Alexia

Found a decent shifter with no burn marks that was nasty dirty and the sliders would jam. The pieces can be slid out to clean them thoroughly. I was driving around with out a shifter handle. Much better now! My rare find! RockinMJ was asking me about proportioning valves and I said I would go to the junk yard to grab him the correct one for his conversion. That led me to scoring a set of rare 1997 only AB model cruise control switches I needed on a Jeep that just arrived in the yard. They came from the same Jeep as the shifter bezel. I cleaned up the switch portion and swapped nice button plates from a pristine pair of switches. Cruise control turns on now, but still does not work due to a vacuum leak.

I paid $1,300 for mine with 1,000 miles on them. More than I wanted to pay, but the 2013 variety is rare on Craigslist and will get $1,000+ prices. I can pick up the older 2007-2012 Rubicon style rims with 90%+ tread tires for $500 to $1,000.

The stock 32" JK BFG M/T DT tire works great with minor rubbing at full steering lock. Using control arms that have a slight inward curve solves the issue easily for 32" tires at least.

I have been gone the entire past week! :D I did hit 500 miles in it so it is in the garage until I change the fluids. Most of my computers are broken or busted in some way so I am diverting funds towards building a new computer.

Good condition rear Comanche bumpers are a gold mine.

The same way they are installed on steel yokes. Yoke in, caps from the outside. When pressing the u-joint out from an aluminum yoke it only pushes the cap out the side about 25%. This is not enough to really grip it with vice grips to wiggle it out the rest of the way.

This 12º low clearance slip yoke will not do. The stock XJ slip yoke binds at 30º. I swapped it to the MJ shaft with the big aluminum ears to get 20º before it binds. This how u-joints are removed from aluminum yokes. They have be cut out since the width of the yoke is too small to press the caps out. Leaking axle shaft seal. It was so loose that it wobbled in the hole. Dropped it off this morning and reinstalled before the sun set. I actually put these on two weeks ago. The brackets are from Zone Offroad and work perfectly for high clearance with the correct angle for the shocks to not bind when articulating. The shocks are Bilstein 33-066868 meant for a XJ with a 4" lift. About 5" up travel and 4" down travel.

Maybe trying clearing the browser cache.

4k!?! :eek: Ya they can kiss my bass. That is the price point for most supercharger systems. Super charging or turbo charging an engine requires either the mechanical knowledge to build your own system or spend $4,000 to buy a bolt on kit. I spent $100 for the used supercharger and will probably spend about $400 more on other parts to finish it up.

I will be tossing that supercharger laying in the garage into the engine bay once I have it all planned out. I really like the idea of having air conditioning though.

There is always a fresh code available on Retail Me Not. http://www.retailmenot.com/view/rockauto.com

Looks like the one that goes from the left side of the cab up to the steering column.

Those radios are cheap and the displays are known to die a slow death. The only repair is to replace the whole unit.

Bottom outer corner on each light for the springs. The hardware is the same regardless of the header panel type. :D

The most Chrysler would probably do if they agreed to make repairs is install a heavy duty gas tank skid. It is not like they could afford to redesign the entire fuel system to accommodate moving it in front of the axle.

Like I said, not the seat back release with the slider at the top of the seat side, but the seat tilt mechanism with the black handle at the bottom of the seat side.

This is not the latch that holds the entire seat back up, but rather the black handle for the tilt function. The issue is that is does not release at all. Is it supposed to be pushed downwards or pulled upwards to activate it? Any easy fixes for freeing the mechanism? I already broke one handle trying to force it.

Bar pin eliminators are about 0.5" of difference. Nothing to worry about it unless rear up travel is critical.

Easier than sitting outside in a hot garage to stare at it.

I always like the scowling front bumpers. I find it amusing you put on a high quality Bilstein steering damper, but have cheap Rough Country shocks. :) Definitely enough threads in those spacer lug nuts.

No, the lever should be pointing towards the ground, but it can be flipped upside down.

2WD is the lever on the transfer case pushed all the way forward towards the front of the vehicle.

1992+ front axles and earlier disconnect axles that have been modified to be permanently connected will always spin the front drive shaft regardless of transfer case position.

It looks like you have an AW4 transmission? If so ATF+4 is the wrong fluid. It uses Mercon/Dexron. Willy It will use whatever I put in it and like it! :D ATF+4 is fine in the AW4 as long it is not being mixed with Dexron. It has to be one or the other to be technically correct. The problem with the transmission I installed is that it has an unknown history over its 220,000+ miles and likely already has a mixture of Dexron and ATF+4. I used the Chrysler approved Valvoline ATF+4 to do the 4.5 quart service fill which is pushing it more towards being a majority of ATF+4. Meanwhile over the next few years I will be sourcing another AW4 to build up with the best clutch packs and a modified valve body. I say the next few years since this high mileage AW4 is still very strong and does not slip.

It is still a truck. I was striving to not put anything in the bed, but the fuel cell killed some space. I have several construction related projects planned and having my own truck will make it easy.