Drahcir495

My Scrambler has the AMC 20 in the rear and when I put on the OX cover on I obviously had to drain the fluid. When I put in the expensive lube in it didn’t just leak out it drained out. Took out the axle -> Then I cut off the retainer and the bearing cage with a Dremel tool -> I was then able to press off the rest of the bearing and remove the outer seal. Looking at the seal I saw why the leak is so bad -> I already have the new outer seal, so just waiting to get in the bearing, retainer and inner seal. TBC - Rich

Got my DirtBound off-road battery tray painted up today. It is shipped raw metal, so needed to be painted. It’s been miserably cold out - in the 40’s . It’s finally 80* out, so I was able to get several coats of paint on and knock out this project -> It’s as nice as the JCR off-road tray, but at a better price.

Got to work on getting an MJ back on the road->

Wow - very nice.

I’ve had these for about 5 years and they are still working great. No fogging of lenses like I’ve seen on others -> Limited-time deal: Partsam 2PCS Rectangle H6054 LED Headlights 5x7 7x6 Headlamp Hi/Low Sealed Beam H4 9003 Plug 6054 H5054 Compatible with S10 Blazer Express Van/Wrangler YJ XJ Cherokee Truck Van https://a.co/d/1UvIC31 I also made my own harness and it really made a difference.

Schardein - thank you. I never thought of looking for one in the junkyard!

I already deleted out the egr. I have heard both sides of keeping or removing it. Finally, on advice from a local Jeep guru, I eliminated it. Haven’t a clue if it helped or hurt?

Thank you salvagedcircut . Very helpful pictures and advice. I will be looking into this more. I don’t mind spending the money if I only have to do this once.

How bad is the front differential leaking from the seal? You may be able to check and top it off as you go, but it sounds like it’s in pretty bad shape. Now when you go to replace it you need to make sure the pinion nut is put in the same spot. There is a crush sleeve in between the inner and outer bearings that is set at at certain preload to protect the bearings from failure. We replace these all the time, so you can definitely do this. Here are some tips to make sure you get it done without any issues. Wow, this could be a little long . I don’t know what tools you will be able use/have on hand, so you maybe have to improvise. Important to make sure you get the nut in the same spot it came off in as stated above. Here is what you need to make sure it goes back to its position on the pinion. We use a dremill to make a mark on the pinion and into the nut. This way you can match it up.m to the right spot reinstalling it. Make sure you count the threads that are showing above the nut. Very important. Obviously you will have to take the nut and yolk off lol. When that’s done take care not to scratch/gouge the seal surface when you remove the seal. Let the gear oil drain from the front of the diff. Replace seal and use some rtv to the inner diameter if possible. It’s just a bit more insurance. Reassembly - clean the threads on the pinion and the inside of the yolk with brake clean. Use rtv inside of the yolk - this prevent the gear lube from seeping out. Be Sure to use red locktite inside the nut so it won’t back off. Don’t forget the washer if it had one. Tighten the nut back on to the same exposed thread count and the mark on the nut and pinion match up. Whew - that was a lot to follow along to. Top off with gear oil and you should be good

I don’t know anything about stainless but is there a difference in thickness compared to the steel I would question. I’m going to paint it regardless of material. It’s 60$+ difference in price compared to the Dorman brand. I does have good reviews on Amazon.

Has anyone tried this brand of header - Amazon JDMSPEED New Stainless Steel Exhaust Manifold & Gasket Kit Replacement for Grand Cherokee Wrangler 4.0L Replacement for Jeeps Select 1991-1999 (4.0L Engine Only) Replaces 33007072, 4883385 https://a.co/d/3tU2cqt ? It is stainless steel and is under $100. My engine is out of a 1998 XJ, so this would be the type needed to work on this block.

How does the original air duct work match up with the newer dash? Looking at your dash picture and just got me curious.

I haven’t seen a different MJ in years. The only one I’ve seen around is the one here because it won’t start ->

You will be pleased with how well it turns out. I also can’t wait to see it it finished

We recommend changing the fluid every 30k miles. And yes, I’ve seen a Lot worse too.

Hooray! Congratulations on MJOTM I will have to check out your build up to see how you put in electric windows.

That would look great! Love the blue interior in mine. I use SEM shadow blue on anything not already blue. Matches up nicely if that helps choosing.

Like this

Awesome write up . I will be working from this in the future for sure.

Nice looking truck though

That’s great . Thank you

Took the passenger seat out of the truck and brought it home. Cleaned the seat and then taped up the bottom to ensure it wouldn’t catch any over spray. Then I used the Shadow Blue SEM paint to bring it back to life (can see my solution to get the seat to tilt )-> Started with the back before I tackled the front. Forgot about it, so it was baking in the sun for awhile -> The before -> Then after -> I love the SEM products

Nice looking but the rear needs to match the front. You have to get closer to the cost of a new bronco to get me to think of selling mine. Just love my truck that much again.

I love the Manchee tag . I really like the direction you’re going with this. I thought I read you’re repainting the truck. Have an idea on what color you’re going with?