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Dana 44 swap candidates (rodeo/passport axles)


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@Pete M Has asked me to post this here for reference. I wrote a thread several years back on Jeep Forum regarding the Dana 44 axles from Isuzu Rodeos and Honda Passports. I picked up several of these axles as well as a new JK Dana 44 and a few Ford 8.8’s. I was building and selling these axles at the time and there was a lot of confusion regarding these axles. Most think of the Dana 44’s that were in XJs and TJs which were not the strongest iterations of this axle. The JK debuted a Dana 44 HD with stronger internals, axle tubes and brakes. Although I don’t have one of these axles in my MJ I ran them for several years in my YJ with a stroker and 35’s. Took it to Moab and anywhere ese I could wheel. These axles are extremely stout for their size. Several other run them on Jeep forum now and use them easily with 37’s with zero mods and zero problems. These are a great alternative to the 8.8 for many reasons which can be saved for future discussion. Anyways here is the information I wrote on JF: 

 

I have been doing a lot of research on the Dana 44 from the rodeos/passports. They seem to be a good swap candidate for CJ's and wranglers. The 4wd models mostly came with factory disks but the 2wd models still have Dana 44's but typically use drum brakes. There are two different models of this axle available depending on the year. Here are some of the specs below:
UPDATE: The bolt pattern can be changed to a 5 on 4.5 by a reputable machine shop but the hub size of the axle shaft/rotor center bore is 3.75" so there is not much room to drill this pattern. The next issue would be the center bore of your wheels fitting. 93-95 Rodeo/Passport Dana 44 93-94 only had dana 44 with the v6 95.5 may have a different axle 58" WMS to WMS 4.10, 4.30 & ??? Available (all use thick cut gear sets with 3.73 and down carriers) 12.3" Disk brakes standard on all 4x4's Leaf sprung SUA No shock mounts welded to axle Standard d44 pinion yoke can be used 6 on 5.5 bolt pattern (not safe to redrill due to hub size) 3" .25 axle tubes that do not appear to neck down at all.Set10 Bearings used on axle shafts 96-97 Passport/Rodeo Dana 44 60.5 WMS Perfect YJ/TJ Swap No 4.10 gears available in these two years 4.30 for 6Cyl and 4.56 for most 2wd 4cyl applications (Rare) All 4.30 Ratio rears had Disk Brakes. Only the 4.56 came with drums 2.75 Axle Tubes that neck up to 3.25 just before the brake backing plates to accommodate the bearings Set10 Bearing All use Standard size Dana 44 gears that are thick cut on a 3.73 and down carrier 30 Spline Axle shafts 98+ Passport/Rodeo Dana 44 63" WMS Coil Sprung Available in 4.10, 4.30 & 4.56 (Rare) Uses JK style HD Dana 44 R&P 3.73 and numerically lower carrier for all gear ratios Thick cut Ring and oversized pinion8.9" Ring Gear Dana 60 Yoke fits on stock pinion JK Wheel bearings and seals are the same part# as rodeo/passport and fit 6 on 5.5 pattern

 

Will try to pull pics from my research in a bit. Please feel free to reach out for any question regarding this swap or more axle details. 
 

Thanks!

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5 hours ago, benjy_26 said:

Do you think TJ Rubicon shafts would fit (in order to make this 5 on 4.5)? 

That’s a good question but I’d think not. The axle bearings and axle flange offset would all likely be off.

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  • 6 months later...
On 12/4/2020 at 1:31 PM, Swampy said:

Does anyone happen to know the length of the axle shafts in a 98+ rodeo/passport rear axle?

 

 

 

I can't even find an answer using google.  :dunno:  they are a different part number than earlier shafts though.  what brings on this particular question?

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7 hours ago, Pete M said:

 

 

I can't even find an answer using google.  :dunno:  they are a different part number than earlier shafts though.  what brings on this particular question?

Was just curious if there was a 5 lug shaft available.

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33 minutes ago, Swampy said:

Was just curious if there was a 5 lug shaft available.

When I was building a 95 rodeo axle I called Dutchman axle and they sent me a set of chrome shafts for it but the shaft specs they had were wrong. The issue is the center bore on the drum/disk. It’s to large to drill the 5 on 4.5 pattern. Options are 2 piece wheel adapters (i ran a set from ez accessories for about $200 that worked great) but you’d add a fair amount of width. You could also do custom axle shafts and rotors but that’s also pricey and a pain. I recommend converting the from to 6 on 5.5. The old Reid knuckles used to work great for this but ultimately a waggy front is what you want. They are some beefy axles and you can throw in some warn hubs. The D52 calipers fit right on them and they are just a nice all around axle to work with. If you want to stick with stock wheel patterns than an 8.25 is my recommendation. Not keen on the exploder 8.8. I’m running a super 35 with a tnt truss and am loving the clearance and strength on 33’s. Guys around here are running 14 bolts on 35’s or bald 37’s and I have so much more clearance under my axles. 8.8 is narrow, thin walled, small brakes, oversized pumpkin c clip axle. Imho they can stay in the junkyards but several have had good success with them. I would consider building one if I wanted to run 37’s on some nice stock pattern wheels I already had (like some Method or Raceline beadlocks). Otherwise I’d drop in another 98+ Rodeo/passport axle and a waggy front end. 

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  • 2 weeks later...
1 hour ago, 89 MJ said:

If I keep my Ugly Truckling, I might need to look into one of these rear ends to swap in. How do these compare in strength to an 8.8?

Roughly the same more or less.  They're both 1/2 ton truck axles.  The Chrysler 8.25 is in the same general league.

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  • 2 years later...
3 hours ago, Ihadajeeponce said:

@ghetdjc320 I found this thread on a google search about these axles and would like to ask you some more questions about the 98+ axles but I don't have enough posts to message you.  

 

I just wanted to verify what years JK style R&P from, all of them?

 

Thanks!

Pretty much all JK 44s as long as they had the 8.9” ring gear. The JK 44 all had the 8.9” ring gear as far as I know. The only real differences are in the carriers and axle shaft spline counts with the rubicon axles. 

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  • 1 year later...

Just joined and will PM when it lets me.. seems to think I already sent 1 message/ No worries .. so will add small question here. The 98-02 axle is 63"  but its (30.5 / 32.5) off centered pinion. The prior years 95-97 seem to be actually centered.. Did you, does one, have to compensate for this? I don't see a real issue with cutting driver side down to match the 30.5 other than finding axle shafts for the 98-02 seems to be impossible.. I'm going to have to cut all the brackets off to switch it to leaves so shortening one side wouldn't be that terrible..  Thank you in advance and thank you for posting all the information you did.

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On 3/19/2024 at 10:21 AM, Lars-S said:

Just joined and will PM when it lets me.. seems to think I already sent 1 message/ No worries .. so will add small question here. The 98-02 axle is 63"  but its (30.5 / 32.5) off centered pinion. The prior years 95-97 seem to be actually centered.. Did you, does one, have to compensate for this? I don't see a real issue with cutting driver side down to match the 30.5 other than finding axle shafts for the 98-02 seems to be impossible.. I'm going to have to cut all the brackets off to switch it to leaves so shortening one side wouldn't be that terrible..  Thank you in advance and thank you for posting all the information you did.

I wouldn’t be that worried about the pinion being off centered. The Ford 8.8 is the same way and I’ve got one of those in my truck. 

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On the Ford 8.8, the width is about 1.5 inches less than a Dana 35 or 8.25. So, either spacers or the Yukon axle kit. The Yukon kit 'upgrades' to a floating axle. Some say it nears the strength of a Ford 9. Also, they are drilled for 5 on 4.5 and 5 on 5.5. I do have an ISUZU and a Waggy for my MJ. The Waggy is a bit wider. 

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7 hours ago, 89 MJ said:

I wouldn’t be that worried about the pinion being off centered. The Ford 8.8 is the same way and I’ve got one of those in my truck. 

My logic: the line back from front to rear of drive train should be a straight line. It doesn't need to be centered between rails but should be parallel to them. This because it's just a horizontal version of the vertical pinion angles we need to get correct for vibration and longer bearing/ujoint life. If it deviates a tad (1/2" ?) no biggie but I worry that more than that 'it' combined with the driveshaft angles changing as axle moves up and down might create problems.  

 

There are a lot of UT's on making the 8.8 equal by cutting it.. not sure if they are to help get it centered or to narrow overall width using stock axles.

 

21 minutes ago, 75sv1 said:

I do have an ISUZU and a Waggy for my MJ. The Waggy is a bit wider. 

The 95-97 Isuzu's are I believe centered but the 98-02's got the slight offset.. I'm not positive on this I don't have others to compare. That's why I was questioning about the 98-02 versions.

What year is your Isuzu out of?

 

OH and thanks all

 

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Having an offset is a non-issue unless it exceeds around 4-5*. Equal length axle shafts will give you an offset pinion and vice versa. Many axles are this way from factory and their drivetrains are not offset. U joints need a little bit of offset or else the caps fail to pivot at all and they seize.

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25 minutes ago, ghetdjc320 said:

Having an offset is a non-issue unless it exceeds around 4-5*. Equal length axle shafts will give you an offset pinion and vice versa. Many axles are this way from factory and their drivetrains are not offset.

Since you put a 98-02 Isuzu D44/226 in your vehicle did you just keep it stock, except for location of perches ?

 

Do you happen to know if the earlier 93-97 axle shafts will go into the D44/226 housing? I ask since if I shorten it on one side I might be able to use one of those. Finding 98-02 D44/226 axle shafts is difficult here.. Option is to find another housing and pull them. 

Thank you for your reply

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