Geonovast

He'd need to do a full AX-15 swap. BA 10/5 was never external.

Have you actually checked the spark with a plug out of the head and grounding it to the block? How old are the wires? What's the condition of the ground strap on the back of the head?

Why are you assuming it has nothing to do with spark? What's your fuel pressure?

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The AW-4 should be able to handle a stroker just fine. You drivetrain concern should be with your rear axle. I've been on this forum for over 5 years, and I haven't seen a single post about someone snapping a 21 spline trans output shaft/ t-case input.

I'm not sure on the D30, but for the back, there were only 3 sets of brakes used. The 10 x 1.75 on the D35 84-89, the 10 x 2.25 used on the D44, and the 9 x 2.25 used on the 90-01 D35 and all the 8.25s.

There is no way to look at the innards without pulling the case off the midplate... and it's not that bad. I think there's 12 or 14 bolts holding the case together, and to get the front case off, you'll need to pop the bearing retainer off (sounds like it's leaking anyway and needs a gasket), and remove the o-rings on the bearings.

Matching an SOA for the front takes a lot more than coils. Going that high requires replacing/upgrading almost every part of your front suspension, and to do it right (don't do it wrong), it gets costly.

If there were no metal shaving when you pulled the drain plug you should be fine. When you do the motor, I would pull the trans out with it and pop it apart to take a look inside.

http://comancheclub.com/topic/11104-how-to-tell-whether-you-have-an-ax-15-or-a-ba105-5spd-trans/ This will tell you how to tell which one you have.

The fluid change killing the trans is a concern with the AW-4, not the manuals. However, what oil you use depends on which transmission you have. Being an 89 4.0, you could have either the BA 10/5 or AX-15, which one ya got?

They can be swapped, but the output shafts are different lengths. I've seen several people manage to just cut the shaft down without removing it on the pukey, but I don't think that's possible with the AX transmissions.

I like it, but I wonder what the back grill looks like...

1. AFAIK, yes. I don't think it would have been legal for them to sell a vehicle without a rear bumper. 2. Yes, AX-4. This means your axles will be geared with 3.55 (if original). 3. Under the carpet, behind the fender flares, frame by the cat. Some pictures would help quite a bit. :thumbsup:

The gearing differences aren't a complication. For all purposes, you can use a 4.09 axle with a 4.11 axle. 4wd isn't meant to be used on pavement, and even with perfectly matched gearing in the axle, tire diameter differences/tire pressures, and, you know, turning will cause the axles to spin at different speeds anyway. Full Time 4wd (AWD) vehicles overcome this by having a mechanism that allows the driveshafts to spin at different speeds while both being powered.

All 231s disconnect the front driveshaft. The CAD in the axle was designed to just cut down on how much was rotating(front driveshaft), in a useless effort to save fuel. It ended up just being a hassle and more stuff to fail, so it was done away with in the early 90s.

I would swap in the XJ axles (make sure you get a 3.55 speedo gear for your T-case), and call it good. Don't even think about doing an SOA unless you're sinking the money into the front for around a 6 inch lift. Lifting the truck 6-7 inches, you're going to need some big tires on there... and your 3.07 (or even 3.55) is going to not like that very much. I've driven an MJ with a 6.5" lift, 33" tires and 3.07 gears... it was a dog. Putting that 8.25 will require you to have a slightly shorter rear driveshaft without lifting.

The AW-4 doesn't like full one-shot fluid changes, you have to do it slowly, one quart at a time. You may have pissed off the trans itself. Unplug the TCU and see if you can shift it manually.

The differences come more from people rounding differently, and just assuming what the axle has. A few years ago I put together a chart of all the Jeep axles, and their actual tooth counts/unrounded ratios, but I'll be damned if I can't find it now... IIRC, when it came to the HP D30, D35, 8.25, and D44, ALL the tooth counts were the same for ALL the ratios except for with the D44, it rounded to 4.09 instead of 4.10.

Gear ratios were based on engine/trans and had nothing to do with the axle. 4.0 + 5 speed = 3.07 4.0 + auto = 3.55 2.5 + 5 speed = 4.10 2.5 + 4 speed = 3.55 2.5 + auto = 4.10 or 4.56

What kind of fuel pressure are you getting?

If you find a front axle within the same brake generation, it's not really even a hassle. Worst part is dealing with the torx bolts on the sway bar links.

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