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College Budget 1987 MJ Build


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I can’t decide what to do with the rear window. I have a solid pane, 4 pane, and 3 pane. I found a latch I think will work and ordered it. I know I don’t want the 4 pane (please someone buy it) and I like the fixed because it looks clean, it was what the truck came with, the sliders seem to have a lot more noise, I feel like there’s more chance to leak, and it’s super easy to break into sliders. The slider is nice for air flow and talking to people in the bed and I’ve gotten used to the one I have now. Also, I need to figure out what to do with the white tailgate. I want a Comanche tailgate to hang up on a wall, but it bothers me it’s missing the handle *cough cough* 88mjsally. Also it’s not red so it’s not as cool for me personally (because my truck is red). I really just got stuff because it was cool and then it turned out people really thought the stuff was cool too and I don’t need a skid plate on a 2wd truck and I’m too scared to drill holes in the bed of my truck.


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19 minutes ago, SatiricalHen said:

I’m too scared to drill holes in the bed of my truck.

To be fair I was scared to do the cargo light and then I said "hell with it, I paid for it and I'm gonna install it!" I don't regret my choice. As far as leaks, RTV on the gasket to the body worked great. 

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Put a new rear window in today, and pulled the vents off finally because there is a terrible flapping sound when driving down the highway. I don’t know what to do now though. Obviously get some foam weather stripping of some sort to seal the vents better again, but any suggestions on the vents themselves?


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The exhaust flappers? No I didn't. I was very fortunate to have mine indecent shape from the AZ heat. It looks like those vents are just crusty, falling apart and need to be replaced.

 

Buuuuuuut, not all hope is lost. My best guess is if you can get some sort of very flexible and pliable rubber, you could poke holes where the holes need to be on the vent and make new flappers with the vent. They are rebuildable, just the right material is needed to do what the vent was designed to do. 

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The exhaust flappers? No I didn't. I was very fortunate to have mine indecent shape from the AZ heat. It looks like those vents are just crusty, falling apart and need to be replaced.
 
Buuuuuuut, not all hope is lost. My best guess is if you can get some sort of very flexible and pliable rubber, you could poke holes where the holes need to be on the vent and make new flappers with the vent. They are rebuildable, just the right material is needed to do what the vent was designed to do. 

Finding the right material is the key. I seem to remember seeing someone fix them on here, but now that I need it I can’t find it. That seems to be how it always works isn’t it?


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Well I clearly don’t know how to put windows in, it leaks. Also, on the note of not knowing how t put windows in, bleepinjeep put up a video of 1 piece window install so I got some manual 97+ regulators coming and I’m going to attempt to do the 97+ door windows. Doesn’t look awful


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  • 2 weeks later...

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Got the vents redone and put them in. Haven’t driven at highway speeds yet so I don’t know if these will flap like the last ones yet. Also, I ordered a Bluetooth adapter made my JL today so I can go further incognito with the radio and charge my phone while listening to music. So now it’ll have a radio delete plate and the aux cord will no longer be laying around.

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Added Bluetooth to my truck which is super nice to have a hidden sound system. And I can start my music and stick my phone back in my pocket. I finally put the marker light LEDs in and to do so I got a relay from the parts store and ran jumpers to the 2 pins the factory flasher relay uses and had to ground the 3rd pin, but everything works and I’m happy with the results.


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  • 2 weeks later...

I went from poly mounts to rubber mounts. The Jeep is so much quieter now, but it’s one of them soup is too cold soup is too hot kinda deals. I liked the rigidity of the poly mounts, but I like the quiet of the rubber mounts. I may try some sort of beefier rubber mounts later on to try and get the best of both worlds.


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Now that the motor mounts and vents have made it quieter, and I finally put my LED marker lights in with the correct flasher. I’m on a fix little things kick. Next on the list I guess would be the intermittent no start issue. I turn the key and it kills the blower motor and the gauges do their thing, but it doesn’t send power to the starter relay so my guess is ignition switch, but I have no clue. The idle is funky and never idles are 750 and I’ve tried new IAC, new TPS, adjusted the TPS multiple times, and I’m not sure what to do with it. Also, my truck seems to charge low. Like 13v or so with this alternator and the last, but cold mornings it reads over 14 for some reason. There seems to be so many inconsistent quirks with the truck. I trust it to start up and go no matter what, but there’s just little things that drive me crazy.


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Normal during ENGINE CRANKING.

Yes, which is what I was saying. That function is normal, but when you test for power at the starter relay, the switch isn’t sending any power to the starter relay, it’s just killing the other power. So would that indicate a bad ignition switch?


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25 minutes ago, SatiricalHen said:

So would that indicate a bad ignition switch?

Or the wire between the IGN SW and the Starter Relay coil.

Disconnect both C267 and C268 at the IGN SW. Using a fused jumper, jump C267_S to C268_B3. CAUTION STARTER SHOULD ENGAGE. Does Starter Motor engage?

1009239782_C267_C268IgnitionSwitch.jpg.7e8a8afb5f12ea4916e447897111b24d.jpg

 

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