Geonovast

:thumbsup:

Don't put those Torx back in! Run down to your favorite hardware store and buy some Grade 8 replacements. 3/8 x 16 x 2 or 2 1/2.

I think you need to re-read what Eagle said. The 231 has 2HI - 4HI - N - 4LO The 242 has 2HI - 4HI Full Time - 4HI Part Time - N - 4LO

I've used the 3M stuff specifically for auto badges. Works pretty good.

^^ Is wrooooooong.

^^ Is the best guy to buy parts from

^^ Needs an avatar.

Since we all know the D35s are junk, it'd be interesting to see what the most common fail point in them really is. Feel free to elaborate an interesting story. :clapping: Only one I've killed was behind my only 2.5. All the ones behind my 4.0s survived my abuse. :nuts:

My dad did an excellent job teaching me how to drive a stick. :dunno: Best way to find the catch point is to start out on a slight upward hill. A little harder on the clutch, but you'll learn a lot faster.

Why is the front diff in the middle? :hmm:

It's amazing how many people that trick works on. Especially when you get them believing that they have to do it over and over for the cheat/trick/whatever it is to work. :brows:

How long does it run?

It reads indentations in the flywheel to tell the ECU when the pistons are in the correct position to open the injectors and ignite the coil. If the CPS is bad, the ECU will think the motor isn't spinning, and therefore won't turn on fuel or spark = no start. You can check the resistance with a multimeter, it should read between 125 and 275 ohms.

I've never heard of one. Might wanna give a Georgia DMV a call to see what that's supposed to mean.

I picked up a grease gun(I've needed one anyway for a long time). If that doesn't work I'll try the chisel. What I don't get is why this motor has the smaller pilot bushing. I thought they'd changed after 90.. However, it does explain the weird chattering noise I was getting when I would push in the clutch on my 4.0 MJ. The motor probably had the larger size, and the trans(that came from the motor going into my Brother's XJ), has the smaller. :wall:

:rotf: What really sucks about this, was the guy at the parts store we bought his new clutch at was looking for a head, but I don't know if I would trust this head at all.

ECU taking over the trans was 96 or 97, not 91. The 91+ TCU is different from the Renix one.

Yeah, and the best part is, if he ever tries to sell it chances are the buyer won't find the bondo since Ive never seen anyone check a piston for bondo with a magnet. :eek: How could they anyway? Pistons are aluminum. :hmm:

Back in November, my brother's GF was driving his 98 XJ up into town to get some things for his birthday party, and the motor seized on her. Luckily it was only about 2 miles from their house. I ran out there, couldn't even turn it with a ratchet, so I bumpercar'd it back to his house. Earlier today I was finally able to open up that motor and see what happened. Got it on a stand, flipped it upside down, pulled the pan off, and was greeted with this. I'll switch to a better pic when his GF gets back and I can upload from her camera.

I put 4.0 springs on my 2.5 and it lifted the front about 1.5"

Eesh, that sounds fun. How fast were you going? Reminds me of when the track bar balljoint fell out of the bracket on my 2.5 at 70mph, 3 1/2 hours from home. Worst Death Wobble I ever had.

I can't stand ABS. None of my Jeeps have had it... except my new 99 does. I'm starting to think the vibration during braking is being cause by it.

91 MJ 4.0 5 speed - never got around to checking, but I would guess about 16. 91 MJ 2.5 5 speed on 3.55s - Last time I did checks on a 560 mile trip, they ranged from 16 to 23.... But there's something wrong with it. 88 XJ 4.0 Auto - was getting 26 before I swapped the motor, now it's getting 18.5 :wall: 99 XJ 4.0 Auto - 17.5

We miss ya in chat Pete.. :typing:

I imagine you should be able to turn around and sell that trans for $100.