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Good Morning folks!

 

so an interesting thing happened today. I mean I knew it was rusting, and that there was a crack in the tail in of the muffler itself, and even saw that it had sheared from the tail pipe itself, to which I used some baling wire to keep it from dangling on the back end. These horrible @$$ roads up here in Minnesoduh are just tearing the Bluebird apart.

 

anyway so here I was driving to work hit one of the "repairs" for the road, and the front end of the muffler "pops" off and starts dragging. Of course it's 06:30 in the morning and on a fairly high traffic road and a bear to pull over. Get pulled off the side of the road and take a peak underneath, and lo and behold there the muffler is dangling and dragging on the floor by the baling wire. Undo the baling wire and place everything in the back of the truck. 
 

My question is this, of course after a long story and tale of woe, what us the recommended exhaust system to place back on her?

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The PO of my truck actually used a beer can held on by wire to try and cover a hole.  :doh:

Just got my walker pipe for $50 shipped from Oreilly's and ordered the basic muffler off RA ($16) while I figure out what I want. Should be here this weekend. Most folks seem to use Walker for the pipe and then I suppose it's all about preference for the muffler. Mine is currently dangling  :brows:

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Thank you all for the tips, and if I wanted to spend $700 on a converter these would be great. But the state that I am in and the state I want to move to do not require emission tests.

 

Has anyone been able to use the Walker Exhaust System doing a "Cat-Delete"?

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1 hour ago, Thandraux said:

Thank you all for the tips, and if I wanted to spend $700 on a converter these would be great. But the state that I am in and the state I want to move to do not require emission tests.

 

Has anyone been able to use the Walker Exhaust System doing a "Cat-Delete"?

 

Huh? The correct Walker cat shouldn't be $700.  I think I found it for like $80-90 delivered through Amazon. 

 

But either way, just buy what you need.  The OEM system is 5 separate pieces from the header to the tail pipe. If you don't need a cat then the simplest solution would be to cut the converter out of your oem cat section and weld in straight pipe.  This way you can reuse the flange that mates the cat section to the down pipe.

 

On the opposite end, you can use an exhaust pipe clamp to mate your straight pipe to the inlet of whatever muffler you choose.

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A "cat delete" is a length of straight pipe. On the 4.0L MJs, the cat has a 2-1/2" inlet with a square, 4-bolt flange, and a 2-1/4" outlet. So to make up a cat delete you'll need a flange, a length of 2-1/2" straight pipe, and a 2-1/2" to 2-1/4" reducer.

 

Whether you buy a cat or do a cat delete, you'll need a flange gasket.

 

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17 hours ago, JMO413 said:

IMG_20190611_190011447.jpg.02ec141d5864deac808416f18495683d.jpg

I bought a flange and added a piece of flex pipe where the convertor would have been.

IMG_20190611_180720476.jpg.e385b516d40a27e54d23bba7675e5a36.jpg

Walker down pipe, my convertor replacement, Thrush muffler, and Walker tail pipe. 

 

17 hours ago, JMO413 said:

IMG_20190610_120033851.jpg.90759eeb68f2db7f2375759e3e9bc5d0.jpg

Flange and gasket I used.

 

 

This right here sir, is a beautiful piece of work, and thank you. I was making sure it can be done, and I wouldn't need the damned cat at all.

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21 hours ago, DesertRat1991 said:

 

Huh? The correct Walker cat shouldn't be $700.  I think I found it for like $80-90 delivered through Amazon. 

 

Amazon is the place that I was looking initially, and when you go digging there were some for nearly $800, but it was the $700 one that "fit" the Bluebird, the other in the $100 range had been out of stock, but now there seem to be a few. Still have to wait till next month to order it.

 

I just don't want to get a Cat up here in MN, because there are people literally cutting them from cars/trucks while in parking lots. Had someone at work, go home, shower, get changed for a date, and his converter had been cut from his car, brand new Cat. Apparently they are going for nearly $2,600 on some market, and the crumby looking ones for about $1,000. 

 

Just making sure I'm not buying something I absolutely do not need.

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The downpipe for a ‘93+ 4.0 ends in a straight piece of 2-1/4” pipe instead of a flange to adapt to the cat. It makes it easier to attach to the system as it can just be clamped in instead of needing to weld flanges. It’s what I did on my ‘91 when I replaced the system, but there’s a fuzzy memory about Renix vs HO concerns regarding O2 sensor port locations?

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On 10/7/2021 at 12:16 PM, Pete M said:

any muffler shop can bend ya up something. :L:  

 

Agree with Pete on this one. I didn't see any reason to spend more money on a brand name piece of steel pipe. My opinion of course. :cool:

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While we're on the subject, what are people doing for the 2.5? Specifically for my '91. The tail pipe is available online, but I'm not seeing a down pipe at all, for any year XJ even. Walker's catalogue doesn't even have a part number listed for a 2.5 downpipe. Anyone know if the 4.0 downpipe would work?
I haven't found a Canadian supplier that has the tailpipe in stock, and shipping a long chunk of pipe up from the states is $$$ so I'm probably at a custom build on this anyhow, but I'm just wondering if anyone else has found something.

Seriously it's truck freight only so even RockAuto wants $499.55 just for the shipping :roflmao:

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2 minutes ago, Pete M said:

but you're paying for it one way or the other. :( 

 

living far from civilization is a good reason though.  :laugh:

I mean there's also nothing stopping me from driving to somewhere that is closer to civilization, other than a 2.5 and 4.10's on stock tires with basically no noise suppression. Really the biggest reason is the truck needs almost everything redone at this point, so I'd rather slowly get all the parts lined up to pull it off the road and do everything at once, rather than doing one piece at a time just to pull it back off to do the next.

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On 10/10/2021 at 2:11 PM, gogmorgo said:

The downpipe for a ‘93+ 4.0 ends in a straight piece of 2-1/4” pipe instead of a flange to adapt to the cat.

 

It shouldn't. Jeep used the flange until the middle of the 2000 production year. My late wife's 2000 XJ (November 1999) has the flange. My 2000 XJ (April 2000) doesn't. Both were purchased new, so I know they are both original.

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3 hours ago, Eagle said:

 

It shouldn't. Jeep used the flange until the middle of the 2000 production year. My late wife's 2000 XJ (November 1999) has the flange. My 2000 XJ (April 2000) doesn't. Both were purchased new, so I know they are both original.

:dunno: All I know is when I put a new downpipe on my '91 4.0 about six years ago, if I looked up the pipe for a '91 it had the flange, but the same brand listed for a '93 XJ just ended in a straight bit of pipe. I don't remember off the top of my head what brand it was, though, but I'm pretty sure I got it at Napa.

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