jeeptec1 Posted November 1, 2021 Share Posted November 1, 2021 My 88 Comanche I did the 95/96 power booster upgrade. Well after a couple of years the booster is leaking down vacuum. I just acquired a 97 Cherokee rolling body that stillHas the master cylinder and power booster. Will that one bolt up like the 995/96? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Dan Posted November 1, 2021 Share Posted November 1, 2021 No Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted November 1, 2021 Share Posted November 1, 2021 Why not? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted November 5, 2021 Share Posted November 5, 2021 The bolt pattern is the same as that 95/96 booster. They were the same bolt pattern on XJ’s from 91-01. All 91+ boosters will require some slight mods to the brake pedal connection so your pre 91 brake light switch will work properly. Make sure to hold onto the little aluminum 1/4” spacer that’s behind your booster if you still have it. It will provide the spacing needed for the 97+ booster to clear the pinch seam on the firewall. I run an 01 booster and MC on my 91 MJ. Was a bolt on for me since i have the newer style brake light switch. However, before you go that route, could it be that you just need to replace the check valve in your existing booster? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted November 5, 2021 Share Posted November 5, 2021 And, there's an easy antidisestablishmentarianism to convert the brake light switch to a later style. No fabricating required. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted November 5, 2021 Share Posted November 5, 2021 45 minutes ago, cruiser54 said: antidisestablishmentarianism Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted November 5, 2021 Share Posted November 5, 2021 LOL!! Who did that? Even after that, I'll still gladly share the switch that does it all. Cadillac part I think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeeptec1 Posted November 5, 2021 Author Share Posted November 5, 2021 LOL!! Who did that? Even after that, I'll still gladly share the switch that does it all. Cadillac part I think. Thanks cruiser54 on the tip. That brake switch looks like what I used on my 87 XJ 15 years ago. I did the rod modification on my 88 MJ. I sold my 87 XJ 12 years and have forgotten most of everything Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted November 5, 2021 Share Posted November 5, 2021 Grinding the booster rod for the old style switch was hit and miss. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acfortier Posted November 5, 2021 Share Posted November 5, 2021 Interesting--so if you swap a newer brake booster from an XJ, and don't want to grind down the booster rod, you can replace the switch with that Napa part# above? Got any pictures of it installed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjeff87 Posted November 5, 2021 Share Posted November 5, 2021 You can also use the contact switch from a later model XJ as well. Same concept. There are 6 wires coming from the switch, you only need the two for the light circuit. They are pink/red and white, IIRC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted November 5, 2021 Share Posted November 5, 2021 Correct. Remove the white plastic switch and use the Caddy one in it's place. On another note, the 99 to 2004 Grand Cherokee booster/master is my favorite swap, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted November 5, 2021 Share Posted November 5, 2021 1 minute ago, mjeff87 said: You can also use the contact switch from a later model XJ as well. Same concept. There are 6 wires coming from the switch, you only need the two for the light circuit. They are pink/red and white, IIRC. But you need 4 wires on an auto trans vehicle. 2 for the brake light switch which make contact when the pedal is depressed and 2 to break the contact for power to the torque converter. If that switch works, it would be great to know the wiring colors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasbulliwagen Posted November 5, 2021 Share Posted November 5, 2021 I did the WJ booster in mine, and after messing with grinding the rod for the brake switch and failing, I cut the end off of my original and the WJ and welded my original end to the WJ rod. I also used this opportunity to shorten it slightly to the correct length. Its been working great for years now. Ill have to remember this trick for next time though! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZJeff Posted November 6, 2021 Share Posted November 6, 2021 12 hours ago, cruiser54 said: Correct. Remove the white plastic switch and use the Caddy one in it's place. On another note, the 99 to 2004 Grand Cherokee booster/master is my favorite swap, Cruiser…any advantage to your favorite swap over the classic 95-96 XJ booster/MC? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted November 6, 2021 Share Posted November 6, 2021 Yes. I've done both. First off, availability. Secondly, the WJ booster installs more easily since its mounting studs are small and you don't have to fight it going in. Thirdly, doing the brake lines is easier because you have the flexible lines from the master. Just cut off the hard line, install the fittings from your old lines and put a double flare on the pipe. Fourthly, you don't have to move the washer bottle. the only thing you have to do other than brake light switch and drilling the booster rod is making a little clearance at the body seam. I'll include photos. I noticed that the braking was also stronger with the WJ set-up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyRodder Posted November 6, 2021 Share Posted November 6, 2021 14 hours ago, cruiser54 said: Correct. Remove the white plastic switch and use the Caddy one in it's place. On another note, the 99 to 2004 Grand Cherokee booster/master is my favorite swap, Is there any other rewiring, or is it just remove OE switch -> install OE wires to the correct spot on caddy switch -> install caddy switch to contact brake pedal? I am an electrical dumbass, so that would be helpful here as well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted November 6, 2021 Share Posted November 6, 2021 Yep. Make sure you install/adjust the switch properly so it doesn't get impacted by the pedal and just operates the switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyRodder Posted November 6, 2021 Share Posted November 6, 2021 6 hours ago, cruiser54 said: Yep. Make sure you install/adjust the switch properly so it doesn't get impacted by the pedal and just operates the switch. Well snap, thanks for that! I have a WJbooster/master/lines that I havent installed because of the grinding. Since its that easy, DD booster here I come! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeeptec1 Posted November 6, 2021 Author Share Posted November 6, 2021 Wow my simple question turned intoA great chat about other options other than the 95/96 booster upgrade. Thank you all. EricSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZJeff Posted November 6, 2021 Share Posted November 6, 2021 18 hours ago, cruiser54 said: Yes. I've done both. First off, availability. Secondly, the WJ booster installs more easily since its mounting studs are small and you don't have to fight it going in. Thirdly, doing the brake lines is easier because you have the flexible lines from the master. Just cut off the hard line, install the fittings from your old lines and put a double flare on the pipe. Fourthly, you don't have to move the washer bottle. the only thing you have to do other than brake light switch and drilling the booster rod is making a little clearance at the body seam. I'll include photos. I noticed that the braking was also stronger with the WJ set-up. That makes sense, if you are not starting over, like I did. When you rip out all of old junky parts, doing it from scratch with '96 parts isn't that tough. (and besides, I SO much enjoy flaring brake tubing) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted November 6, 2021 Share Posted November 6, 2021 Who has rear discs also? Or wants to eliminate the factory distro valve? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Airborne Janitor Posted December 12, 2021 Share Posted December 12, 2021 On 11/5/2021 at 7:31 PM, RustyRodder said: Is there any other rewiring, or is it just remove OE switch -> install OE wires to the correct spot on caddy switch -> install caddy switch to contact brake pedal? I am an electrical dumbass, so that would be helpful here as well Just did this today, here's a pic to help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted December 12, 2021 Share Posted December 12, 2021 On 11/4/2021 at 10:24 PM, cruiser54 said: LOL!! Who did that? wow, not sure how I missed this topic but that's an old auto-correct that Rob put in years ago for the kids saying "w.a.t" instead of "what". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted December 12, 2021 Share Posted December 12, 2021 55 minutes ago, Airborne Janitor said: Just did this today, here's a pic to help. Looks good from my house. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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