75sv1 Posted August 8 Share Posted August 8 My take. The previous job looks hacked. The routing of the rear lines, is suspect. Makes about anything less, questionable. Yeah, I'd put new calipers on the front. I went through this with my Chevy Avalanche last year. Looked like recent parts. I found chunks in the Master Cylinder. I botched a new one. I didn't bench bleed it right. I also had a '78 Civic. Had the brakes replaced a few times. The rotor on those were pressed between the bearing. They didn't bleed the front calipers. When I did, there was a rust blob that came out. Yeah, new calipers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dotnetrob Posted August 29 Author Share Posted August 29 Finally have an update. Broken and rusted shut bleeders, 1 rotor was in bad shape, rusted onto the wheel bearing and corners of the rotor was all beat up. Rusted on dust covers, or what was left of them. 1 of the pads on the passenger side was partially broken, 1/4 of the pad was missing. The driver side drive shaft nut would not come off, so removed the drive shaft with wheel bearing all in one piece. With all the carnage, everything needed to be replaced. Cleaned and painted knuckles Replaced the drive side drive shaft. new axles nuts and caps on both sides Installed 2 new wheel bearings. Installed 2 new dust shields. Installed 2 new rotors. Installed 2 new calipers Installed new brake pads on both sides. All installed and front brakes bleed. Was going to do a CAD delete while I was at it but need to stay on task for now and get the brakes working. After taking a quick test drive, there is an improvement. Not huge, but noticeable. Would say before I replaced all the front brakes, braking power was maybe 20%, would say its maybe 30% now. Still horribly weak, but does stop better. On 8/6/2025 at 8:12 PM, coolwind57 said: Page 5 of one of my write-ups shows what I did to delete a few things. Something for you to have a look at. Might get you some ideas. Good luck, friend. It's about half way down page 5: After looking at @coolwind57 write up. I believe I am going to add a proportioning value up front near the master cylinder for the rear brakes and convert the rear brakes to 1 line to the rear. Anyone see any issues with this idea? Attached a horribly drawn diagram of the current and proposed setup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coolwind57 Posted August 29 Share Posted August 29 I've not looked back. No issues since I did my mod. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted August 29 Share Posted August 29 Keep in mind also that the pads you select will play a big roll in braking. Centric posi-quiet is a good setup as they are softer and grab better than most. And make sure to follow break in procedures with new pads and rotors. The braking difference is substantial. Good break pads will create a bit of break dust but that what you want with an otherwise stock braking system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratrapp Posted August 29 Share Posted August 29 exactly.i ve told alot of my customers that complain about brake dust.i try to explain to them the dust is a byproduct of the pads actually working.i know some may leave more residue than others but if they are too clean that means theyre not doing much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
75sv1 Posted August 29 Share Posted August 29 6 hours ago, ghetdjc320 said: Keep in mind also that the pads you select will play a big roll in braking. Centric posi-quiet is a good setup as they are softer and grab better than most. And make sure to follow break in procedures with new pads and rotors. The braking difference is substantial. Good break pads will create a bit of break dust but that what you want with an otherwise stock braking system. I was going to post something similar. I used mid grade NAPA pads on my Avalanche. They really didn't bite or brake well. I am having rims redone. $$$. So, it was suggested to use Ceramic pads. I went with Aldios pads. Supplier to Toyota. I like how they brake. From post on the net, Centric and Wagner Thermo quiets get good reviews. I do have the NAPA/Wagner or is it Raybestos Reactive pads and rotors. They are OK. I plan to change the fronts to Black Magic pads at some point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dotnetrob Posted August 29 Author Share Posted August 29 8 hours ago, ghetdjc320 said: Keep in mind also that the pads you select will play a big roll in braking. Centric posi-quiet is a good setup as they are softer and grab better than most. And make sure to follow break in procedures with new pads and rotors. The braking difference is substantial. Good break pads will create a bit of break dust but that what you want with an otherwise stock braking system. These Napa pads are the pads I ended up with. Hopefully they work well. If there are pads anyone recommends please add a link. Working on getting the brake lines and fittings I need to do the plumbing changes. Already own the line bending tools and flaring tools, just need the fittings and line. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dotnetrob Posted November 15 Author Share Posted November 15 Alright, finally updating the long, still on going saga that is my Comanche's brakes. The stock Comanche distribution value fittings were so rusty that even heat and penetrating oil couldn't help, ended up breaking multiple fittings and lines trying to get things apart. Tried making some new brake lines but apparently I am incapable to making a good double flare, even bought a different tool and ultimately decided my dream of becoming as a good brake line flairer was not meant to be. So I gave up... Ended up calling a local 4x4 shop I had used many many times on both my JK and TJ. Had them come get my MJ, since I had now messed up the brakes pretty good. They decided the best route was to replace the distribution value with one from an XJ and replaced about 1/2 of one of the lines going to the rear. So now just 1 line going to the rear from the XJ valve. Was going to have them do some other work since I like being lazy, but for some reason they pretty much just sat on my MJ and didn't make much progress past the XJ distribution valve, kind of frustrated they had it a month. They mentioned the rear brake where making noise when stopping but they said the brakes were much better. So I got excited and decided to go ahead and pick it up and for go any other work, heck the brakes should work now right.... Picked it up late yesterday evening and drove it home. The brake pedal is a little better, not a mushy pedal 80% of the way down, brakes feel... better, maybe, a little, but still feels weak to me. But drove it home 80+ miles in rush hour traffic, was a bit of a rough experience, but it made it home. Today took it out for a drive to get lunch with my son and it was a horrible experience. Brakes still feel weak, pedal is a bit mushy. But I have all new brakes up front(everything), rear brakes are rebuilt( by other local shop), and now have an XJ distribution valve. At the second stop light I came too, had to brake a bit hard, light turned as just the right time, wasn't even close to an emergency stop, but the rear brakes locked up hard, took the comanche a good bit side ways. Extremely frustrated with myself, the shop. Maybe the rear drum brakes need to be adjusted, unfortunately I know so little about drum brakes, except I worked on them as a teen with my first truck a few times and have hated them since. Don't really want to take it back to the shop, long drive, owner is apparently on vacation again and he is apparently the one I would need to talk to but he won't call me. I guess I am hard to work with or people just don't like me. Maybe both... Either way, I once again have an undriveable comanche that needs tons of work... but I can't even get the brakes working why work on the rest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted November 16 Share Posted November 16 what's the tire pressure? I added an adjustable prop to the rear brakes on the 88 I've been fixing up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dotnetrob Posted Sunday at 09:20 PM Author Share Posted Sunday at 09:20 PM 18 hours ago, Pete M said: what's the tire pressure? I added an adjustable prop to the rear brakes on the 88 I've been fixing up. They are 31x10.50F15LT firestone destination a/t, rear are at 32 RP and 33 RD. Front are at 29 FP and 32 FD. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89 MJ Posted Sunday at 10:10 PM Share Posted Sunday at 10:10 PM 49 minutes ago, dotnetrob said: They are 31x10.50F15LT firestone destination a/t, rear are at 32 RP and 33 RD. Front are at 29 FP and 32 FD. I have the same tires in the same size on my MJ. That’s too much air. They’re better at 28 psi. You also need to have the tires at a more even pressure side to side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted Monday at 02:01 AM Share Posted Monday at 02:01 AM 4 hours ago, dotnetrob said: rear are at 32 RP and 33 RD. Front are at 29 FP and 32 FD I have to ask, since I don't know, but what does RP, RD, FP and FD mean? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
llhat Posted Monday at 02:04 AM Share Posted Monday at 02:04 AM will answer for OP, RP rear passenger side, think you can get it from there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted Monday at 02:09 AM Share Posted Monday at 02:09 AM Its kindness when you help an idiot out. Now I understand. Thanks for the insight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dotnetrob Posted Thursday at 07:07 PM Author Share Posted Thursday at 07:07 PM Finally have working brakes on my comanche. Took it to a different shop and had them diagnose the issue. Looks like the rear brakes that were fixed/repairs/replaced by the first shop were not done very well and also needed adjustment. So the XJ distribution valve worked. Super happy to finally have a drive-able comanche. Now to start work on the other 100 things on the to fix list. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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