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Limited Slip for a Dana 35? Wasting money?


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I have a 4.7L stroker and I would like a limited slip diff.  Why?  Well I want to do a real burnout from time to time, and think it will help in the snow and if I go off road at some point.  Yes I would love to go with a different axle.  My best case scenario is a 8.25 with limited slip with disks from a Cherokee.  I DO NOT want a narrower axle like the 8.8 and use wheel spacers.

 

The problem I am having is if I go with a different axle I will need a different driveshaft perhaps, new spring perches welded on, new U-bolts and shock mounts, not to mention all new brake lines and hardware inside and out.  I would probably need a different master cylinder and or proportioning valve.  That is a LOT of work and money and downtime for adding a limited slip.

 

My questions are, is limited slip going to be good for an occasional burnout or will it wear out quickly or not lock up the left side at all?  I would love the upgrade, but I don't want to be down a truck for weeks while I get parts and such.  If I could buy one already setup with what I needed I could put brake lines on it.  The reason I am pondering this is because I refurbished the D35 axle with new brake hardware, lines, new driveshaft and U-Joints so changing it seems like a waste, but it looks silly being so tiny and the axle tubes are small.  It also seems to clunk when turning a corner slightly like the C-clip moving inside the carrier.  What would you do?  Is it worth the trouble?  I don't think I want a locker since it will be driven on the street almost exclusively.  

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a posi involves changing carriers, and new gears, and setting up those gears...  I... I can't imagine a bigger waste of money than throwing all that at a 35.  :dunno: 

 

buy an axle that will survive into the future and invest you money into that.  :L: 

 

I would start with a Liberty 8.25 and build that up.  I would also avoid the factory TracLok if at all possible. 

 

I also hate a posi in the snow, but the only posi I ever owned was a 2wd truck, so I haven't experienced both a posi and 4wd at the same time.  :dunno: 

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Look into a Ford Explorer Sport Trac rear end. That is what I have in my truck. It was right around the same width as the factory D35, had drum brakes so the proportioning valve doesn’t need to be changed, and I was able to keep my stock Jeep driveshaft and didn’t need to modify it. 
 

Showing width:
75847F83-739D-45BC-BB32-DB540E7A5069.jpeg.09cec5a73f08516a3f001934d0046716.jpeg
 

Joint needed to add to driveshaft, stock MJ driveshaft, sorry about the bad lighting:

C682F394-59E3-4593-816A-7116BD44F0E8.jpeg.b5b14e3a63044b46f87b32f087a20a9c.jpeg

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Yikes, didn't know it was that involved.  So no Cherokee came with disks so I would have to source that.  I wish I didn't live in the rust belt, junk yards are garbage for chassis parts.  I forgot my E-brake cables are bad as well so there's that.  It looks like I need to find a Cherokee with limited slip and then a Liberty or ZJ with disks and buy everything.  Exhausting because of the junk yards have nothing that old on hand.  I just want to have new parts except for the axle.

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Look into a Ford Explorer Sport Trac rear end. That is what I have in my truck. It was right around the same width as the factory D35, had drum brakes so the proportioning valve doesn’t need to be changed, and I was able to keep my stock Jeep driveshaft and didn’t need to modify it. 
 
Showing width:
75847F83-739D-45BC-BB32-DB540E7A5069.jpeg.09cec5a73f08516a3f001934d0046716.jpeg
 
Joint needed to add to driveshaft, stock MJ driveshaft, sorry about the bad lighting:
C682F394-59E3-4593-816A-7116BD44F0E8.jpeg.b5b14e3a63044b46f87b32f087a20a9c.jpeg
So did you have to enlarge the holes in the U-Bolt shock plates? I am assuming the axle tube is a larger diameter? How does the limited slip work on the street? Are burnouts feasible? I am not talking crazy burnout, just for fun and not embarrassing.

Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk

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23 minutes ago, knever3 said:

So did you have to enlarge the holes in the U-Bolt shock plates? I am assuming the axle tube is a larger diameter? How does the limited slip work on the street? Are burnouts feasible? I am not talking crazy burnout, just for fun and not embarrassing.

Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk
 

My rear axle has 4.10s. 
 

I actually used the Ford shock mounts, just adjusted the shock mount so the tabs would work woth MJ shocks. They just needed to be bent around and one hole slotted. 
 

Mine needs new clutches because it is fairly worn out, but it leaves two black marks. 

F94A9AF6-DFB0-4497-9434-822B58010037.jpeg

B57538CD-795B-4D78-A696-4C9F17B70477.jpeg

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2 minutes ago, Jesse J said:

How come?

The rear end will want to come around if you are turning and give it gas. 
 

Personally, I don’t mind them. I want to find a D44 with an LSD for my Eagle, which I will use in the winter. 

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I'll offer a course of action.

 

I see Comanche off-road builds all over the FB.  Most swap the rear axle to something stronger (8.8, one ton).  There must be original MJ D35s out there.  

 

Buy a left over MJ D35.  Put a good Detroit Trutrac gear driven limited slip diff in it.  3.55 gearing is pretty common, if that's what you want, and that is what it has, find a ring and pinion guy who will take a shot at reusing the gears.

 

You are out the cost of the axle, shipping, a Trutrac, installation/ring&pinion setup, and misc (brakes, u-bolts, new u-joint maybe). 

 

Now you have a bolt in axle, the right width, with limited slip that uses factory brake parts.

 

Save your old axle as a backup if the new one explodes.

 

The downside is you are still throwing money at a D35.  That's a gamble, but for a mostly or all street driven truck on a budget, it's worth a shot.  If it explodes, you have a backup axle and a cool story.  

 

I sold an extra MJ D35 for $100 a couple years ago.  Complete drum to drum.  EDIT: it was missing the brake guts, and had 3.07 gears.

IMG_8307.JPG

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6 minutes ago, Jesse J said:

How come?

 

if you have an open diff, when traction fails, the one tire will spin, but the other acts as a rudder to keep the truck straight.  If both tires spin, you start drifting... usually uncontrollably. 

 

also, snow tires should be used if you want real traction in the snow. :L:   way better than 4wd with regular tires. 

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44 minutes ago, 89 MJ said:

The rear end will want to come around if you are turning and give it gas. 
 

Personally, I don’t mind them. I want to find a D44 with an LSD for my Eagle, which I will use in the winter. 

 

39 minutes ago, Pete M said:

 

if you have an open diff, when traction fails, the one tire will spin, but the other acts as a rudder to keep the truck straight.  If both tires spin, you start drifting... usually uncontrollably. 

 

also, snow tires should be used if you want real traction in the snow. :L:   way better than 4wd with regular tires. 

I see

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Personally, I like have an LSD in the snow, if the front end is not turning as sharp as you want and the rear tires are on snow, you can steer it with the throttle easier. Of course, this isn’t applicable with vehicles with traction control. :hijack:

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I run a built D35. There are some advantages to running one also. I’ve been down the road of axle builds more times than I like to recall. Started with 8.8’s and built several. Then I went to 44’s and built a few of those also. A D44 is a nice axle to build if you have one already (especially an XJ/MJ original) and would like to run 35’s out of the box or 37’s with mods. However, consider this: The D35 is the right width, lightweight and offers the most clearance. The carrier bearings like a fair bit of preload but I have yet to have one break down that I’ve built. And I am by no means conservative when it comes to tapping the power of my built 4.0. Some of the key things to consider are tire diameter diameter AND width. I run metric 33’s which turn out around a 33.5x10.75. I run a truetrac, 27 spline 1541 shafts from Revolution, and a full ZJ disk kit. Pre 90 D35’s are even non-c-clip axles and have the same housing ends as a D44. Most have the same tube diameter and thickness as well. 
The thing to keep in mind is that running 33’s on a D35 is about the same clearance as running 35’s under an 8.8. And you can run 35’s on a D35 with a super 35 kit from Revolution (formerly Superior Axle). Others make copies of that kit also. 35’s on a super 35 is one very nice axle setup. Lots of clearance and a low unsprung weight. And y you could even run 4140 chromo axles in the non-c-clip axles. 1541 in the C-clip ones works great as well. 

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Would a lunch box locker do? I do run Ford 8.8 on my XJs. I don't mind the 8.8 Limited slip in the snow. I will say it does kick out a bit. Though I plan a 241 TC in the future. I have one, I am trying to rebuild. Other projects. I did use spacers on my present XJ. I used extended studs, then cut down a spacers. Thus avoiding the extra set of bolts. In some States spacers are illegal. 

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2 hours ago, Ctwilson1 said:

I get not wanting to throw money at a D35, but if you don’t go with oversized tires or do decent wheeling, a D35 is stout enough imo

 

I stripped gear teeth off my ring and pinion on a 2wd daily driver with 30" tires.  I hate them so much I'm swapping the one out on my MJ trailer.  :laugh:

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20 hours ago, Pete M said:

 

I stripped gear teeth off my ring and pinion on a 2wd daily driver with 30" tires.  I hate them so much I'm swapping the one out on my MJ trailer.  :laugh:

Holy $#!& nevermind then!!! I guess my only experience with it is on my XJ that’s been running 31s and done some moderate wheeling and a helluva lot of DD

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2 hours ago, Ctwilson1 said:

Holy $#!& nevermind then!!! I guess my only experience with it is on my XJ that’s been running 31s and done some moderate wheeling and a helluva lot of DD

 

plenty of 35s out there that are still intact. :L:   can't ignore that.  but upgrade axles are plentiful and pretty cheap so it's hard for me to justify sticking with the 35 and rolling the dice every day.  :(   

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8 hours ago, Pete M said:

 

plenty of 35s out there that are still intact. :L:   can't ignore that.  but upgrade axles are plentiful and pretty cheap so it's hard for me to justify sticking with the 35 and rolling the dice every day.  :(   


I like my D35. There are some advantages to such a light weight axle too. All depends on what the end goal is

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