RangerDB

You can run a jumper, but I believe it prevents too much voltage going to the distributor. They aren't very expensive, it would probably be better to have it in the circuit.

Nice find, the body looks to be very good and straight. That will make an excellent project.

And if 1 to 5 don't work, I'd try #11, it cured my idle problem.

Do you have the ceramic ballast resistor on the driver sidefender? If so, make sure you didn't knock a wire of it while cleaning or it simply may have went bad. You can by pass it with a jumper wire to check. If it is bad, it will turn over, kick but won't start. Mine went on my son's 88 Eliminator. We changed distributor cap, plugs, wires and were almost convinced it was the fuel pump. A friend who is a mechanic suggested bypassing the ceramic resistor and sure enough it took right off.

You can buy adjustable ball joints that will allow you to adjust the camber. I put them on my 86 longbox as I had the tire wear also. Just make sure you get the the set screw tight or they will turn and throw the adjustment off. Here is a link to the Moog ones. https://www.moogparts.ca/parts/suspension/alignment-parts/adjustable-ball-joints.html

I saw one on here a few years ago where the guy simply sanded the backer board, filled in any imperfections and painted it. It looked great and no more sagging fabric.

The bench seat looks fantastic. Amazing job on the build, I love red on a comanche!

Very nice job, looking awesome.

Damn I love that hood!

In regards to the loose steering, check your track bar and the bracket it goes into. The bracket will sometimes oval out and make it sloppy.

I bypassed mine and haul an ATV regularily. The little rod that operates the valve fell of somewhere. I don't notice a difference but now I'm wondering if it was working right before.