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SatiricalHen

College Budget 1987 MJ Build

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On December 28, 2017 at 1:34 PM, coolwind57 said:

 

ooh, good timing.  I'm fixin' to do mine hopefully this weekend.  Any advise on cleaning that sucker?  Toothbrush and can of carb cleaner or did you dip it or do something else?  Any other disassembly on it?  

 

Not carb cleaner. Use Throttle body cleaner. I left mine on when cleaning. In hindsight, it be easier to clean it off the truck.

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10 hours ago, NC Tom said:

 

Not carb cleaner. Use Throttle body cleaner. I left mine on when cleaning. In hindsight, it be easier to clean it off the truck.

 

What I used was actually a Carburetor AND throttle body cleaner, in one.  

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Well the Comanche was wrecked tonight, so for now the progress will be put on hold and I will drive my Cherokee till I can afford to fix the Comanche. I believe it can be fully repaired, but won’t know for sure till I dig into it. Still moves under its own power, and I can’t see any buckling in the frame or inner fenders. Seems the bumper brackets bent/broke and pushed the bumper into the fenders and the grill and header panel took some of the blow. It did bust the radiator though.


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Got the front end pulled apart, fenders I pushed on and got them back straight, header panel, radiator, grill, bumper and the turn signals on the front are toast. Gonna bend the bumper tabs back straight in a little bit then just need to get parts for it. Definitely would have been totaled by insurance, but I have liability only and plan to fix it myself so I guess it doesn’t matter.


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Got a new face to put on, and one of the bumper mounts from the parts jeep happened to be a tow hook so now it’ll have a tow point in the front, not that it will need it hopefully.


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Well I haven’t done a ton to my Comanche, v8 zj sway bar, ordered injectors, have a couple of headliners (I’ll fix one up and throw it in), got a new driver’s side wheel cylinder, and my roommate and I did a compression test on the engine tonight, and it was terrible. Cold, turning the engine over with the starter, spark plugs in and throttle closed (which seems to be where everyone is concerned so I’ll do it again tomorrow probably)
Cylinder- reading in psi
1-30
2-30
3-30
4-0
5-30
6-10
So maybe the numbers tomorrow will look better, maybe the oreillys gauge is bad, but a couple of plugs were wet with oil, here’s one plugae6320d6e0ccce8f6087b50c410900df.jpg it was the worst of all. Burnt on there. Seems like a new engine is not many miles down the road for this Comanche. So now I need to decide, build a stroker, buy a stroker, buy a reman engine, buy a junkyard engine, or rebuild back to stock (probably a slight bore depending on the condition of the walls). Not sure what is the “best” option. I’ve always wanted to try to build an engine, and I’ve always wanted a stroker, but I don’t know if I’m ready for that or not. I’d still like to run regular gas and have the engine be very reliable. Any tips or suggestions?


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Pictures I was sent. a386db3172a14912ffea290c0a773f7d.jpgb959e1e1e33fe9b6c2c34b1153d7d941.jpgc9690f5ee02eb36dd6b6269dbfd56a2e.jpg15002332339ab2b21abe2b04aadbcb3f.jpgb0f88e7731cc92ecb59b6768f2bb9719.jpg
Pictures after I got it Home, pressure washed it and got it on jack stands to do some brake work. a22f097e535036f238695ddc34ef948b.jpg848294d57e3413e3be9f90606ffeaa92.jpg2376eb4a15ad4edd74e406abe526ca29.jpg



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U scored big time.


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Very similar, but mine will never see 35” tires unless they’re in the bed. Plan to keep it a fuel efficient daily driver. Hopefully it’ll get an ax-15 soonish though. I guess I’ll keep the ba10/5 till it blows. My roommate is trying to convince me to 4x4 swap it.


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I’m driving stock Eliminator and man it’s getting so much better mileage then my 4x4 cherokee. I get that daily diver thing. A trip that was costing me 20 in gas now costs around 15.


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No real updates, but I do have some ideas I want to try. Not sure when I’ll get around to them, but when I repair the headliner I would like to fiberglass in some speakers as well. My Comanche doesn’t have any factory speakers or places for speakers (door panels don’t have the grills and b pillars don’t have the brackets). The guy before me had some speaker boxes behind the seat which I’m still using for now, but I’d like to be able to put my backpack or a jacket or something back there. I figure the best option would be to put some 6.5” coaxial speakers in the headliner and have it kinda like the Cherokee sound bar since I’ll be taking the doors on and off and like the door panels, and the speaker location in the b pillars seems like it would get pretty muffled.


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Finally fixed the stumbling and backfiring. Unplugged the IAT, MAT, or whatever you want to call it. Runs like a champ. Now just need to get me a replacement for it. Also, I’m finally getting some mean lemons battery cables to fix this 917c0de75e7c664d969ceaa40bc153e7.jpg there is maybe an inch or so of insulation left on my ground cable.


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Got my battery cables in and as always I’m impressed with the quality. Also, installed a clock in the dash. I really think the fuel pump is dying. It gets very loud as I drive farther, and a few times it’s sputtered like it wasn’t getting gas then snaps back to life.


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well it seems its been a while since I've updated this thread. I replaced the fuel pump about a few weeks ago, driven it around a little bit, but still runs like crap and has no power. Friday I went to a junkyard in Georgia with my roommate and the guy had a huge pile of Cherokees and Grand Cherokees with a couple of Comanches. I got a back board for my Comanche (the board that goes behind the seat), got an ax-15 for it since it was already pulled and only $50, a new dash bezel, and cut a GM IAT pigtail off and made an adapter so I can use a GM IAT (which comes in Tuesday). That is about all I have for an update. I still plan to do something about the engine this summer, and hopefully do some interior stuff this summer. 

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Well it’s been a minute... got an ax-15, external slave bell housing, 7120 head, 99+ intake, throttle body, powersteering pump and bracket, intake lid, steel valve cover, HO manifold and front pipe, and I’m about to pull the block out of the Comanche. She’s sitting with the transmission and head pulled right now. 022766714316f7ce20499eb246557871.jpg030ffa9f42e3e3fe529151ced0242a8b.jpgbfdd87b87e02078d4cd9a0e006752cbc.jpgba963e2cecf9e7c6fe892a20213d48a5.jpg here’s how it all looked when I pulled it apart, it appears the exhaust valve hasn’t opened on cylinder 4 possibly since I owned it. Using the renix block, comp cam, 93 head, 99 intake, and hopefully it’ll a work out.


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Well I got it back together a while ago. Been daily driving it. Gets 17-21ish mpg. Having some high idle issues, but other than that it runs beautifully.


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6a3fdccf67ee1c7c7405e876478e84b3.jpg0476f2dff069348794c10c4a4ad9b612.jpg88830ee7bf73b18674af41ac372e2065.jpg got a hurst short shifter for it, and put some tj Moab’s on with some decent street tires for better daily driving. Not sure how to get the front caps to fit in the wheels since the dust caps hit now. Anyone done it or have suggestions how to do it?


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23 minutes ago, SatiricalHen said:

Not sure how to get the front caps to fit in the wheels since the dust caps hit now. Anyone done it or have suggestions how to do it?

 

I had that same problem when I had the Ravine wheels on. Should work fine with the Moabs too:

 

"There's another way if you don't want change knuckles (I didn't). You can't buy the OEM caps anymore, and there are no low profile caps; they will all stick through the hole somewhat. One solution I found is to use Mr. Gasket Chrome Dust Caps. They are just a tiny bit small, but you can cut a strip of aluminum from a beer can and fold it  around the inner lip of the hub for a shim and they will tap in firmly and stay forever.
 
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mrg-2485/overview/
 
mrg-2485_w_xl.jpg

 

They look better than the original dust caps sticking through the hole.

 

a1eb0810ccf8538771b1dced5d7685dc.jpg

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Well the dana 35 died Thursday on the way home from work. Today I went and picked up a Chrysler 8.25 that I’ll swap in. I also got another front end for it


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I got the 8.25 swap done Saturday evening. Since I was feeling productive I took the front wheels off and put on some used shocks I got for free from a wj which made a major improvement in ride. While the front wheels were off I painted the center caps since I had silver paint laying around and figured it can’t be worse than rusty dust caps. So far I haven’t had the driveshaft bottom out and it solved the vibration I had on deceleration (I assume the slip was too far out allowing slop) that’s what I had always figured the issue was. So now that I fixed that issue, the front wheel bearings have some play, the fuel rail started leaking at the back fitting, it has a stumble and hesitation still, and I was going to check and see how close the tps adjustment was since I had to make the adapter and all for the 99 intake and I couldn’t even get an input reading. So as always something else to fix. 4409a5bc896a08fa6d585a3ff1a176f6.jpg only picture I have of the painted dust caps at the moment, but I think the color matches the wheels pretty well. I don’t think I posted pictures of the Comanche, but I finally got all the bits for a matching red front end 3c9cf92f96d406d2be82b4a04e6b5558.jpg69acf8819ff50a81bfd3020b3492ffa5.jpg


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Nice looking jeep! How’d you get 17-21 mpg out of the 4.0? I’ve only ever managed 13-15 mpg.  I have 33s and a 4 inch lift but it shouldn’t be that big of a difference.  Is it the renix 4.0?

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very nice!  I love a chrome grille :D   chrome mirrors exist too and you can snag chrome drip rails from an XJ and cut to size if you want to add a couple more bits of bling.  :L:

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Nice looking jeep! How’d you get 17-21 mpg out of the 4.0? I’ve only ever managed 13-15 mpg.  I have 33s and a 4 inch lift but it shouldn’t be that big of a difference.  Is it the renix 4.0?

I get about 17-22 out my 2001 Cherokee running a K&N, a riser, and a flow master. I’m on 30s with no lift. But I keep my foot out of it.



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