Must have MJ upgrades for a cross country drive?

[omega_rugal]

10 minutes ago, Minuit said:

fixing AMC's weird thoughts on electrical design

 

they really need some good electrical engineers for that... they did a mess with all their vehicles

[jazzyjeeper]

2 hours ago, Minuit said:

Does the FSM you have include the book with the wiring diagrams? You'll need those at some point.

 

Yep, I have the electrical volume that has the wiring diagrams. I just reached out to a buddy who is an electrician so I'm hoping he can help me grasp the electrical theory. Gonna grab those other items for my Cruiser's toolkit, thanks! 

[Pete M]

any multimeter is better than no multimeter, but I do recommend a self-ranging version.    plus the more you spend, the more toys it has for you to play with.   

[JustEmptyEveryPocket]

7 minutes ago, Pete M said:

any multimeter is better than no multimeter

I have to respectfully disagree here. From personal experience I know that a multimeter you can't trust is far worse. This would be the time to learn the lesson of "buy once, cry once." Get the GOOD tool (I recommend Fluke). Otherwise just make a bunch of testlights in different amp ratings and use that. Watch THIS VIDEO for a DIY version test light that is just awesome. That guy/channel is awesome for starting to learn stuff. I would recommend watching each and every video. He does a great job of explaining the thought process, the testing process, and what the results mean. Plus he has a lot of videos on reading wiring schematics and such, along with lots of nuts and bolts videos. This was where things starting to click for me, but YMMV.

 

TL;DR: DO NOT waste money on a crappy multimeter.

 

However, in the end, my advice is worth exactly what you are paying for it.

[jazzyjeeper]

Almost just picked up a multimeter earlier but they were out of stock! So self-ranging = auto ranging right?

 

Fluke like this one?

 

[Minuit]

I'm not so sure that paying the Fluke Tax for a first multimeter is the best advice for someone who's brand new to car electrical work. I'm willing to concede on the $5 cheapo, but I don't think going fully in the other direction is the right choice either. That's about like telling someone who's never so much as changed brake pads before to buy a Snap On socket set or don't bother. Sure the Fluke is the better (maybe even the best) tool, but you can definitely get the job done for less money. If the OP has the finances to pay for a Fluke, by all means get one, but spending $100 or more on a real Fluke isn't an option for everyone. Fluke makes lower priced models, but at that point you're essentially paying for a name. I've had my cheap HF meter since I was a freshman in college and it's still kicking. I'm pretty sure I got it for free with a coupon. Not feature rich or satisfying to use, but it'll tell you whether or not you have 12V and it's small enough to fit anywhere.

 

I would classify auto-ranging as nice to have, but I'd hesitate to call it an absolute requirement. This is basically the "manual vs. automatic transmission" debate of measuring tools. Best if you can turn the auto-ranging off. My go-to mobile multimeter has been the manual-ranging Ideal on the right for years. It's pretty much either on the 20V range or in continuity mode, maybe in current mode once in a blue moon. With a little intuition you can pretty much tell what range you need to be in to make your measurement, but waiting for a slow auto-ranging meter to slooooowly ponder through all of its ranges (seriously, I've used meters where this takes like 10 seconds) to get to the one you actually need is a pain in the @$$. Better auto-ranging meters will do this much more quickly, however.

 

I would say that you should definitely get one that has an auto-off feature in case you forget to turn it off once you're done. I do that all of the damn time.

 

 

[Minuit]

16 hours ago, jazzyjeeper said:

Almost just picked up a multimeter earlier but they were out of stock! So self-ranging = auto ranging right?

 

Fluke like this one?

 

This is the Fluke 101, one of Fluke's cheaper meters made for the Asian market, so it's probably not the industrial-grade brick $#!&house construction that most Fluke meters have. Still a well made tool, but maybe not as "nice" or as well made as others. High voltage safety is probably excellent. Almost certainly a perfectly fine meter for automotive use.

 

The big downside I'm seeing is that meter cannot measure current whatsoever. For me, the most common use for current measurement on cars with a handheld meter is if you're having a problem where your battery goes dead if the truck sits and you need to find out what circuit is causing the problem. It's not a feature you'll miss extremely often for general work, but when you need a meter that measures current you really need it.

 

I'd say buy a mid-level $30 to $70 multimeter with voltage, current, continuity, resistance, and auto-ranging. Do some research, read some reviews, and look for features that you think you might want. If you decide that you find electrical troubleshooting fun or something you do often, you'll start to develop strong opinions on features you like and don't like. I work on radios with a soldering iron that cost almost $300, because there are days where I spend several hours with it in my hand, and that experience led me to have strong opinions on features that I want in a tool I use that often. That's when you start going for the Flukes of the world. For entry level use, I don't think you need to immediately spend $100 or more on a multimeter just to have confidence in it.

[Pete M]

6 hours ago, Minuit said:

I would say that you should definitely get one that has an auto-off feature in case you forget to turn it off once you're done. I do that all of the damn time.

 

 

I can't tell you how many times my meter has gone "beeeep" and I'm like, "what the heck was that"?   

[jazzyjeeper]

Haha. Ok I think I grabbed a good one. Here are my materials so far, in addition to a decent Crescent tool set. I have a can of DeoxIT coming in the mail too. Missing anything else? What kinds of eyelets do folks normally use? Will probably need a few other wires too.

Also going to get a gas can, fire extinguisher, and jack kit for the road. Trying to have an outlook of monetary abundance  hopefully won't regret it later!

 

[jazzyjeeper]

Hah so went to pick up the truck just now, pulled out and drove a few blocks then stalled out, refused to start.

 

The shop had done the following work:

 

- replaced the steering box, old one was shot

- transmission fluid change

- oil change + oil filter

 

They sent someone out to me and they got it going. Said it was probably a bad ignition coil and are going to replace it free of charge. I guess it's better that it happened now and not later.  I reaaalllly want to get to the confidence inspiring stage! Planning on taking it in to another shop for a AAA 40 point inspection (free in socal right now!) hoping to knock out some of Cruiser's tips before that though. Am I being realistic here?

 

 

[Pete M]

you'll be fine.   but always have a backup plan or 2, just in case.   

[JustEmptyEveryPocket]

Gotta start somewhere. Everyone here (at some point anyways) had never worked on a car in any way shape or form. Just gotta pick your project, research the hell out of it, look at your truck, go back to youtube and research some more, plan twice as long as people say it will take + two extra trips to the parts store, and then finally dive in. You only really learn by doing it.

 

So I recommend picking ONE of Cruiser's Tips and getting it done. Then pick another one. Slow and steady.

 

I also recommend you start reading EVERY thread in Tech here at comancheclub.com every night. That was my best tool for learning about these trucks. You won't understand everything right away, but the knowledge will start to soak in if you keep with it.

 

Good luck!

[Pete M]

I would start with refreshing all the grounds.   

[jazzyjeeper]

35 minutes ago, JustEmptyEveryPocket said:

Gotta start somewhere. Everyone here (at some point anyways) had never worked on a car in any way shape or form. Just gotta pick your project, research the hell out of it, look at your truck, go back to youtube and research some more, plan twice as long as people say it will take + two extra trips to the parts store, and then finally dive in. You only really learn by doing it.

 

So I recommend picking ONE of Cruiser's Tips and getting it done. Then pick another one. Slow and steady.

 

I also recommend you start reading EVERY thread in Tech here at comancheclub.com every night. That was my best tool for learning about these trucks. You won't understand everything right away, but the knowledge will start to soak in if you keep with it.

 

Good luck!

Thanks for the encouragement! Definitely have been appreciating all the resources and knowledge this forum has to offer. Yep slow and steady sounds good.

 

 

33 minutes ago, Pete M said:

I would start with refreshing all the grounds.   

 

Yeah! At the top of my list.

[75sv1]

A few things I'd 'upgrade'. The steering box bracket if still stock. I might look into 'the cure' by Ruff Stuff if still stock steering linkage. Its a Delrin spacer, that is suppose to prevent the slight lane change this type of steering sometimes has. Steering Stabilizer new or recent? I'd get some AutoPal head lights if your still stock head lights. They are I think $50 for a pair, with bulbs. They give probably twice the light as stock. Some would go with headlight wiring harness upgrade or both. Both is about 4X the light. It will make a difference. Possibly see deer to avoid. Less strain on eyes if any night time driving. Some also go with LED head lights.   Change differential fluids? Trans fluids? Radiator cap? Yes, radiator cap. 

  Edit: OK 89 so the pressure bottle OK? Or might 'upgrade' to open system.

[jazzyjeeper]

1 hour ago, 75sv1 said:

A few things I'd 'upgrade'. The steering box bracket if still stock. I might look into 'the cure' by Ruff Stuff if still stock steering linkage. Its a Delrin spacer, that is suppose to prevent the slight lane change this type of steering sometimes has. Steering Stabilizer new or recent? I'd get some AutoPal head lights if your still stock head lights. They are I think $50 for a pair, with bulbs. They give probably twice the light as stock. Some would go with headlight wiring harness upgrade or both. Both is about 4X the light. It will make a difference. Possibly see deer to avoid. Less strain on eyes if any night time driving. Some also go with LED head lights.   Change differential fluids? Trans fluids? Radiator cap? Yes, radiator cap. 

 

I believe the steering box bracket is still stock. Looked up "the cure," I would need four of these right? I did have the shop replace inner and outer tie rod ends so I'm assuming they would have changed the linkage? Steering Stabilizer has not been changed. I have some Sylvania xtravision head lights to put in. 

 

Going to ask about differential fluids. Transmission fluid has been changed, and radiator is new so assuming that has a new cap too. Truck is at the shop right now so I can't look to check on things at the moment. 

 

1 hour ago, 75sv1 said:

  Edit: OK 89 so the pressure bottle OK? Or might 'upgrade' to open system.

 

Is the pressure bottle the coolant reservoir? I know the previous owner had issues with overheating. Radiator, water pump, coolant, hoses, and thermostat have been swapped.

I just looked over a "closed to open system" thread and trying to make sure I understand the process, does it mean adding an overflow bottle? Is this difficult to do?

[75sv1]

I believe you need just one of 'the Cure'. I have not used one. I did have that issue though. I upgraded to crossover steering. You don't need to go that route, at least at this time. 

    Pressure bottle is the coolant reservoir in the RENIX system. I'll try and do a search for closed to open. Others may comment. A lot of newer cars have a closed system.   

 

Edit: 

 

I'd try what is pictures with new heater hoses from later XJ. Also, an overflow bottle. 

Driveshaft(s) U-joints? New, greaseable?  I might be tempted to remove the front shaft is 4X4, for the trip. A few more MPG, possibly. Front axle shaft U-joints if 4X4.

[rokinn]

Post some pics of your engine compartment so we know what you're dealing with.

 

http://macsradiatorshop.com/surge-overflow-tanks/replacment-jeep-radiator-fill-tanks-382.html

 

http://macsradiatorshop.com/surge-overflow-tanks/replacment-jeep-radiator-fill-tanks.html

 

The easiest thing is to swap out the current cap on the plastic tank with a volvo cap.  If the air is purged properly from the system, which I would hope to assume is the case since you had a shop do the radiator replacement, then you should be good to go as far as the cooling system is concerned with this cap.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7031396

 

You've done just about everything on the front suspension except the control arms and the steering damper.  The cure is a nice addition but takes a bit of sanding on it to adapt to the Comanche.  It goes on the drag link.

 

The steering damper may have a wallowed out hole on the axle side.  Worth checking.  I had a thick hardened steel washer welded on the forward side of the bracket and it tightened it up plenty sufficiently.  It's also possible to have a new bracket welded on also.

 

Stock steering boxes are innately squirrely in my opinion.  Just the way it is.

[jazzyjeeper]

Stalled again  

 

This time after getting the ignition coil replaced. The shop said it's probably an electrical issue. Had to get it towed this time, so I brought it to my auto electrician. Didn't get a chance to snap pics of the engine compartment. Glad it's getting another look by a professional sooner rather than later I suppose!

 

 

7 hours ago, 75sv1 said:

I'd try what is pictures with new heater hoses from later XJ. Also, an overflow bottle. 

Driveshaft(s) U-joints? New, greaseable?  I might be tempted to remove the front shaft is 4X4, for the trip. A few more MPG, possibly. Front axle shaft U-joints if 4X4.

 

I had the shop check the U-joints, and they didn't think they needed to be replaced. It's a 2WD   

 

Will do some more research on the open cooling system. Thanks y'all!

[jazzyjeeper]

Got the truck back, seems some loose wires were causing it to stall. Here are some pics under the hood.

 

 

 

 

 

Noticed two spots that had small amounts of fluid dripping, after a few hours of sitting in my driveway. On the left photo it was coming down that hose, and not sure where exactly it was dripping in the right, somewhere slightly further back. Is this something to worry about? Also noticed they put a Fram oil filter in at the shop, tbh I don't know much about oil filters but took note that Frams don't have a great reputation around here. Is it worth changing out?

 

     

 

 

I watched some videos on switching from a closed to open cooling system and don't think that's the kind of thing I have the experience to do right now in my limited time frame. So I reserved one of the Volvo caps from Napa, thanks for the tip @rokinn .  Meeting up with another CC member this weekend to look over things together 

 

 

 

[rokinn]

The top end Fram is supposedly decent but it's doubtful the shop put one of those on.  You can pick up a Napa Gold one (what I would do) when you get the volvo cap there.  I suggest taking your truck to a car wash and cleaning out the engine bay.  The closer the better so your engine isn't too hot or let it cool for a bit before.  Use the spray that comes out of the nozzle without pulling the trigger for the top side.  The bottom you can use the full pressure.  It will be a lot easier to track your oil leaks that way.  I do this periodically with no problems.  The one on the drivers side looks to be dripping off of the power steering hose.  You can try tightening the hoses, or it could be coming from the cap.  Just keep it full.  The other side could be the oil pressure sender, the distributor, iirc there is a seal for the oil filter housing, or it could be the rear main seal as well.  Or all of the above, as it was with mine.  Leave the rear main for last.  Could be a leak coming from the oil filler cap also.  They all tend to migrate to the back.  The oil leaks don't appear to be huge however so can wait also so I wouldn't worry.  Check your oil level regularly when on the road.  Take some power steering fluid with you also.

 

Good to have another Comanche owner check things out with you.  If you come through Loveland, CO give a holler. 

[jazzyjeeper]

7 hours ago, rokinn said:

The top end Fram is supposedly decent but it's doubtful the shop put one of those on.  You can pick up a Napa Gold one (what I would do) when you get the volvo cap there.  I suggest taking your truck to a car wash and cleaning out the engine bay.  The closer the better so your engine isn't too hot or let it cool for a bit before.  Use the spray that comes out of the nozzle without pulling the trigger for the top side.  The bottom you can use the full pressure.  It will be a lot easier to track your oil leaks that way.  I do this periodically with no problems.  The one on the drivers side looks to be dripping off of the power steering hose.  You can try tightening the hoses, or it could be coming from the cap.  Just keep it full.  The other side could be the oil pressure sender, the distributor, iirc there is a seal for the oil filter housing, or it could be the rear main seal as well.  Or all of the above, as it was with mine.  Leave the rear main for last.  Could be a leak coming from the oil filler cap also.  They all tend to migrate to the back.  The oil leaks don't appear to be huge however so can wait also so I wouldn't worry.  Check your oil level regularly when on the road.  Take some power steering fluid with you also.

 

Good to have another Comanche owner check things out with you.  If you come through Loveland, CO give a holler. 

 

Cool, picked up a Napa Gold oil filter earlier and the cap. Just realized that the cap they gave me is a different part number, just called and they told me #BK 703-1856 superseded #BK 703-1396. When comparing specifications, the new one they gave me is the same except it is vented whereas the 1396 was not vented. This seems like an issue, right? Should I have them order in the 1396?

 

   

 

Also haha a garden hose should do the trick for the engine bay, right? I have a nozzle with both low and hi pressure.

 

 

[rokinn]

Vented doesn't seem to me like the right part given we have a closed system.  Give the hose a shot, it can only help.

[pizzaman09]

I did a similar drive, I purchased a 88 4.0L 5 speed 4x4 sport truck in Los Angeles and drove it to Western Pennsylvania over a hot early summer week.  Truck had 176k miles on it at the beginning of the trip.  I had no knowledge of MJs when I bought it, wasn't even planning to buy one, but I knew the 4.0 would be up for he trip if it ran at all.  I only had one little issue on the 3000+ mile drive home.  The crank case ventilation pumped the intake with oil in Kansas.   $6 spend at the small town auto store had me on my way.  I was super impressed.   If I'd done the trip again, I'd have found some wheels that weren't bent and didn't wobble.  

 

Your truck sounds like it's needed more work, but once you get it sorted, point east and enjoy the drive!

[jazzyjeeper]

5 hours ago, pizzaman09 said:

I did a similar drive, I purchased a 88 4.0L 5 speed 4x4 sport truck in Los Angeles and drove it to Western Pennsylvania over a hot early summer week.  Truck had 176k miles on it at the beginning of the trip.  I had no knowledge of MJs when I bought it, wasn't even planning to buy one, but I knew the 4.0 would be up for he trip if it ran at all.  I only had one little issue on the 3000+ mile drive home.  The crank case ventilation pumped the intake with oil in Kansas.   $6 spend at the small town auto store had me on my way.  I was super impressed.   If I'd done the trip again, I'd have found some wheels that weren't bent and didn't wobble.  

 

Your truck sounds like it's needed more work, but once you get it sorted, point east and enjoy the drive!

 

Nice! And thanks!


Met up with @CoastChief yesterday and we took a look under the hood. He made some helpful recommendations, including convincing me to switch to the open cooling system. So taking it to a shop tomorrow to get that and a few other things taken care of. Wish I could do it myself  one day I'll be skilled enough to know how. I just about overheated on my way home in the 99 degree sun, about 9 miles on surface roads. 

 

Some other little things:

 

\

Does this look like the complete spare holder? Can I trust that cable?

 

 

And this was in the cab. Jack stand? Does this look useable? Is a handle supposed to go on there?

 

 

Aaand lots of wires covered in coolant. I grabbed five new relays but feel like I am missing a few.

 

 

I'm hoping to take the truck for a test drive to northern California next week, wish me luck!!!