brake line tools and flaring recommendations

[jamespwsullivan]

I am in the process of replacing some brake lines and other brake components.  I have some questions.

1. I have read several places that the preferred inverted flare for brake lines is a double rather than a single flare.  Thoughts on this?
2. I am looking at flaring tool kits and see that many offer both 37 degree and 45 degree tools.  Which one is correct for the MJ?
3. Does anyone have any recommendations for flaring tools sets?  I want a tool that makes good flares and has a decent lifetime but see no reason to spend the money an a hydraulic tool.

Thanks

[Limeyjeeper]

I have this tool. Absolutely the best way to flare brakelines

https://www.amazon.com/Tool-International-Vise-Mounted-T-Handle-KTI70081/dp/B004IKRO34

 

As you are in Indy I would be happy to lend you mine. 

 

You need double 37 degree flares for MJ lines. 3/16 line.

[jamespwsullivan]

Thanks for the offer, but the truck is in Kirkland, WA so I'm planning to purchase a set and leave it for my nephew when we're done.  I'm also thinking that I might have to do some of the work with lines in place so a handheld could be easier.  It sure looks like a bench mounted type could be more consistent.

 

Can you tell me how you know about 37 versus 45 degrees?  I love to know sources!

 

[Eagle]

Brake lines absolutely have to be double flares. Otherwise the flares will crack and leak.

 

Never heard of 37 degrees or 45 degrees.

 

I would recommend the flaring kit that I have, but it's no longer offered so that won't help you.

 

FWIW, spend the money to get "Cunifer" (short for the chemical abbreviations for Copper, Nickel, and Steel)) line. It's more resistant to rust and corrosion than steel line, plus it's easier to bend and much easier to flare.

 

[Gojira94]

I just used this one to make 100% new lines for my MJ. I'll post up pics of that later today in my 'Basket case MJ' build thread. Nicest thing about it is you can even do it on the vehicle, which I had to do for either end of the rear feed line from the Wilwood valve, after bending and installing a 13 foot line, as well as the passenger side end at the wheel/ hose.... It only works with 3/16" line though. I really don't mess with flaring other tube sizes except GM transmission cooler lines but when stuff goes bad with a GM tranny, replacement of lines for $45 is how I go.

 

Titan 3/16 double flaring tool

 

British guy did a review of this/ a clone and it sold me on it. The Eastwood and clones are great but, again, for when you need to cut and flare an end that's a super-sized PITA to pull back out and flare, this is what will serve you best.

 

Rick's Garage YouTube review of this tool

 

I use a t-handle reamer to clean up the inner diameter after cutting and a medium-sized bastard file to deburr/ square/ slightly bevel the end after reaming.

[Limeyjeeper]

1 hour ago, Eagle said:

Brake lines absolutely have to be double flares. Otherwise the flares will crack and leak.

 

Never heard of 37 degrees or 45 degrees.

 

I would recommend the flaring kit that I have, but it's no longer offered so that won't help you.

 

FWIW, spend the money to get "Cunifer" (short for the chemical abbreviations for Copper, Nickel, and Steel)) line. It's more resistant to rust and corrosion than steel line, plus it's easier to bend and much easier to flare.

 

37 and 45 are pretty interchangeable. I use 37 degree because all my lines are SS. Also AN is 37 degree. You can use 37 or 45 for regular copper type lines. Most OEM and DOT standard is 45 degree but either works just fine. Most flaring tools don't even give you the choice they are 45 degree. The important part is a DOUBLE flare is absolutely the only way to flare a Jeep brake line.

[Airborne Janitor]

2 hours ago, Gojira94 said:

I just used this one to make 100% new lines for my MJ. I'll post up pics of that later today in my 'Basket case MJ' build thread. Nicest thing about it is you can even do it on the vehicle, which I had to do for either end of the rear feed line from the Wilwood valve, after bending and installing a 13 foot line, as well as the passenger side end at the wheel/ hose.... It only works with 3/16" line though. I really don't mess with flaring other tube sizes except GM transmission cooler lines but when stuff goes bad with a GM tranny, replacement of lines for $45 is how I go.

 

Titan 3/16 double flaring tool

 

British guy did a review of this/ a clone and it sold me on it. The Eastwood and clones are great but, again, for when you need to cut and flare an end that's a super-sized PITA to pull back out and flare, this is what will serve you best.

 

Rick's Garage YouTube review of this tool

 

I use a t-handle reamer to clean up the inner diameter after cutting and a medium-sized bastard file to deburr/ square/ slightly bevel the end after reaming.

 

I have this tool too and it works great.

[cruiser54]

I've had the same tool for over 40 years. 

 

Mine is Blue Point. I'm sure this one is not. 

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-20656A-Flaring-Aluminum-Blow-Molded/dp/B00170SZOK/?tag=drive09e6-20&asc_source=browser&asc_refurl=https://www.thedrive.com/reviews/37992/brake-line-flaring-tool

 

 

[ghetdjc320]

I’ve had bar style and t handle style flaring tools. OTC make a decent bar style flaring tool. The t handle one from titan works significantly better at producing quality flares consistently. None work as well as that K-tool unit in Limeys link. If you haven’t used one, you don’t know what your missing. Speed, quality and consistency are most excellent. 

[87MJTIM]

I purchased a Lisle flaring tool, but it only does 45* double flares 

[cruiser54]

What else do you need?

[watchamakalit]

I use an old bar style double flare set.  No idea the brand but it works well for me.  These days if I have steel brake line issues involving rust I simply advise the owner to purchase a full brake line kit from dorman or some other manufacturer.  My days of chasing rusty lines to install half a dozen splices are over.  If a brake line goes to $#!& on a vehicle, the others aren't far behind.  The complete hard line kits make live so much better.  No worries about where the next leak will occur.  Just my $.02  YMMV.

[pizzaman09]

I too use the bar style flaring set, I like it because it is easy to use in awkward situations underneath the vehicle.  They take some practice to make a good flare.

[jamespwsullivan]

On 10/21/2022 at 12:55 PM, Eagle said:

Brake lines absolutely have to be double flares. Otherwise the flares will crack and leak.

 

Never heard of 37 degrees or 45 degrees.

 

I would recommend the flaring kit that I have, but it's no longer offered so that won't help you.

 

FWIW, spend the money to get "Cunifer" (short for the chemical abbreviations for Copper, Nickel, and Steel)) line. It's more resistant to rust and corrosion than steel line, plus it's easier to bend and much easier to flare.

 

Thank Eagle.Lots of good info on this thread.  I'm sourcing some "Cunifer" line.

[jamespwsullivan]

On 10/22/2022 at 10:01 AM, ghetdjc320 said:

I’ve had bar style and t handle style flaring tools. OTC make a decent bar style flaring tool. The t handle one from titan works significantly better at producing quality flares consistently. None work as well as that K-tool unit in Limeys link. If you haven’t used one, you don’t know what your missing. Speed, quality and consistency are most excellent. 

The Titan got a couple of recommendations so I think that's the way I'm gong to go.  The bar type tools are really common so there must be something that works in that design too, but I won't have uses for a kit that supports multiple sizes I'm going for the space savings.  LimeyJeeper's recommendation is no doubt a quality tool but probably a bit of overkill and outside my budget.

[jamespwsullivan]

On 10/21/2022 at 11:53 PM, saveevryjp1998 said:

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/SER165C#reviews

I've been using this for years and love it. I'd recommend practicing each of your flares with scrap before going right at your runs. Get your "sweet spots" down. You can over or under do them if your not about spot on with the directions. After a couple you'll get quite consistent and confident fast after learning it. I've done 3 rear load sensing valve deletes with wj reservoir dual diaphragm conversions now with it front to rear. I've not had one leak or issue after practicing each type of flare first before final setup. 

 

Definitel planning on practicing a lot with both new and old line.