Tex06 Posted October 9, 2017 Share Posted October 9, 2017 Left front wheel bearing is going out and I wanted to make sure I've got everything before I tear into it as the MJ is my DD for the moment. Dana 30 hp axle. 36mm socket for removing hub nut (Have heard conflicting info as to 33mm vs 36mm) New hub assembly (is there a 5x5 pattern hub I can swap in to get rid of my current 4.5"x5 to 5"x5 adapters/spacers?) Should I plan on doing the u-joint in the axle at the same time? I'm fairly sure the noise is a wheel bearing but could it be this joint? I'll be replacing both wheel bearings, not just one side if I do this. *note: getting a grinding or humming noise at 40-65mph. Stops below 30mph or if I take a left turn at speed. My experience says wheel bearing with 219k on the truck. Opinions welcome* Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dzimm Posted October 9, 2017 Share Posted October 9, 2017 There is really only one good way to test what is bad, lift the front of the truck up and move the wheel up and down and side to side while watching where the movement is, be it in the bearing or in a ball joint. As for the ujoint, grab it and wiggle it all around and watch for movement. If it were me, I'd order new shafts with new u-joints and wheel bearings already on them (wayyy less work and headache for you). They don't cost all that much more than just a new wheel bearing and have all new parts. This also gives you your old ones as spares. Since the shafts are pulled, you can do any other upgrades you may want to as well, like adding outer axle seals to protect the inners. Doing this route, all you have to do is have a 10mm socket for the brake caliper and a 12-point 13mm for the retainer bolts holding the axle shaft on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tex06 Posted October 9, 2017 Author Share Posted October 9, 2017 No movement seen when I jacked it up. That's mainly why I think its a bearing. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tex06 Posted October 9, 2017 Author Share Posted October 9, 2017 Also, on my budget thers a big difference between $45 for a wheel bearing and $190 for the assembly. Esp when that's doubled for each side. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dzimm Posted October 9, 2017 Share Posted October 9, 2017 12 minutes ago, Tex06 said: Also, on my budget thers a big difference between $45 for a wheel bearing and $190 for the assembly. Esp when that's doubled for each side. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk Definitely budget dependant. If you don't want to spend the extra money but have the extra time, a rebuild is the best way to go. I figured with it being your DD and wanting to get it back up quickly, that's a good way to do it but it comes at a price. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carnuck Posted October 9, 2017 Share Posted October 9, 2017 5 on 5 pattern for the front may require a knuckle swap out (I’ll ask my son. He’s played with ZJ and WJ front bearings recently) We compared in case I needed a spare bearing for my MJ from the ZJ he put new axles and bearings in right after he did his WJ ones. Except the wheel pattern, they looked identical side by side. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted October 9, 2017 Share Posted October 9, 2017 Both sides are something like $140 from Summit. US made with Jap bearings. Budget or no budget................not worth rebuilding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xjrev10 Posted October 9, 2017 Share Posted October 9, 2017 Buy new bearings. Less then $150 for the pair most retailers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tex06 Posted October 10, 2017 Author Share Posted October 10, 2017 Both sides are something like $140 from Summit. US made with Jap bearings. Budget or no budget................not worth rebuilding. Can't rebuild the 92 bearing/hub it's a sealed unit like what you have shown. They are offered as low as $45 per side. I was referring to the axle/ujoint/hub assembly that was listed for $190 per side. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87Warrior Posted October 10, 2017 Share Posted October 10, 2017 There is absolutely no reason to replace the stub shaft or axle if the ujoint ears are not stretched. You can replace the ujoint and with the wheel bearing removed the job is easy. I like Spicer ujoints. I am going to assume this will be the first time your axle has been apart. Have heat and a penetrating spray ready, the first time is the most difficult. Buy a 1/2" drive 12point 13mm socket for the 3 wheel bearing bolts and two new cotter keys. Use a breaker bar on the 13mm socket and heat to get those bolts out. You do not need to worry about heating up the old bearing since it will go in the trash. The wheel bearing will probably be fused to the knuckle. This is how I usually approach the problem. http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/unitbearing/unitbearing-1.htm Reassemble with a coat of anti seize or marine grease on all mating surfaces (even the stub shaft splines) for less trouble in the future. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted October 10, 2017 Share Posted October 10, 2017 36mm or 1-3/8", IIRC. The CV shafts I put in mine came with 35mm nuts. Use an impact wrench to bust them loose, or a 3/4" or 1" drive breaker bar... I broke a 1/2" one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted October 10, 2017 Share Posted October 10, 2017 8 hours ago, Tex06 said: Can't rebuild the 92 bearing/hub it's a sealed unit like what you have shown. They are offered as low as $45 per side. I was referring to the axle/ujoint/hub assembly that was listed for $190 per side. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk I was confused.........never hears of that 'complete' assembly. Spicer ujoints are like $18 each. As for the $45 unit bearings, read threads, 6 months to a year and you'll be replacing those again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tex06 Posted October 10, 2017 Author Share Posted October 10, 2017 I was confused.........never hears of that 'complete' assembly. Spicer ujoints are like $18 each. As for the $45 unit bearings, read threads, 6 months to a year and you'll be replacing those again. Yah, I hadn't either but Dzimm mentioned them in the second post. They're not cheap. If I get 6 months I'll be a happy camper. Should have a real job by then to cover the cost of Spicer or Moog replacements. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted October 11, 2017 Share Posted October 11, 2017 I remember someone posted a couple of years ago (Incommando maybe?) a pic of a CRAP unit bearing that separated while driving after a couple of months. As I recall it screwed up the suspension pretty good, but could have been a lot worse. You can buy stuff like a Hurst shifter, Wicked Flow muffler, Pioneer Sub pushing twin 10" subs and a lot of speakers, etc etc. and cheap out on suspension / steering components. That don't make no sense to me mate......... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tex06 Posted October 11, 2017 Author Share Posted October 11, 2017 I remember someone posted a couple of years ago (Incommando maybe?) a pic of a CRAP unit bearing that separated while driving after a couple of months. As I recall it screwed up the suspension pretty good, but could have been a lot worse. You can buy stuff like a Hurst shifter, Wicked Flow muffler, Pioneer Sub pushing twin 10" subs and a lot of speakers, etc etc. and cheap out of suspension / steering components. That don't make no sense to me mate......... had a job when I bought the truck (and half the stuff on it). Currently volunteering with AmeriCorps and living on $1000/mo until January when my term ends and I can go back to engineering. Even if I do get a catastrophic failure..... it's a jeep. It can be rebuilt. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crash Posted October 21, 2017 Share Posted October 21, 2017 In 2012 I bought a pair of 'premium, no-name' on ebay from primechoiceautoparts seller. Still on my heep, and no issues. Heep is driven almost daily, and when wheeled I drive it hard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marine1Texas Posted October 21, 2017 Share Posted October 21, 2017 I have always bought the wheel assembly at the local auto parts store for about 60 bucks per side and comes will year or two Warranty. Last time I replaced was 100k ago or 7 years ago. seems like every 100k or so for me. I did not get the MOOG it was about a 100 for my 87 4wd truck. I always do both sides when I do a wheel assembly and then replace the ujoints good or bad. I never had any problem and I load the $#!& out of my Comanche when pulling trailers and tractors out of the clay beds on my 200 acre farm. I use the 1 inch spacer so the 31 10.5's don't rub. have no lift kit either. I have never had a ujoint go bad on mine. last time wheel bearing went out notice a small noise on corners. I jacked up and grabbed wheel and did top down bottom up and left to right movement test on tire fixed. had small movement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted October 21, 2017 Share Posted October 21, 2017 Well, that's all great guys. May your good luck continue. As long as I still have a choice and availability is there, I won't be buying any C.R.A.P.s. But I do realize time's getting short to still have choices for our old trucks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted October 21, 2017 Share Posted October 21, 2017 1 hour ago, HOrnbrod said: Well, that's all great guys. May your good luck continue. As long as I still have a choice and availability is there, I won't be buying any C.R.A.P.s. But I do realize time's getting short to still have choices for our old trucks. And even then.............. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted October 21, 2017 Share Posted October 21, 2017 I'm aware of that. Recently bought a NOS MAP sensor on Ebay - Made in China stamped on the box. Returned it to the seller (a dealership) and got my $$ back. As above, "time's getting short". Stock up on real NOS parts while you can..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted October 21, 2017 Share Posted October 21, 2017 The hub nut is 6mm ... The SAE equivalent is 1 7/16" (had to pick one up recently for my 3/4" bar when the nut was ... Infuriating).Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted October 21, 2017 Share Posted October 21, 2017 I'm aware of that. Recently bought a NOS MAP sensor on Ebay - Made in China stamped on the box. Returned it to the seller (a dealership) and got my $$ back. As above, "time's getting short". Stock up on real NOS parts while you can..... The '97 MAP is used has actually improved my milage numbers ... Be it made it China or USA or Mexico ... All I know is it was a stock part sitting on a motor (in a TJ) for about 5yrs in buddies yard (where I grabbed the motor from). Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted October 21, 2017 Share Posted October 21, 2017 Mopar "Made in China" parts is a fairly recent "innovation" for older parts production. Have seen quite a few lately. It's probably a perfectly fine part equal to one made in the USA or elsewhere, and performs just as well and last just as long. But I don't like it and won't use them. Goes against the grain. Know what I mean Vern? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marine1Texas Posted October 21, 2017 Share Posted October 21, 2017 I know what you mean for sure H0rn. I hate how all this is made from China, however I am getting older, and I have to many hours to work in days and the rest I like to spend with family as they are getting older too. So I cave in on the parts sometime for sure. I will not go back to a china part that has burned me in the past tho. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tex06 Posted February 11, 2018 Author Share Posted February 11, 2018 Welp.... I'm in a pickle. What sounds like a bad wheel bearing, acts like a bad wheel bearing, but ain't a wheel bearing?Replaced DS hub assembly (timken, only $62 off Amazon). Noise is still there, still goes away when turning left. Swapped tires, no change. Also found the "rattle" in my front left wheel...One of my brake caliper bolts fell out! Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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