CAD fix #1

ok i did my CAD fix today and took pics along the way. so here they are in order.

 

located the CAD on the passengers side of the front axle.

 

took the cover off and disconnected everything from the cover.

 

slid the sleeve over to the left to "engage" 4wd.

 

cover right after coming off. lost some oil but not alot.

 

cover/fork side shot.

 

top of cover after being cleaned.

 

notice where the fork is, thats where it is when it is not in 4wd and first came off.

 

the c-clip down in there on the rod against the fork needs to be pulled off to allow the fork to be worked over to the side it is in now as seen in the next pic.

 

worked the fork over after takin the c-clip off. this side it will hold the sleeve in the 4wd position. just work the fork over (it is sort of hard but trust me it will go) then reaplly the c-clip to hold it there.

 

didnt get any more pics but all you have to do now is bolt the cover back up and reattach everything to the cover. but leave the vac lines off. i just zip tied mine up for now til i get to the store and get some caps.

 

i then put the truck up on four jack stands and tested it. i shot a video. here is the link to it. it is 5MBs so dial up beware. all it shows is the side of the truck with the tires spinning.

 

 

Alex

 

Basically, the old CAD systems had two points for engaging 4wd. Both have to be engaged for 4wd to work. Locking over the CAD will not cause you to be in 4wd all the time.

 

:clapping:

Dang, that is one clean garage! where is all the stuff?

Nice writeup though.

girsmj86 did it, I just pasted it from his build thread. My garage is, uh, full. :D

do you mean all the tools? They are in his Jeep of course!

is the front drive shaft balanced from the factory? will you feel it if not?

is the front drive shaft balanced from the factory? will you feel it if not?

yes, it is balanced. the 4wheel drive system is rated use at speed (on slippery surfaces). But if your U-joints are shot, they may cause some vibration.

Is there any manual switch made instead of a vacuum and if so are the worth it?

nevermind found one $219.

are the worth it?

not worth it at all. Unless for some reason you wanted 2wd LOW.

nevermind found one $219.

its called posi lock

on http://www.jeepforum.com there is a DIY write up on it you use a choke cable and a set screw to make it

works good when your vac liines freeze up in the winter.

plus when i had my xj i slid my collar over and re installed the vac ting and it was locked in all the time i got crappy fuel mileage

your best bet is to cldean the vac lines good and use a zip tie and use it as is or build a 20.00 posi lock.

http://www.4x4posi-lok.com/

http://www.4x4posi-lok.com/app_jeep.html

diy threads

http://www.naxja.org/forum/archive/inde ... 84798.html

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/home ... ost4800595

had a question on this

I want to do the same thing on my truck but I'm wondering what to do with the vacuum lines after??

cut them or what??

leave 'em or yank 'em, that's your call. just be sure to plug any exposed ends so that you don't have a vacuum leak. :thumbsup:

"plus when i had my xj i slid my collar over and re installed the vac ting and it was locked in all the time i got crappy fuel mileage "

i've heard doing this didnt really decrease fuel mileage in any noticable way.

thanks for the sticky - I'm motivated now.

It should not affect fuel economy in any noticeable way. Unless maybe there was something wrong in the jeep. I mean, how much gas does it really take to spin the front driveshaft around compared to moving the truck down the road? :dunno:

Anyone know if this will work on a 1/2 ton 91 dodge tk? Dad just called his is so rusted it was almost gone so is the truck for that matter need a cheap fix. I am going down to take a look at it in the morning to compare it to the pics.

it should be applicable, but can't say for sure.

any update on the dodge?

ok , it didnt stay put. i went to go up a hill today and was surprised to find i was still in 2wd. -- so i went home and re-did it, but this time i held the fork over with a wide hose clamp. - i think this will keep it in place much more permanently.

are the worth it?

 

 

not worth it at all. Unless for some reason you wanted 2wd LOW.

wouldnt another reason be (neighbour gave me this idea) to have the front diff welded and then use th cable actuator as a "locker" ?

why go through all that effort when a lunchbox locker is like only 200 bucks? besides, spool + 260 U-joints = trouble

not to keep messing up this post, but when i went to shift into 4 today there was no 4 ( just like before when the collar slid back over). took the cad cover off and the fork was broken ! i don't know if the clamp i put on had anything to do with that or not. in reading the tec section i see that its mentioned that simply putting the vac on upside down will keep the collar over to the engaged side.

http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/view ... le#p259522

anybody ever doe this on a late model dodge ram? 2001? must be about the same setup..

I gotta imagine a similar fix would work. :thumbsup:

can someone please tell me why this is done and the advantage? whats the difference from the factory set up,