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Comanche Dawn


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Also modified the warning light cluster to add a headlight on warning light. Got this from the UK cluster. Repaced the Security indicator which isn't used. You can't see the join. I am going to wire this and the low washer fluid warning when I put her back together. Already wired the Full Time 4WD light  in my current Comanche for the NP242. Will repeat on this build. Cleaned up the bezel using Griots Plastic polish.

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Well she has gone off for paint. Going to be about 2 Months. Plenty to do in the meantime. Change the D30 front knuckles is the next task so I can mount the Wilwood's. Scored a really good dash so it is going to be much easier to restore. The paint guy is going to install get new vinyl and foam where needed. The original would have been too much of a project. All the plastic was cracked and glued. Going to rebuild the heater box next. Needs evaporator and heater core plus all new foam seals. Pedal assembly has been refurbed and the firewall holes drilled. It lines up perfectly with the clutch master cylinder.

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On 2/24/2019 at 11:14 PM, Limeyjeeper said:

Managed to spray the chassis and bottom of the bed over the weekend with U-Pol Raptor. Very impressed. Great product goes down really well. Pretty much ready to go to paint. Use a respirator the VOC's off this stuff are nasty.

Friend of mine did raptor bedliner lime green on his whole jeep and turn out look great! Make it look whole brand New!

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  • 3 weeks later...

Floors are fixed. Exactly like factory including the bead rolled lines and plug holes. New door hinges welded on and strengthened. Dents all pulled out. Next job primer. Also I have decided to do a 4.8 Gen III LS swap. It will give me 285hp+, which is plenty for a 3,100lb Comanche. The 4.8 puts less stress on the cooling system. Hoping to use an upgraded Jeep radiator., as I would like to use the 2 fan LHD, RHD, factory setup. We will see. Going to put the AX15 and NP242 behind it. Going to do an LS1 intake, so I don't need a cowl hood. Using Novak mounts and flange adaptors. Novak Headers, Deatschwerksworks injectors, and I can use the stock fuel pump with a Novak fuel regulator.  This way I don't grenade the drivetrain. Also going to put PRP Enduro Elite seats in. I have a set in my Wrangler which I will use. They test fitted really well. Gave me at 2" extra legroom which will make all the difference.

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  • 4 weeks later...

So she is almost ready for paint, just have to finish the hood, which is proving to be quite the challenge. Hope to get paint on in the next 2 - 3 weeks. Going to start on the custom LS harness in the next couple of weeks. I have and old NOS jeep harness so I am going to use the Jeep PDC and wire in the LS injectors, sensors and PCM into that harness. This way the harness will look pretty close to factory. Not going to keep the Jeep PCM. EFI Connection is a great source for all the connectors for the build. Once that is done I will source a long block L33 and start the engine build.

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  • 3 weeks later...
29 minutes ago, Limeyjeeper said:

Got the dash done. It really came out great. Gonna look good against the orange. Just got the baja fiber hood to finish and install and then into the paint booth.

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Beautiful.

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Wrapped in vinyl and glued down and heated to get it nice and tight. It is being done at a local restoration shop. Guy is doing it as a favor, he is into much more exotic projects normally than a lowly old Comanche. They are just doing the body, paint, installing the PRP seats and the dash. I am doing everything else myself. I will be getting it back in pieces!! My bodywork skills are just not that good and I will be keeping this truck for a long time so  want it doing right. It is tricky in the Texas heat to keep paint on!!

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Decided to tackle the heater box over the weekend. What a nightmare. It needed all new foam inside and new gaskets. So hard to cut foam straight, not pretty but does the job.!! Had to scrape off all the interior foam as it was all crumbling and nasty. Purchased self adhesive foam sheets from Mcmaster-Carr (great company) and got to work. It turned out pretty well. I also replaced the heater core and evaporator, plus the temp control and heat sensors. Just waiting on neoprene to replace the fan motor seal. The polyethylene sheet is too soft to make a good seal. The fan seal is critical in stopping water getting into the cab. It is what caused the passenger floor issues on mine. Waiting on a new fan motor. The old one was rough.

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59 minutes ago, Limeyjeeper said:

Decided to tackle the heater box over the weekend. What a nightmare. It needed all new foam inside and new gaskets. So hard to cut foam straight, not pretty but does the job.!! Had to scrape off all the interior foam as it was all crumbling and nasty. Purchased self adhesive foam sheets from Mcmaster-Carr (great company) and got to work. It turned out pretty well. I also replaced the heater core and evaporator, plus the temp control and heat sensors. Just waiting on neoprene to replace the fan motor seal. The polyethylene sheet is too soft to make a good seal. The fan seal is critical in stopping water getting into the cab. It is what caused the passenger floor issues on mine. Waiting on a new fan motor. The old one was rough.

 

 

Can you share the part numbers for the foam sheets and neoprene you used?  I've been looking at the $45 kit below to seal up the engine bay side:

 

https://www.morris4x4center.com/seal-drain-to-dash-4874069ab.html

 

Were you able to get it done cheaper?

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I used the following pieces:-

 

86225K53-  Flame-Retardant Super-Cushioning Foam Sheet, Polyurethane with Adhesive-Back, 24" x 24" x 1/4"            $13.98

86225K57 - Flame-Retardant Super-Cushioning Foam Sheet, Polyurethane with Adhesive-Back, 24" x 24" x 1"                $27.39

8647K701 - Light Duty Blended EPDM Foam Sheet Soft, 1-1/4" Thick, 42" Wide, 1 ft. Length                                               $40.78

 

I didn't use the kit you are talking about because I didn't know it existed!! and it is for a 1997 onwards. I don't know if the seal is the same. If it is then I missed out on a much easier fix. You still need the Poly to fix all the other seals and internal foam.

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Next project is wiring. I had a NOS wiring harness from a 1992 which I bought on ebay a few years ago. This is going to be combined with an LS harness to form an OEM looking harness. I will be stripping out all the engine control wiring, injectors, sensors, alternator, cruise control,  and AC circuits as well as the transmission controller wiring and adding a custom harness for an LS all integrated into the Jeep Power Distribution center. The Jeep PCM will go. The GM PCM will be mounted under the dash out of the way. This is a monster project as I am having to trace each wire. I don't trust the factory Service manual color coding. No room for error here. It has to be 100% right. I will be keeping the wiring for the lights, power to the GM PCM, AC fan relay, AC relay, Starter relay, Fuel pump relay, Fog lamp relay, Auto shutdown (Maybe), Speed sensor,  and all the wiring that goes through the firewall to support the Heating and AC and instrument panel. I will also use the PDC fuses such as Engine Control, Alternator, Ignition, Fog lamps, Head lights etc. It is time consuming but I think the end result will be a neat OEM look to the wiring. Kinda scary how much wire in the harness is too long and was bundled inside the harness. Probably going to strip about 50% of the wires out and shorten some. The LS harness will control Injectors, sensors, Alternator, AC, Tach signal and Cruise Control. Using drive by cable which makes the LS harness a bit simpler. Wish me luck lol.

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