eaglescout526 Posted October 11, 2023 Author Share Posted October 11, 2023 So in my adventures of the NP229 I decided I needed to address the issue of shifting in the t-case. I finally got it all apart but before I got it apart I noted that it was very clean inside but it still was having an issue shifting. I think it is the shaft that the linkage arms on the outside and inside attach to that are giving issues and not rotating as smooth as it should. Also here's my special little hell I created on accident: These are the needle bearings for the gears that the forks slide back and forth to shift from 2wd-4wd and hi to lo. And yes all are there to my surprise and was able to sigh in relief. Gonna be fun to put back together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle_SX4 Posted October 11, 2023 Share Posted October 11, 2023 The same thing happened to me when I rebuilt the NP229 I put in my Eagle. I had some sticky transmission assembly grease I used to put all those roller bearings back in place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eaglescout526 Posted October 11, 2023 Author Share Posted October 11, 2023 22 minutes ago, Eagle_SX4 said: had some sticky transmission assembly grease Funny enough, the FSM calls for petroleum jelly to help hold the rollers in place when rebuilding but that’s also great to know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle_SX4 Posted October 11, 2023 Share Posted October 11, 2023 Yeah I had some left over after I rebuilt an automatic transmission and I figured since they use auto trans fluid it would be just fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eaglescout526 Posted October 22, 2023 Author Share Posted October 22, 2023 Got the NOS charcoal canister bracket mounted and the relay center bracket in place. I do have plans to paint it but not right now. Oh and that is a NOS EGR purge solenoid too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eaglescout526 Posted November 18, 2023 Author Share Posted November 18, 2023 Got the first set of needle bearings on, tough to do, grease helped alot, had to apply more as some kept falling off. And now I am finished with the hardest part of this rebuild. I am hoping that it will shift through everything like it should. . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eaglescout526 Posted December 24, 2023 Author Share Posted December 24, 2023 Ok so I lied about having the t-case done back in november. It actually wasnt done. I got it close to being together, I tested the shifting and spinning of the gear train and it was tough as all hell. Well I learned I should have taken it apart and built it the way the FSM specifies to do it, duh but I didnt because I saw I could take a short cut that I couldnt take unless I got the planetary gear aligned with the teeth down at the bottom(input shaft) of the case. Which I couldnt make happen no matter what I did until I took it apart the FSM way and reassembled. That being said it now sits awiting the halves to be mated. But I had to get this done: This was scary as all hell to do. Not like I can go get an NP228/9 case half these days. But I did this very carefully, matched threads and drilled undersize before getting to the right size, I have drilled oversize before and would rather drill under than over from what I have learned. So that is the fluid sensor for the system sentry in place and ready to read the level of the t-case once it is full of fluid. Next is to get the engine harness installed and start setting stuff up in the engine. I have come across something interesting with this harness. It is an 89 harness so it is clean and C101 free, but it has a connector C104 by the RH shock tower. I disconnected the one on my MJ and it prevents my truck from starting. I looked at the electrical manual and found it in a couple places with all 8 of the pins being used but yet none relate to starting. Couple are for AC, 4WD indicators, temp sensor and tach, yet nothing related to the starter. Gonna be fun to figure out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted December 24, 2023 Share Posted December 24, 2023 30 minutes ago, eaglescout526 said: but it has a connector C104 by the RH shock tower. I disconnected the one on my MJ and it prevents my truck from starting. C104_G Starter Relay (coil) GND Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eaglescout526 Posted December 24, 2023 Author Share Posted December 24, 2023 14 minutes ago, Ωhm said: C104_G Starter Relay (coil) GND I did find that one and tried to start my truck with that ground connected and no dice. I figured out that it needs the coil signal to the tach to start as well. C104_A is also most likely why she wouldnt start. SO translating that from the 84 harness to the 89 harness should be fun. Just don't know if I should keep using the sealed metri-150 or go with something AMC would use in 84 which would be a weatherpack. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eaglescout526 Posted January 19 Author Share Posted January 19 On 12/23/2023 at 8:22 PM, eaglescout526 said: I did find that one and tried to start my truck with that ground connected and no dice. I figured out that it needs the coil signal to the tach to start as well. C104_A is also most likely why she wouldnt start. SO translating that from the 84 harness to the 89 harness should be fun. Just don't know if I should keep using the sealed metri-150 or go with something AMC would use in 84 which would be a weatherpack. Ok funny thing about this. I was a dingus and had the wrong ground connected. I now figured out that if I jumped the two grounds or even jumped the ground at the starter relay this way, it will run. Everything else isn’t entirely necessary. i found there are two AC related wires, coolant sensor(cluster), tach signal(cluster), up shift lamp, reverse lamps and 4wd light are at this plug including ground. So I have that figured now. Just waiting on the other half of the harness now haha. Which brings me to here Getting closer. This is the early 86 Renix relay bracket. So you see the starter relay, fog lamp lamp relay, O2 relay, fuel pump relay and the diag connectors. I used the old diag connector bracket holder, drilled two holes into the relay bracket to hold these connectors. I say it looks pretty well actually. Added two missing wires from when I yanked out the engine wiring. Added the alt wire and ignition wire. I might be missing one or two more but won’t know yet. I also know I need to tie in power to the ECU from an old yellow splice on the main harness. Next will be labeling the system sentry wires and where they go and what all plugs I will need to replace. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eaglescout526 Posted January 22 Author Share Posted January 22 Plot twist! I found the harness I need. I have had it all along lol. PSA everyone, go through your Jeep crap! Never know what you have. Now to dissect this harness so I can have the wiring I need and get it all routed and together and I can move forward with installing the manifolds. This is really interesting to do. I have been studying the hell out of the 84, 85, 86 and 88 electrical manuals to make sure I get everything to line up properly. Which it all should now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eaglescout526 Posted February 18 Author Share Posted February 18 What a mess!! But I have most of it sorted. It was a lot worse before. I hate this AC hose routing though. The hell were they thinking in 84? Any ways the only stray wire is that blue one with a tracer right there on the fender by the rubber stop. Oh and the wiring for the automatic leveling compressor and trans harness but that will be taken care of at a later time. I am missing a new positive battery cable for both the relay and starter, and the start signal for the plug, relay and solenoid. Manifold is in now. And still have a wiring mess. Thats all the system sentry. Had to label the plugs and figure it all out. The smart move is AMC just grounded all the level sensors to one ground. Now to do some serious cable management here. But I am damn close now. Had to fight a bolt when installing the manifold, of course! Looking at these pics, I think I understand why AMC took the whole wire routing to the front behind the grill vs the firewall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eaglescout526 Posted March 2 Author Share Posted March 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eaglescout526 Posted March 2 Author Share Posted March 2 Massive update to go with the pic. So first thing, this is wired up correctly. Now the fun part that I dont know is why the lights go off in the run position but are on in the off position. I have a theory and it could be linked to the engine off wire and not getting that signal. Fuel pump primes and I can hear it which is great news. It sounds weak and I dont know if thats due to the pump being just old or I have some other issue somewhere. I kinda suspect I didnt sink the terminal in place but I swear I did, I will double check that. Everything else seems to be up and working minus the auto leveling as thats unplugged. I did plug in the ECU, that seems to be working. I did only one test and that was to the TPS and it is outputting 5V like it should. This is so god damn EXCITING!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted March 2 Share Posted March 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Salvagedcircuit Posted March 2 Share Posted March 2 Woah boy talk about a rare unicorn! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eaglescout526 Posted March 2 Author Share Posted March 2 17 hours ago, Salvagedcircuit said: Woah boy talk about a rare unicorn! Indeed!! And it seems to be functioning like it should be. Now the lights are working like they should per the FSM, helps to ground the level sensors haha. Whats odd is the sentry remains on in the key off position. I guess once I get to the point where I am able to get him running and driving, I will be able to figure out more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eaglescout526 Posted March 5 Author Share Posted March 5 What a F---in mess!! And I dont even have the vac harness set up yet! Haha. Heres some more progress I have been making. I should be ready to drop the trans in the next week to replace the flywheel and bell house. I am making head way with the sentry. I am understanding it little by little. It seems when I remove the positive cable and mess with one of the floats, and then put the cable back on, it will show the light for that fluid off. Right now only PS and brake light will turn off. Brake light I just topped off and the PS I simply flipped it upside down. I dont know why the other two wont, but the system is looking for resistance values. These floats I have simply could be on off switches. I do have an AMC one I could test and see if it also has resistance or not. But heres the update. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eaglescout526 Posted March 12 Author Share Posted March 12 https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiQ3QjzZaCUzq1bbqUUHGM-HgVbK GREAT SCOTT!!! IT WORKS!!!!!! (the only way I can share an iPhone video) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted March 14 Share Posted March 14 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Salvagedcircuit Posted March 14 Share Posted March 14 Woah my! The lights sure are fancy Nice job! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eaglescout526 Posted March 15 Author Share Posted March 15 Thanks guys and they really are! what’s bad is it was just an unplugged plug to the module that was stopping it from functioning haha. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eaglescout526 Posted March 18 Author Share Posted March 18 Well I got the trans and t-case down and out. Turns out I can’t use my NP229. So now I’m back to hunting for a 228 or 9 from an XJ. I managed to get the old bell off and flywheel, nothin hard there. Got the fuel injection wheel on and test fitted the new bell and use the right bolts as the two bell houses are different in the manner of the bolts used and obviously the CPS hole. That being said, for some reason the CPS is sitting really really close to the signal teeth, like both bolts in and moving the flywheel will break it close. I dont know why but I’m just gonna leave one bolt hold the CPS so I don’t damage it. The flywheel and bell are from the same engine so I am unsure as to why this is but it’s something I can live with. Got the new starter in too. Made a new signal wire from the relay to the ECU and starter. Put power to the XJ, bumped the key to engage the starter and holy crap did it work!! This means my wiring is correct! It’s very tempting to plug in the CPS though and have it fire off…but I’ll wait a moment for that as I’m waiting on a new clutch disc since I’m already here. I have a short clip of me engaging the starter and cranking it for a couple seconds. It seems like everything is working as I did smell gas from the throttle body area. Anywho that’s this weekends update. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle_SX4 Posted March 18 Share Posted March 18 What is wrong with the 229 you have? Is it the clocking of the tail housing? I had to drill new holes in the back half of the case to clock the tail housing to get the proper angle on the speedometer cable for my Eagle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eaglescout526 Posted March 18 Author Share Posted March 18 11 minutes ago, Eagle_SX4 said: What is wrong with the 229 you have? Is it the clocking of the tail housing? I had to drill new holes in the back half of the case to clock the tail housing to get the proper angle on the speedometer cable for my Eagle. It’s actually too big. It’s meant for an SJ but when I bought it, I was thinking AMC and thought, well I can’t see them making different sizes for the full size and compact so it should fit. I put my 207 next to it, measure the spacing between the studs and measured the input shaft width and well they’re close but not enough to install. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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