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That Orange MJ, Bought and Rebuild Project


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Ive been frequenting this forum enough lately that i figured its time to share the process. 

 

So i should start off by clarifying this is 100% the start of a Bought Not Built project. I'm not typically fond of this situation as i prefer the Built Not Bought moto. My exception to this deal is the fact that i followed the original build until completion and absolutely adored the Jeep! As you will soon see, i very much took on a Built but now needs Rebuild Project hence the Title to this thread. 

 

This is an 87 comanche, it had been sitting for some time and was scooped up then blown apart and LS swapped!

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At this point it has a 6.0L LS, 4l60e trans and 241C tcase. KP Dana 60 up front and a ford 10.5 out back. Long arm setup with radius arms, high steer knuckles, locked front and rear axles. 5.38 gears etc etc etc. The original builder finished it and a relatively short while after sold it off to focus other projects he had.

 

 

 

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Soo then we speed up a bit to more recently as of this summer 2022. I had seen this jeep hit the marketplace a couple times over the years (OG builder bought in February 2016, finished and sold around summer 2019). Each time only momentarily looking over the sale and then dismissing it quickly. Each time the price and timing just didn't match my abilities. 

 

Funny thing is that when i came across the OG builder at the annual Jeep Blessing i got to mentioning how the MJ was up for grabs again! I had once again dismissed it completely but for some reason after our weekend trip for the event i couldn't help but think the purchase over again.

 

Soo after a conversation or two with my secretary (wife) this was actually a possibility after all!  I struck up a conversation with the seller and we came to a deal. The kicker was this truck was over 7 hours away into Michigan's upper peninsula! A quick conversation with my brother and we were set for a road trip that very weekend! 

 

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I will say that the deal went smooth, we made great time managing a 1 day turn and burn round trip.

 

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This is where it became Very Very clear that this was going to be a Rebuild project! The things i found before handing over the $$ were lets just say less than desirable. The truck had not been treated with as much care as it should have been leading me to the conclusion that these prior owners after the initial build must have more $$ than they did knowledge or ambition to make repairs.

 

The brakes overall were not in great working order, low and behold the rear brakes were well passed overdue for replacing with this metal on metal action. To my surprise the seller had bragged about how he was still driving it to work 1-2 times a week! Yikes!!

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The springs if you can't tell are pretty well sacked/warped, the additional improvised rusty spring clamp was a clear indicator these would need some attention. I also don't approve of the factory style leaf perch or u-bolts either. Something like this especially being V8 swapped should have something more along the lines of the Barnes4wd or Ruffstuff specialties extended perch's at the least. Notice that factory monroe shock - big surprise both these rear shocks are blown.

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can't share these shocks without pointing out the muffler shop weld job on these shock mounts. Also the remains of a bolt head welded to that axle tubes for a former shock setup.

 

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Thankfully they atleast tried to make up the gap at the top and bottom with  some bolts and even more poor welds. It clear to me the original build shocks were broken off at some point and this was their solution

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No sense in removing a bad fuel pump when we can simply zip tie the replacement to it right?

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This track bar has had a bad day or two or 3. Its been welded back together a couple times and even was welding directly to the unibody at some point. The bolts holding it in are not very tight and from the view of the coil spring the track isn't adjusted properly either.

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This lovely little disaster is the current battery setup. Bolts through some brass couplers connect both the pos/neg cables from short leads to the jeep. What a mess! We can absolutely do better than this!

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My final gripe is the lack of headliner. Riding in a tin can would be acceptable in an aggressive wheeling machine or a beater but this is essentially neither of those!

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Lets start this by stopping dead in my tracks for a change!

All four of these pads in the rear were metal-metal = Crazy!
The pistons on the calipers were definitely extended out to their max!

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So a new pair of E350 van single rear wheel brake rotors and early-mid 80s chevy JB6 caliper brake pads and its looking a bit more functional now. All of this from Rockauto for $127 shipped!

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I had to re-shim the adapter brackets as well. With the new pads in place the caliper would not clear the rotor and the pads were digging into the rotor as i tried to force it into place. A very precision deal here - formerly just 1 grade 8 - 3/4" hole washer between the bracket and axles flange. Now its equipped with 2 grade 8 - 5/8" hole washers per bolt.

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Then I took advantage of the nice weather and got to figuring out this headliner and interior some

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Ive been in an MJ or two over the years without a headliner at the very least and its like getting kicked around in a tin can when things hit the roof. I got a box of this kilmat for try out for sound deadening so basically because it was already clear access i figured id throw a couple squares up there. A light introduction into the application of the kilmat itself is the least that comes of it and I'm good with that. Noticable difference or not? i'm pretty satisfied with how well it stuck to the ceiling and also there wasnt much of a lingering smell after all said and done.

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To start off - i grabbed a headliner out of the junkyard from a newer bodystyle XJ. I also grabbed the overhead lamp and factory hanger/bracket to go with it. This is skipping a few proper steps of how the process actually worked out but ultimately i mapped out where the overhead console was going to be sitting after i had the headliner trimmed and fitted, then modified the overhead brackets overall length to line up where i needed it. Trimmed about 1 5/8" off the end of it and then secured it to the MJ's factory inner cross support of the B-pillar using a couple rivets.

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With a centerline drawn for reference the point here wasn't for an indestructible mount - just merely a solid anchor to keep the light fixture from bouncing.

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Now onto the actual headliner trim. I did a blind cut to get it out of the XJ in the yard - basically split half the rear doors and just razor'd the thin across. There is a factory squared edge about the same spot of the rear grab handles in the ceiling. I started here with my cut for overall length (thats front to back length).

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I only cut the outer layer of the headliner - this was it will fold down easily and still be attached. The end got cut all the way through and also the corners cut off.

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Rolled the edge over and test fit - sry but no continuous pics from the repeated install process but it was still too long. Drew another line about 1" forward and again - trimmed just the out layer and test fit - close but not there yet So finally just about 3/4" more and another outer later cut and then also removed that first initial chunk as it was only hindering my fitment at this point.

 

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With these 2 cut lines the headliner folds over and secures into place nicely. The overhead console also fits nicely and keeps the center of this headliner supported.

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Headliner was recovered in a high cotton fabric. It was just a convenient amazon find of wooded camo and some hunters orange for color. Sun visors also got recovered and mounted up. I nabbed the a-pillar trim panels out of another newer body xj and secured them in place. This pillar pod setup was secured with just the one roofing screw but now its secured with 4 - factory style phillps head screws. Eventually i'd like to get the factory gauge cluster working as nothing on it works currently- if not the factory cluster then prolly a filler panel and custom gauges in place instead.

 

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Just need a grab handle and some of those newer universal interior lights that are pretty commonly swapped into these MJ's. Maybe some krylon paint matching as well in the future?

 

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Shocking i'll bet

starting this one off with amazon's finest chevy lowering shackles coming in at $39.21. Good for something like a 2.5" lift~ So this MJ sits a little more level now! As expected the former blue monroe shocks were wasted but coming full circle i still had these red shocks hanging in the shed. These shocks have been on my 87 Truggy MJ build, and also my 98 Rubicon XJ build. Still some life left in them so they can ride for now until i have the coin for a better pair of shocks. Also have new shock mounts for the axle but figure I'm just gonna wait till the new shocks are around and then i'll deal with cleaning up the tubes and welding the new ones in.

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What a surprise all four track bar mount bolts were lose. literally spun 3 of the 4 nuts free with my fingers. Cleaned off some of the old weld to make things smooth and ready for a new mount. also cleaned up the unibody seam so i could fully weld it in. I have done this on a few jeeps now and in my opinion it has helped keep the unibody together longer vs the cracks that develop around the steering box bolts.

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Now wouldn't ya know it - the pitman arm wasn't even tight either. Add to that this track bar was built using (2) RH heim joints. So if you follow what I'm saying to adjust the track bar length and get the axle centered under the jeep you have to remove one end AND THEN twist the bar to adjust it. "PALM FACE!" losen up the jam nuts and twist the bar and it just channels left/right changing nothing for length. SOO a new track bar is in order- in the flavor of bigger 7/8 heim joints and of course a R/L heim to make this right. This track bar mount i had laying around isn't matching the steering angle so potentially a new custom mount all-together may be in order. Thankfully after going through all of this and replaced one of the TRE's because it was Really bad- the other i'll do later once I'm under the front end again - this drives Soo much better already.

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Also while i've gotten use to using the B&M shifter I did order up a new setup that's a bit less finicky. I've played with another jeep that had this shifter and i definitely preferred this setup more. The gated shifting is something new but there surely won't be any accidental shifting with this setup!

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So lets address this shifter for a little bit

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I'll be honest here, i was oblivious on how to take advantage of a ratchet shifter prior to this truck. Sure i understood the concept and how it works but the actual function and use - i didn't really make the connection. After going through this truck for a little bit troubleshooting some other issues i was digging slamming the shifter up through the gears! Getting full throttle and little rev limiter between the shifts is music to my ears 

It had its drawbacks though - like the gear indicator wasn't working so it always showed "park" and it wasn't always making the shifts. So i was set on changing things up after all!

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Not much for setup process here - Literally removed old unit, setup mount brackets and drilled the new hole for the cable. Then it was adjusting the ends till i could slip through each gear and remove the ball/socket without any deflection from the shifter arm or cable.

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This was a surprise for me - not only cable shifted trans but also there is a cable shift setup on the tcase as well! So i had a small issue when laying out the cable - the cable was basically laying right across the yoke/ujoints at the top of the front driveshaft

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I hit the junk pile and came up with this old hood latch setup. With a little chop and drill i had this little pedestal to anchor the line to.

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a couple tube clamps will keep it in place

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Now back inside with the bench seat installed - still want something more to cover the tcase shifter and while initially i figured i would just modify a factor mini console - I'm not so sure anymore. This sidewinder setup is a little taller than expected so its back to the drawing board on console ideas.

I'm also changing things up with the extra switch panel that was secured with roofing hardware to the dash. This one is just a little bulky for my interests though i do like me some excessive switches!

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I then reluctantly dropped the truck off to my fab guys shop to make things a little easier for the both of us on changing the track bar setup. Track bar bracket on the axle side got modified to match the steering angle and also lengthened by an inch or two.

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Trimmed and fitted the steering stabilizer bracket for a more parallel setup to the steering and also flush with bottom of the axle tube. New tie rod ends and also fixed one of my high steer arms as the taper for one of the joints was blown out.

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New Barnes4wd leaf spring perch's and those fat n s3xy u-bolts. I also found a new pair of Rustys AAL long springs so we tossed them in there to get things back to a more level riding stance.

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We decided against the barnes shock mounts and he cut me some custom brackets that offset a little farther away from the axle tube for a little more shock clearance.

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Waiting for his plasma table to cooperate fully before we cut out a custom molle panel for behind the seat inside the cab. Panel will mount directly where the factory carpet panel would sit in the back. Maybe not by factory mounting holes alone so for the purists out there - this won't be for you

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Now onto my next endeavor - 1 key to rule this truck from end to end!

To start i literally just pulled a key from another 97+ xj in the yard and verified door locks and glove box matched and worked properly.

The ignition was a very straight forward swap over.

These door locks however took a little finesse to get done!

Ill highlight the major differences as far as i can tell these are original lock cylinders to the truck so we're talking about 87 doors/cylinders going to a 97+ lock cylinder.
There are 4 steps or cutouts in the door which align the cylinder specifically and also keep it from twisting - it seemed like 3/4 if not all 4 notches needed to be opened up to fit the newer cylinder.
- This was easily remedied with a half moon file work and some patience. File some and check fitment- repeat until clean fit!
If you compare you can prolly make out the slight different in size

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Next up is the orientation of the rod keepers and also the diameter hole the keepers need. Old style are the metal clip and new style were the purple or plastic clip. Both newer cylinders were drilled out with a 5/16 drill bit.

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There is some thickness difference as well but in the end it hadn't made much a difference, i will say though you will easily bend the newer style tab if its not secure when you drill - go nice and easy for this part!

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After fitting the old style rod clip to the new cylinder i used a smaller drill bit the clean up the fitment some as removing and installing it from one cylinder to the other kinda smooshed the fitment some. Some break away or lube here was helpful for final install of the rod.

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Aftermatch fitment is exactly what i was hoping for! The retainer clip was re-used on both doors and secured the cylinders nicely into their new homes.

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Some interior changes, out with these burgundy door panels and in with some 2-piece wood grain and grey door panels.

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The new panels were from a limited which off course they had power windows soo a new hole for the window crank had to be made. Pilot drill bit and then a 1" paddle bit made easy work of this. Cut a + into the interior side fabric and then crank windows it is!

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So i do need to find the retainers for the upper part of the door handle. Also gonna be on the lookout for a completely black door handle trim. The speaker grille will get replaced/deleted as well. Currently no speakers in the doors soo either a cleaner looking flush beauty cover or an actual speaker and round speaker grille will go in so long as it still clears the window crank.

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Floor insulation from a 92 XJ fit fine enough for my needs after some trimming.

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Followed up by the carpet from the same 92 XJ again with a little trimming here and there I'm satisfied with its overall fitment.

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Bench seat re-installed with all new nutsthumbnail_Resized_20221211_135724.jpg.42f2f1ae3d1f02bec37f9f27c52841c0.jpg

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A little hard to make out in this picture but i dug into my shed for this grey set of MJ interior trims. The original burgundy B-pillar and rocker trims will likely go under the paint can to get this closer to a color matched interior. The bench seat i have not decided on just yet whether i have it re-upholstered or just go with a simple seat cover.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 12/13/2022 at 8:37 PM, neohic said:

I… LOVE… THIS… TRUCK!!!! :beerbang:

Thank you

On 12/13/2022 at 10:55 PM, MiNi Beast said:

About time you post your progress. :popcorn:

Yes it's slow going. I won't say I have too many jeeps... but I have a few jeep/projects and the progress is touch and go with all of them.

 

Currently playing with design and fitment of this molle panel for the back of the cab. There is a thread in the DIY section on it for more detailed pics and progress 

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  • 1 month later...

Soo I finally swung into action and moved my battery back up to the engine bay over the weekend.

 

Currently what it setup in the bed of this truck is a fuel cell, the battery which is to the right of the fuel cell at the far side of the bed. Then also the Trans cooler and this massive 37" spare tire!

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My intentions here is to free up the space and by the end of this ideally only having a spare tire remaining.

 

Engine bay is fairly empty minus the 6.0L engine but there isn't much else for extras. This made this transition soo much easier! Forgive the wire nest over the blower motor, this is old accessory wiring that will also get changed in time!

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This was only a little tricky, with a barnes4wd optima battery mount I was able to mount the new tray securely to the fenderwell/wheelwell and still clear the coolant hoses and hood. Gm pcm got shifted a bit closer to the blower motor with ease though I need to make another bracket to support the low side but for now this will do.

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The wiring is still a little bit of a mess but with a new 2 gauge power wire to the starter, 2 gauge ground wire to the engine block and shorter 4 gauge lead to the alternator this truck came right back to life!

 

Still need to rewire a few things like the cooling fans, blower motor and accessory lighting but I was running out of daylight and didn't want to open up too much of the wiring just yet.

 

I also started the process of fitting a TJ gas tank into the rear spare tire area under the bed but managed no pictures to show progress. Removing that fuel cell from the bed is a big goal of mine for this incentive of free bed space. What I can say thus far is the fitment is not as direct as many might think! While I am completely aware of the approach JCR offroad took to their application of the tank, my approach with leaving the factory "X" brace and clearing metal form the rear of the bed is turning into a subtle adventure of how little can I remove and still make for functional fitment!

 

I promise to take pictures and better document the progress as I get a little more into this task. For now though that's what I got to share

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  • 1 month later...

Finally got my molle panel design installed and i'm very happy with the outcome!

 

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Kinetic rope in a universal mag pouch and then my soft shackle and snatch block in the small pouch to the right. Plenty of room for more gear etc that i won't have to worry about sliding around under the seat

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  • 3 weeks later...

So while flipping through Marketplace i came across this jewel of a farm truck. Worked the deal a bit and landed at $400. 2 words - Bucket Seats! The bonus was the fact that the 4.0 4x4 drivetrain has less than 100k miles! 

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Really though the initial buy was Just for the bucket seats but besides the little things here and there i plan to save for other projects I'm also going to have the factory sliding rear glass pulled out and installed in the orange truck. 

 

Topper wasn't part of the original purchase but was on the way so i figured perfect opportunity to travel safely with the topper. Early S10 short bed topper was $50. 

 

Forgive me though as i didn't take any pictures of the inside of the truck before removing the seats. It was a complete grey interior though with a felt-less headliner and the rear carpet trim still intact- though i don't have a need for that anymore still a nice find nonetheless.

 

If the broken exterior view didn't make it obvious enough - its pretty rust down there! Driver seat mount was rusting away. Front side has most the damage and one tab on the rear also needed some love.

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I used the passenger seat bracket as my reference and simply reversed the templates i made to apply in the driver side setup. Passenger pictured Left, mock-up drivers bracket on the right.

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Almost forgot the notch for the return spring! The bracket originally had compression rivet and a hard to spot rosette weld securing it to the slider base. I ground the heads off the compression rivets but kept the body as an alignment pin for my new bracket. Welded the rivet body flush with the seat bracket and then added a 5/16's hole to either side to rosette weld in place as well.

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hit it with 2 coats of rustoleum black engine enamel - this has been my go to paint lately. It sticks well and holds its color good enough for my needs.

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lack of lighting - my apologies!

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Gonna have to start looking for a center console setup now that its wide open there. Also nabbed the grey seat belts and buckles - Thank goodness no more Red/Burgundy interior!!

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  • 1 month later...

Time for some attention under the hood Again.

 

Haven't been the most satisfied with the battery mounting in itself ( little wobbly as is so it could absolutely be done better) and while discussing other under the hood things with my brother we decided it was time for more change. On my list of want to do's was make a new intake tube, preferably less pieces as a whole. This conversation about routing lead to ditching the older factory style coolant reservoir in the driver front corner. The intake cone filter will stay in the driver side of the engine bay but this will give us a little more room to get the filter farther away from the exhaust header. 

 

Utilizing a later factory coolant reservoir in the later factory location proved simple enough and also makes for a much shorter overflow hose. This came with its own little changes because now the coolant hoses for the heater core would need to be re-routed as well. Those needed to be changed and managed a little better anyway so it was basically meant to be.

 

Also wanted a more reliable and universal setup for wiring accesories (lights, elec fans etc) than the previous setup so an amazon special relay box was in store for sure.

 

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It was far too late for a finished  product photo when all was done but this also came with another issue. The very noisy car quest fuel pump had locked up!

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Without any idea of its age or even a part number to reference it's capabilities I stuck to the interwebs for a preferred in line ls swap replacement.

 

The walbro 392 pump was $125 and showed up in just a couple days. 20230524_174434.jpg.6f2673872d1ea83adf18dae2a10fb166.jpg

 

I didn't realize in-line fuel pumps could be this quiet!

 

All said and done this truck runs and sounds better. Will sneak a few better photos in here for the engine bay once I start playing around with all this tube for the intake. Conveniently enough, semi trucks use 4" aluminum tube for their intercooler systems, just soo happens my truck needs 4" tube as well to match the throttle body and MAF

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Stay tuned for some potentially cringy aluminum tig work and this will be my first tig job other than messing around with test squares!

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 6/6/2023 at 7:35 AM, ThatJeepGuy said:

 

Stay tuned for some potentially cringy aluminum tig work and this will be my first tig job other than messing around with test squares!

 

 

 

I promise it'll still be better than mine.  :D 

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On 6/16/2023 at 9:45 AM, Pete M said:

 

I promise it'll still be better than mine.  :D 

 Oh boy we shall see won't we ;)

 

That 90 parts MJ is the rust bucket that just keeps on giving!

We planned to do some exploring tomorrow for fathers day and with that i figured i'd button up a couple small things i've had on my mind. Unfortunately not the intake tube just yet (waiting for the right deal on a bandsaw or portaband to do some clean pie cuts).

The driver window only goes down till there is just over an inch of glass still exposed and then starts jumping the cable. Surprisingly this parts MJ has great crank windows! Unfortunately while swapping that out i found the bottom section of window track was completely rusted off!

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Mint vent window for the win! gonna look just a little funny without the tint for the time being but the benefits far outway the out of place appearance! Eventually after i get a new windshield and the sliding rear glass from the parts MJ installed I planned to take this jeep down for a new window tint job.

 

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Again the parts MJ just keeps on bleeding those useful little pieces and parts. Currently zero radio or speakers in this jeep, though i have yet to get a radio installed these door speakers sure are encouraging to get something going and see how they sound.

 

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Future high-lift jack mount. Simple L bracket

 

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pvc spacers

 

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L brackets secure to the inner lip of the bed rail and also through the top of the wheel well. This was a $50 marketplace score. High-lift brand jack in basically new condition.

 

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Also came across this military E-shovel/pick for a mere $10.

 

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Looking forward to some road and forest miles exploring tomorrow for the first time in this truck. Those good-ol-days memories of my early 20's driving my other MJ -now truggy- are something I'm sure this jeep will help me re-live and even more soo Now share with my son (5 yrs old now).

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  • 1 month later...

Little freshening up with the front signals. The tinted/smoked markers just arent doing it for me anymore.

 

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These were factory clear front marker lenses that i re-tinted and bordered with black for the Euro style.

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tagged the side markers too

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On 7/25/2023 at 10:25 PM, Drahcir495 said:

There is a lot to say about what you have done to your truck - in a very positive way. The key locks and door panels are two of the highlights for me. Nicely done :L:

 

Thanks! 

 

The ability to lock the truck and everything on 1 key is a luxury that I appreciate more as a middle aged enthusiast than I ever considered as a teen or "20-something".

 

The door panels with the country package wood trim I'm rather on the fence about. Initially I figured I would repaint the faux wood grain and repair the vinyl pad but the more I look at a pair of early Grey panels and the hockey stick arm rests the more I feel I may lean into some Rem paint and change up again.

 

We'll see what drives my attention next. Recently started tackling getting a radio and speakers into the truck which resulted in a wiring nightmare trying to adapt 97+ dash wiring to 90- MJ wiring.

The outcome isn't the cleanest of installs but it will be functional for the time being until I one day revamp/redo the entire wiring to a more "me understanding". 

 

Just one of those unfortunate hurdles when it comes to buying something highly modified vs building something highly modified yourself I'm still rather enjoying this rebuild process though despite the pitfalls of prior work.

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  • 2 months later...

Well I have been pretty slow going lately. Working on other vehicles and projects. I snuck the truck back into the garage and got into some more of this interior stuff.

 

Started out with trying to figure out a mounting bracket and overall fitment for a newer style xj console. Eventually succumbing to a ~$25 ebay/Amazon bracket. With a little modification I can atleast say it's mounts and sturdy at that!20231007_141437.jpg.3fac9398009189517e5d6ad12c9375f8.jpg

 

The top 2 mounting holes for the center console cubby itself weren't tapped for any specific thread so I went for 1/4-20 and modified some grade 8 hardware to fit because grade 8 is what I had 😜 

 

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Trial fitment was looking good

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Then came the actual install of some new to me MJ carpet I found for $50, All the trims and seats

 

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Now I'm gonna be on the lookout for another tcase shifter to hopefully replace or modify mine. One of the previous owners removed the gate for the lever itself so while this doesn't affect its ability to shift the tcase, but it will help in mounting a shifter bezel. Also this near endless amount of side to side play is a little clunky so it should mitigate that as well

 

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More to come

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