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So here is a primer on building a long lasting wiring harness. You will need non adhesive Vinyl wiring harness wrapping tape and Tesa 51036 harness wrapping tape. The 51036 can handle higher temps (300F). I then sleeved the harness using Alex Tech high temp split braided sleeving. It can withstand upto 400F. The wire I used was TXL. This is the high temp wire you need for under the hood. You can get in on Ebay for about $20 for 25ft x 8 colors.

 

So the first step is to tape the harness every 6 - 9" this keeps the bundle tight.

 

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Then wrap the vinyl tape around the harness as tightly as you can.

 

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Then wrap the harness using Tesa 51036 tape. Overlapping 50% on each turn.

 

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Then add the split sleeving

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Tape the joints

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Finished harness

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Old Harness

 

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This is not expensive. The connectors and sockets cost more than all the harness protection. The Tesa tape is about $4 a roll. I have used 2 rolls so far. The vinyl tape is about $3 a roll, still on my first roll. The Split Braid sleeving is the most expensive at about $15 for 25ft. You don't have to use it. I have done the front and rear lights, cab to rear harness, Fuel pump harness and the Transfer case harness. Hope this helps somebody tackling a harness project.

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Mounted the Carter Fuel pump P90011 to the newly restored sending unit. It is a perfect fit. Some of their kits don't come with a strainer/filter if not supplied you can use Spectra Part No STR45. For those of you like me that were uncertain which pin on the Carter pump is +12v  here are some pictures. I tested the pump using a 12v power supply to make 100% sure. Use TXL wire for the connection if your originals were nasty like mine. It is gasoline resistant.

 

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Edited by Limeyjeeper
Corrected Fuel Pump Part No
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Novak Engine mounts going in

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Novak Exhaust headers are sweet (and expensive) they couldn't hug the block any closer. Off on Monday for black ceramic coating

 

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Also installed the (7+ Brake master and distribution block. Next the plumbing starts.

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Haven't been able to spend much time on the Comanche. Had to deal with the infamous P0421 code on my LJ. Ended up replacing the CATs. All good now. Anyways, I managed to get the lines done for the brake MC, Front brakes and rear line Installed the refurbed steering column. Next job is to get the gearbox in. Got the JCR steering box bracket which along with the Boostwerks hidden winch mount should keep the gearbox in place. Got a replacement gearbox from RedHead Gears in Auburn, WA. Seems like a quality reman. I have a bunch of stuff at powdercoat. Waiting on the front axle so I can rebuild the front suspension and getting working steering. Need all that in place before I test fit the engine and make sure clearances are all good.

Just for reference these lines have the following connections. All 3/16 tubing.

 

Rear Master Cylinder (MC) to rear port on Proportioning Valve (PV) - M10 x 1.25  bubble flare to 1/2 20 double flare

Front MC to Front top port on PV - M12 1.00 bubble flare to M10 x 1.25 double flare

Rear PV to Front Drivers Caliper - 3/8 24 double flare

Bottom rear PV to Front Passenger Caliper - 3/8 24 double flare

Bottom front PV to Rear lines - 1/2 20 double flare

 

1996 Brake assembly fully plumbed

 

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Managed to test fit the heater box. Can confirm that a 1994 heater box fits an 1989 body.

 

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Also picked up some ducting on Amazon to replace the mangled ones out of the jeep. This is actually pond tubing for plumbing a water fountain. It is the right size (1" ID) and made of PVC by sealproof. It should work, seems flexible enough.

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Got the JCR Steering Box Bracket. Always good quality from those guys. Like the fact it comes with hardware

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Refurbed Steering column in place

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 5/31/2019 at 7:44 PM, Limeyjeeper said:

"I've always been mad, I know I've been mad, like the 
most of us...very hard to explain why you're mad, even if you're not mad..."

 

Over the top build, and I enjoyed the above reference :)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Pulled the axles out today. Getting delivery of the new ones in the morning courtesy of East Coast Gear Supply. Dana 44 in the back, Dana 30 sleeved in the front Truetrac lockers. Now the build can really start.  Front axle is spoken for. Rest is going to the scrapyard tomorrow. Nobody wants a Dana 35!!

 

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New axles arrived. Getting them prepped and ready to go back in.

Specs are 3:54 (gotta keep that V8 low revving at highway speeds. Should be 2,300 at 70), TrueTrac. Disk on D44. D30 sleeved.


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The axles came well packaged on a skid from ECGS

 

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Painted the Front D30 it was gray hammerite. Not really matching anything

 

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Rear D44 ready to go back in

 

Decided to put a double DIN radio into the dash, because I don't have enough to do. I am using an Android 2 Din unit which is considerably shorter than the Kenwood or Panasonic units. They are also slightly narrower and shorter. It is also as light as a feather. looks like I won't need to tear up the defrost vents that sit behind the dash. I will move the vent down along with the heater controls. I only need about another 1/2" or so to make it all fit.

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Got a lot done on the Comanche. Took a while had a bunch of stuff in powder coating. Front and Rear axles are in. Fuel lines are run, Gas tank is in. Brakes are on, Steering is fully installed. Engine mounts are on.

 

Rear axle is in. Might have an issue with shock length. Need to get her on the ground to be sure. ECGS forgot to send the correct bolt plates. They had no shock tabs, so I got a pair from Rustys. Gas tank also installed. If you need the hanger bolts for the tank straps. Summitt has them GMK-2111-749-681. $3.99 each. A lifesaver.

 

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Had them powdercoated.

 

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Front axle is also in. Core 4x4 adjustable control arms.

 

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ZJ Steering components are on. OME steering stabilizer.

 

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Steering box is in. What a bear to install.

 

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Using the support bearing in the Boostwerks hidden winch kit. It supports the bottom of the gearbox shaft in a bearing. Pretty nifty.

 

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Wilwood brakes are on. Used pre 1990 knuckles. Kit fits really well. Only issue is that they use a 1/8 NPT fitting for the brake line not a banjo fitting. So the cool Crown brake lines will need to be replaced.

 

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Bolt the adapter bracket to the knuckle install the rotor, shim the caliper bracket, to ensure it is centered on the rotor. Shim the caliper to make sure the top of the pads are flush with the rotor and voila. No clearance problems with a 16" Moab wheel.

 

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Brake and fuel lines are on. Corvette fuel regulator is installed. It controls the return flow to the tank. One less line to run to the front. Only lines are the fuel and the tank vent line going to the charcoal canister.

 

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Fuel, brake and vent line installed.

 

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Engine mounts are in.

 

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Next on the list, Radiator, test fit of engine to make sure wiring harness is correctly sized. Then interior. Need to dynamat the interior. Modify the dash for the double din and get the heater box and dash installed. Also need to test all the wiring harnesses. Which I am not looking forward to.

 

All for now...

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So the engine is in.

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Have a few challenges. AC interferes with battery location, so I am going to use a different bracket that runs off the inner pulley on the harmonic balancer. It sits low and will allow me to continue to use the stock battery position. Unfortunate oversight on my behalf. Living in Texas AC delete is not an option.

 

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I had to get the ICT billet adjustable tensioner 551617X-1 and the Kwik Performance Mini AC bracket for the Corvette harmonic balancer. I love the LS community, you can find anything to get you out of trouble. I am also going to use the Sanden 7176C compressor. It tucks nice and low.

 

Test fitted the hood. There is at least 1" of clearance so that worked out.

 

Novak engine mounts are pretty easy to drop the engine on. No real hassles. Headers cleared fine.

 

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To install the drivers side header the steering shaft had to come out.

 

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Plenty of room for fans

 

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Man, that engine bay is SEMA level gorgeous!

I feel you on the AC bracket hitting the battery spot. Is the new location for the AC pump the stock truck location? (Low on the passenger side). I believe there's room there for it (running off of a separate belt)

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

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7 hours ago, thecodemonk said:

Man, that engine bay is SEMA level gorgeous!

I feel you on the AC bracket hitting the battery spot. Is the new location for the AC pump the stock truck location? (Low on the passenger side). I believe there's room there for it (running off of a separate belt)

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
 

Correct. It looks like it will work. I have a Corvette crank pulley with the second 4 rib take off that will run it. 

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On 10/18/2019 at 10:53 AM, MJXJjeepguy said:

Wow what a beautiful truck, I just order baja fiber hood 10th anniversary style and really can't wait when it arrive and get it paint at shop.

 

Be prepared to do some work on the hood. Mine wasn't even close to a good fit. Maybe I just got a bad one.

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3 hours ago, Limeyjeeper said:

 

Be prepared to do some work on the hood. Mine wasn't even close to a good fit. Maybe I just got a bad one.

Yea I'm aware of that, but after I talked to one of XJ owner in Instagram which he won a free giveaway hood from bajafiber hood and I asked a few question, he said he had no plm with fitting the new hood and said everything when smooth like glove. I hope I will get good one lol. 

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His user Instagram is jc_jeeps91.

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  • 2 weeks later...

So I managed to get the two factory fans installed. Had to tweak the passenger side one to give me enough room for the intake and the radiator hose. Had to make brackets to drop the fan legs into. Also got the condenser shoehorned in front of the Novak radiator, that required all new brackets. Had to make some compromises but it works. Probably gonna lose a few HP as I had to use 3" intake tubing. The upper hose is Dayco Part No.71981. The radiator inline filler supplied by Novak is 1 1/2" . The upper radiator inlet and water pump outlet is 1 1/4" go figure. So I replaced it with a Moroso 63745. Fits just fine. Might change the plastic flexible intake for an aluminum one at some point. Still working on the lower Radiator hose. Had a couple of false starts. Not a lot of space. Got the PDC bracket and coolant bottle in place. Next up is AC hoses and PS hoses. Bit by bit.......

 

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On 10/21/2019 at 6:27 PM, MJXJjeepguy said:

Yea I'm aware of that, but after I talked to one of XJ owner in Instagram which he won a free giveaway hood from bajafiber hood and I asked a few question, he said he had no plm with fitting the new hood and said everything when smooth like glove. I hope I will get good one lol. 

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His user Instagram is jc_jeeps91.

Jeez, that thing is sweet.

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8 hours ago, Limeyjeeper said:

Novak make a bellhousing adapter so you can use the Jeep bellhousing mated to the 5.3 block.

 

8 hours ago, Limeyjeeper said:

Part no 375-3. Hard to find on their site.$339. You use a GM flywheel and clutch with a Jeep external slave bellhousing.

:L:

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