Best way to pull drivetrain?

[Minuit]

I'm sitting at my desk at 8 PM doing nothing in particular, but I have two major projects coming up that will involve yanking most to all of the drivetrain components out of an MJ. For everything I've done to these trucks, I've actually never pulled an engine or transmission out of one. So - those of you who have done this, what's the best way?

 

I have two scenarios:

 

Assume I own or are willing to purchase any tools to make this easier except for a lift.

 

1) The '91 is currently 2WD. It will be getting a 4WD swap with a 4WD AW4 and NP242 transfer case. I would rather leave the engine in the truck. My question here has more to do with installing the 4WD transmission/transfer case. Is it best to leave the transmission and t-case connected or install them one at a time?

 

Side note: are the torque converters the same for a 2WD and 4WD AW4? Asking in case I need to reuse the 2WD torque converter for some reason.

 

2) The '89 will be getting a complete drivetrain swap. Not sure of the specifics yet, but most likely a good used Renix 4.0 retaining all of the Renix features to make my life easier, and an external slave AX-15 backed up by an NP231. Since I'm basically building this truck from scratch and keeping none of the original parts, is it possible to remove and install the whole engine/transmission/t-case as an assembly from the top? If it is possible, is it easier than installing the engine and then mating the transmission up to it?

 

Any insight is appreciated.

[jdog]

24 minutes ago, Minuit said:

Is it best to leave the transmission and t-case connected or install them one at a time?

 

usually the easiest, but it does make it as a counter weight while trying to install

torque converters should be the same

25 minutes ago, Minuit said:

is it possible to remove and install the whole engine/transmission/t-case as an assembly from the top? If it is possible, is it easier than installing the engine and then mating the transmission up to it?

yes you can do it as all one unit, might have to jack up the vehicle to get the angle for installation.

[Pete M]

do you have a transmission lift?  makes a world of difference.  

[Minuit]

Just now, Pete M said:

do you have a transmission lift?  makes a world of difference.  

I'm sure I'll end up getting one as part of this. Any recommendations?

[Pete M]

I had a HF model many years ago.  worked great hoisting up the MJ trans, not so much when I tried to do the same with the 78 bronco trans/t-case (like twice the weight, maybe more).  messed up the screw.

[jdog]

if your only gonna use it once or twice i'd get one of the harbor freight ones

[89 MJ]

43 minutes ago, Minuit said:

The '89 will be getting a complete drivetrain swap. Not sure of the specifics yet, but most likely a good used Renix 4.0 retaining all of the Renix features to make my life easier, and an external slave AX-15 backed up by an NP231. Since I'm basically building this truck from scratch and keeping none of the original parts, is it possible to remove and install the whole engine/transmission/t-case as an assembly from the top? If it is possible, is it easier than installing the engine and then mating the transmission up to it?

Yes and yes

[ghetdjc320]

In my opinion (pulled and installed about 6 of these setups), I prefer installing the engine and tranny together. That way you can ensure simple things like your cps and bellhousing alignment are spot on before installing. I always put the tcase on separately since they are really easy to install under the truck. Just get a ratcheting box wrench with a swivel for the tcase to tranny nuts. I’d pull the tcase for removal as well. With the radiator crossmember pulled it’s a fairly straight shot and I’ve never needed to jack up the front. Just my $.02

[Limeyjeeper]

Pulling the front clip, radiator, and radiator crossmenber out makes a huge difference to getting the engine, trans and transfer case out in one shot, which is the best way to do it. So much easier

[Pete M]

replacing the top bolts with studs can help with realignment.  

[JMO413]

The harbor freight tranny jack is well worth it's cost. Mine had lifted trans/tcase combo, gas tank, front and rear differentials. Using studs definitely made mine line up nicely.

[eaglescout526]

1 minute ago, JMO413 said:

Using studs definitely made mine line up nicely.

I am sitting in my chair at work in complete dumfounded stupidity wondering why the hell I haven't made any damn studs for the transmission installation process yet. Ive been doing it the He-man shoving and twisting until it sinks in way.  Heavily noted.

[Pete M]

don't need to make them, just go buy some grade 8 fully threaded studs.   (2.5" long?)  they stay with the engine and then just use a nut to secure.