Drahcir495

https://www.facebook.com/share/RB5dQ8szWLPScqtT/?mibextid=79PoIi

Nice shiny new looking axle

I’ve been thinking that I might go back to having the CB mounted in the center console -> I am not positive that I am going to, but I decided to take the cut out cubbie from the console. Didn’t care about this one because it has the two holes for the round locker switches cut into it -> I didn’t even realize that it was possible to remove this piece until recently. I ground out the melted plastic welding spots holding it in on with 4 tabs -> Now I have the option to use it or just find another place for the CB. Took out the emergency brake block off piece while I was at it. TBC -Rich

Very good points.

love this - A lot of good here

Welcome to the cub. I’ve said this before, a lot of knowledgeable people here always willing to help. What a nice looking Jeep. Yes! More pictures

Glad you are sharing this build up with us. It looks nice from the pictures.

Hey CheapComanche. Not that it makes a difference (axles have pretty much the same set-up process) what axle are you working on? Having a loose pinion is obviously not good. A few things could’ve happened to cause this but the “why” is not important now. The only problem with just tightening the nut back down is the pinion is set to a certain preload. This is achieved with the use of a crush sleeve in the set up process. You are just going to get it close as best you can. Here is what I suggest doing, but start budgeting for a bearing overhaul at the minimum. Take off the pinion nut and clean the treads with brake clean. Put red locktite inside of the nut and run it down until the play is out of it. Then bump the nut and keep an eye on it. Not really much you can do at this point. If you are close to The Tampa Bay area I could help you rebuild the axle. Hope that helps.

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I wasn’t able to sleep last night so I was up until 2:30 working on my build-up page. I entered in links to every page and what’s on them . Insomnia has created a monster I hope it works -> https://comancheclub.com/topic/7615-drahcir495s-build-up/#

https://comancheclub.com/topic/7615-drahcir495s-build-up/page/4/#comments https://comancheclub.com/topic/7615-drahcir495s-build-up/page/19/ https://comancheclub.com/topic/7615-drahcir495s-build-up/page/19/# https://comancheclub.com/topic/7615-drahcir495s-build-up/page/18/# https://comancheclub.com/topic/7615-drahcir495s-build-up/page/2/#

My Scrambler has the AMC 20 in the rear and when I put on the OX cover on I obviously had to drain the fluid. When I put in the expensive lube in it didn’t just leak out it drained out. Took out the axle -> Then I cut off the retainer and the bearing cage with a Dremel tool -> I was then able to press off the rest of the bearing and remove the outer seal. Looking at the seal I saw why the leak is so bad -> I already have the new outer seal, so just waiting to get in the bearing, retainer and inner seal. TBC - Rich

Got my DirtBound off-road battery tray painted up today. It is shipped raw metal, so needed to be painted. It’s been miserably cold out - in the 40’s . It’s finally 80* out, so I was able to get several coats of paint on and knock out this project -> It’s as nice as the JCR off-road tray, but at a better price.

Got to work on getting an MJ back on the road->

Wow - very nice.

I’ve had these for about 5 years and they are still working great. No fogging of lenses like I’ve seen on others -> Limited-time deal: Partsam 2PCS Rectangle H6054 LED Headlights 5x7 7x6 Headlamp Hi/Low Sealed Beam H4 9003 Plug 6054 H5054 Compatible with S10 Blazer Express Van/Wrangler YJ XJ Cherokee Truck Van https://a.co/d/1UvIC31 I also made my own harness and it really made a difference.

Schardein - thank you. I never thought of looking for one in the junkyard!

I already deleted out the egr. I have heard both sides of keeping or removing it. Finally, on advice from a local Jeep guru, I eliminated it. Haven’t a clue if it helped or hurt?

Thank you salvagedcircut . Very helpful pictures and advice. I will be looking into this more. I don’t mind spending the money if I only have to do this once.

How bad is the front differential leaking from the seal? You may be able to check and top it off as you go, but it sounds like it’s in pretty bad shape. Now when you go to replace it you need to make sure the pinion nut is put in the same spot. There is a crush sleeve in between the inner and outer bearings that is set at at certain preload to protect the bearings from failure. We replace these all the time, so you can definitely do this. Here are some tips to make sure you get it done without any issues. Wow, this could be a little long . I don’t know what tools you will be able use/have on hand, so you maybe have to improvise. Important to make sure you get the nut in the same spot it came off in as stated above. Here is what you need to make sure it goes back to its position on the pinion. We use a dremill to make a mark on the pinion and into the nut. This way you can match it up.m to the right spot reinstalling it. Make sure you count the threads that are showing above the nut. Very important. Obviously you will have to take the nut and yolk off lol. When that’s done take care not to scratch/gouge the seal surface when you remove the seal. Let the gear oil drain from the front of the diff. Replace seal and use some rtv to the inner diameter if possible. It’s just a bit more insurance. Reassembly - clean the threads on the pinion and the inside of the yolk with brake clean. Use rtv inside of the yolk - this prevent the gear lube from seeping out. Be Sure to use red locktite inside the nut so it won’t back off. Don’t forget the washer if it had one. Tighten the nut back on to the same exposed thread count and the mark on the nut and pinion match up. Whew - that was a lot to follow along to. Top off with gear oil and you should be good

I don’t know anything about stainless but is there a difference in thickness compared to the steel I would question. I’m going to paint it regardless of material. It’s 60$+ difference in price compared to the Dorman brand. I does have good reviews on Amazon.

Has anyone tried this brand of header - Amazon JDMSPEED New Stainless Steel Exhaust Manifold & Gasket Kit Replacement for Grand Cherokee Wrangler 4.0L Replacement for Jeeps Select 1991-1999 (4.0L Engine Only) Replaces 33007072, 4883385 https://a.co/d/3tU2cqt ? It is stainless steel and is under $100. My engine is out of a 1998 XJ, so this would be the type needed to work on this block.

How does the original air duct work match up with the newer dash? Looking at your dash picture and just got me curious.

I haven’t seen a different MJ in years. The only one I’ve seen around is the one here because it won’t start ->

You will be pleased with how well it turns out. I also can’t wait to see it it finished