Geonovast

Know where that is? The blinker unit, or the switch itself in the column?

All I remember for sure is the threaded part was thicker on one of them. Don't remember if the rest of the bar was or not.

WHAT? We got like... maaaaaaaybe an inch. So not fair. Gimmie. How much did you end up getting? This morning we had here in Clinton 8-9 inches. with 3' drifts every were (that north wind was brutal) by this late afternoon all the snow on the roads were gone and everything else was down to 2-3inches. Bring on the warm weather!! 8-9 inches? Really? Did you go out there with a ruler? We didn't even get enough to cover the ground completely, and it's almost all gone now.

I honestly don't remember. :hmm:

First time I noticed this was on my brother's 98 XJ. His right turn signal functions normally. However, when he'd use his left... at first, it's fine. Then when he taps the brakes, the brake lights come on, along with the right turn signal. Even after he lets off the brakes, both sides blink until he switches the blinker off. At first I thought it was localized to his XJ, but I've noticed it on two more 97+ XJs in the last year or so while driving around. Now that I personally have a 99 XJ, I'm wondering if any of you might know what electrical bug could be causing this, and perhaps know how to fix it?

When I first went to put an 80s-era D30 on my 91 4.0, I tried to just remove the turnbuckle, and install that way so I didn't have to deal with the TRE. I found out that they were different thicknesses, so I had to swap TREs anyway.

Yes, it's rather common for the outer section to work its way forward. They're only connected with a rubber isolator. There's really no way to fix it safely, you'll need a new one.

There's an MJ in Camdenton that has them removed. I haven't gotten close, hopefully next time I see it I'll be able to stop. But from a distance, it looks ok if done properly.

incorrect. please read before you post. which part ?? The AX-15 was introduced midway in 89, and needed a 23 spline transfercase.

:wall:

Even if it's not 4.56, a matching set of 4.10 axles isn't something to pass up if you can get'm for a good price.

But... but... Torx is such an awesome idea..

WHAT? We got like... maaaaaaaybe an inch. So not fair. Gimmie.

You're morally compelled to steal it.

:wall: Last month they were made.

It wouldn't be a CC thread if it didn't get hijacked in some way or another. :shake:

I call shotgun

It's supposed to be back in the mid 60s by Tuesday though. :brows:

You could also try what deziped said. Might be easier for you in the long run. Loosen the adjuster nut on the TRE end. Pull out the bolt in the axle bracket for the trackbar. This way, you can pop the bar out of the bracket, and just spin the whole bar on the TRE. You won't need a pickle fork, or to deal with that cotter key. It'll also be a good chance to inspect the bushing on that end.

Surely you mean slip yoke eliminator? At that height, it's a good idea... but not necessary. Even shortbed MJs have enough wheelbase to not need it unless you go quite a bit higher.

^^ Busted a 2.8 today.

Certainly wouldn't hurt to check the alignment after you're done as well. Who knows if it was ever done after the lift. http://www.4x4xplor.com/alignment.html

Nope, just put it in, crank the bolt down nice and tight, and get a new cotter key in there. The hardest part of the whole procedure will probably be getting the old key out.

It's not a bushing, it's a Tie Rod End connecting the draglink to the pitman. If there's slop in that, that could definitely cause a noise. I imagine it would somehow affect your steering though. If your trackbar is shot, there's a good bet that's your noise. Get your trackbar changed out, and take it for a spin. If the noise is still there, let us know. Another good bet could be your balljoints. Get the wheels in the air, hug'm, and shake like hell to see if there's any play.

After you remove the nut in the bracket, you may need a pickle fork to get the balljoint out of the bracket. If it's been recently installed, you might not need one. Just don't bang on the trackbar too much, you don't want to bend it.