Lars-S

This attachment shows the various pieces / stages from just pumpkin with tubes to with wheels and tires mounted. Its easy for me to vary where the end of the tubes are (length) and then everything else automatically shifts as well. Likewise by using a table/spreadsheet it is easy to try different tire/wheel sizes including changing offsets/backspacing.. Makes me feel like I'm getting something done :) while waiting to do actual work and best of all not spend $$$

Just in case FYI stuff : Further actual work on my 01 Isuzu Dana 44(226) isn't going to be happening in the near future.. due to life priorities that said I have been doing lots of procrastination research and picking up pieces here and there when something hits low $ price points in my budget. It seems getting new standard axles is not an option as neither Isuzu, Honda, or others offer them anymore. I was happy to find that the same axle is used regardless of side of differential it is being put in.. I like that as then one can carry just one replacement if traveling or in outback. One thing I can afford is using free software programs.. I have made a 3D axle assembly of the components for a rear axle assembly with wheels and tires.. It allows trying different size tires, wheels, offsets, backspacing to see where everything ends up.. I made it so the axle tube lengths can be changed with any of those combinations to likewise see impacts.. I also have been playing with switching it to full floater.. My current 3D scenario uses Waggie/Chevy front spindles & hubs.. The design is bolt on versus welded or using the D60 style weld on ends.. I originally thought of using them but I prefer being able to replace a spindle fairly easily if something happens.. Again just hypothetical FYI alert

Thanks .. seems yes that is what it is.. supposedly they used to just use RTV but that was a nuisance so a simple made to size O ring was installed instead in later years.. Since it no doubt is silicone rubber and with its location inboard it shouldn't be impacted by welding of the tubes to help prevent their spinning. Guess the threads that seem to be there are for potential adjusters in some M226's, like the Titans, but not in the Isuzu/Honda since the caps don't have the retainers to keep them from spinning once tightened. ?? I still need to get a mirror to see what the granular feeling stuff is on one side of tube but may just be that top portion of O ring was nicked up (the chunks) with axle removal replacement perhaps to do wheel bearings.

Been working on (ok procrastinating lol) how to proceed with this axle .. including potentially making it FF using F250/Waggie/Chevy front spindle/hubs .. I yanked the Trac Loc out to replace the clutches (and redo bearings).. After I did I saw small angular bits that are rubber or silicone.. they were just the other side of diff bearing caps going towards tubes.. I also found what appears to be silicon/rubber O rings in the diff just the other side of those bearings.. I can't find any parts diagrams or rebuild kits that shows or mentions these.. I have not idea why they would even be there.. nothing would seal against them or even come close to touching them.. I need to get an inspection mirror but I ran my fingers on the underside of the casting portion that is next to where bearing caps are and can feel rough silicone rubber (where those angular bits came from?? Anyone run into these oddities .. Photo shows bits lying next to O ring both are just where tubing ends inside pumpkin housing. O ring is the center bits next to and on top of it.. probably about 1/16" chunks up to 1/8"

Thanks .. yes the 96-97 is nice in it's width, equal shafts, having leaf perches, and it does have the thick(vette) D44 gears .. I went with having to remove a ton of coil spring related brackets, needing to add perches, offset pinion, unequal shafts, and wider wms to wms to get the D226 center and big tubes. Having a 8.9" ring gear and the beefy pinion shaft seemed worth the extra needed work. Thanks again for all feedback.

My main concern is the offset since moving engine trans isn't going to happen. Shortening one side is much more doable than trying to make other side longer hence my leaning toward shorter wms to wms It is windy and below freezing so not going outside to take measurements so did some trigonometry on hypothetical driveshaft lengths. If the offset is 2" and the DS is 25" long that gives an offset angle of 4.59*. If OS is 2" but DS is 36" long then angle is down to 3.189.. Both cases are under 5* and I'm fairly sure LOL my DS isn't only 25" long. PS I did find couple of shafts cheap so technically could add to one side or delete from other but waiting to hear from DS builder if up to 2" of OS isn't an issue.

Since you put a 98-02 Isuzu D44/226 in your vehicle did you just keep it stock, except for location of perches ? Do you happen to know if the earlier 93-97 axle shafts will go into the D44/226 housing? I ask since if I shorten it on one side I might be able to use one of those. Finding 98-02 D44/226 axle shafts is difficult here.. Option is to find another housing and pull them. Thank you for your reply

My logic: the line back from front to rear of drive train should be a straight line. It doesn't need to be centered between rails but should be parallel to them. This because it's just a horizontal version of the vertical pinion angles we need to get correct for vibration and longer bearing/ujoint life. If it deviates a tad (1/2" ?) no biggie but I worry that more than that 'it' combined with the driveshaft angles changing as axle moves up and down might create problems. There are a lot of UT's on making the 8.8 equal by cutting it.. not sure if they are to help get it centered or to narrow overall width using stock axles. The 95-97 Isuzu's are I believe centered but the 98-02's got the slight offset.. I'm not positive on this I don't have others to compare. That's why I was questioning about the 98-02 versions. What year is your Isuzu out of? OH and thanks all

Just joined and will PM when it lets me.. seems to think I already sent 1 message/ No worries .. so will add small question here. The 98-02 axle is 63" but its (30.5 / 32.5) off centered pinion. The prior years 95-97 seem to be actually centered.. Did you, does one, have to compensate for this? I don't see a real issue with cutting driver side down to match the 30.5 other than finding axle shafts for the 98-02 seems to be impossible.. I'm going to have to cut all the brackets off to switch it to leaves so shortening one side wouldn't be that terrible.. Thank you in advance and thank you for posting all the information you did.