolts in that aren't blocked by the ties, then cut the ties, pull them out, and put the last bolts in. They don't necessarily seal any better, but they're less messy to install, easy to remove, and reusable.

I took a C course about a year ago, and thought it was quite enjoyable. I never got too far into it, just did some basic win32 console programs that didn't do much, other than a little battleship type game. Once I get settled in a job that's actually using my degree, I'd like to take some more advanced classes.

There's no probably about it. You WILL break something, and it will be the most expensive part in the system. That, and it would be nothing short of a miracle that the stupid thing would be the exact, perfect length you would need it to even bolt in.

:rotf: How much more for a rusty tailgate?

There's probably not too many write-ups because it's fairly straightforward. You can even get pre-assembled and bled master/line/slaves for the stupid things. Putting the transmission itself in is no different than an internal slave.

I'm curious as to what interferes to the point that the Renix intake won't work with an HO exhaust manifold. This is the first I've heard of it. Only other issue I know of is the EGR system has to be plugged and bypassed.