Jeep Driver Posted November 21, 2021 Author Posted November 21, 2021 (edited) The tedious task of gapping rings. Top and second ring gapped to .019. Instructions and elsewhere will tell you to only file one side of the ring, BS, some rings are out of square at the gap, even on both sides and need to be squared up. Watch for that. And these are Hastings. Mixed reviews on the ring filer but this is a good one- https://www.kmjperformance.com/i-31614254-89408-universal-precision-piston-ring-filer-carbide-cutting-wheel-sbc-sbf-bbc.html?ref=search:https%3A%2F%2Fwww.kmjperformance.com%2Fsearch.html%3Fq%3D89408%2BUniversal%2BPrecision%2BPiston%2BRing%2BFiler Edited November 21, 2021 by Jeep Driver
Jeep Driver Posted November 27, 2021 Author Posted November 27, 2021 (edited) Cam is installed. Cam endplay needs to be 0.004 to 0.010 and getting there isn't easy, lots of trial and error. I had to make my own shims and resized one cam button, I picked up a Manley (left) today and with two shims I got there. I lost faith in the Allstar Performance button anyway, the Manley is higher quality. There is a bearing behind the cam gear and the button is a roller, I drilled a small hole in the center brass plug to make a squirter to keep the bearings wet. Now on to degree the cam. Edited November 27, 2021 by Jeep Driver
Jeep Driver Posted December 5, 2021 Author Posted December 5, 2021 On 11/27/2021 at 12:53 PM, JMO413 said: As always you do amazing work! Thank you.
Jeep Driver Posted December 5, 2021 Author Posted December 5, 2021 Cam has been degreed and is dead-on.
Jeep Driver Posted December 5, 2021 Author Posted December 5, 2021 2 hours ago, jdog said: Looking good Thank you.
Jeep Driver Posted December 5, 2021 Author Posted December 5, 2021 I'll be ordering Smith Brothers push rods.
Jeep Driver Posted December 11, 2021 Author Posted December 11, 2021 I ordered custom length pushrods on Mon at 2pm, they were in my mailbox yesterday by noon. That is superior service, and I'm keeping with my American made scheme. Even though these rods are 1/2" shorter they weigh twice as much as stock.
JMO413 Posted December 12, 2021 Posted December 12, 2021 26 minutes ago, Jeep Driver said: This really makes me miss my SBC in my CJ. That is going to be fun to drive! Just looked through the engine build and had a question or 2. Did you ever list cubic inch? Just wondering I noticed the crank and wondered if you went stroker. Have you decided on carb or EFI?
Jeep Driver Posted December 12, 2021 Author Posted December 12, 2021 13 hours ago, JMO413 said: This really makes me miss my SBC in my CJ. That is going to be fun to drive! Just looked through the engine build and had a question or 2. Did you ever list cubic inch? Just wondering I noticed the crank and wondered if you went stroker. Have you decided on carb or EFI? Fun? Yeah, that's what has been missing throughout this ordeal. 350 bored to .060 over, 360CI. It took me two years to find this block. Yes, get on Facefreak and you will find them, if you find one which is known 'good', it will be 200 miles away and they want $500-800 for it, and guaranteed it will be gone before you get there. Ironically, I found this one 10 minutes from my house from a guy who was not interested in selling it. I asked every car-guy I came across, those who had an engine or two would not sell. When I mentioned this to the machinist, his response- "What do you expect? you're looking for a 50 year old antique".... just a little perspective. I'm shooting for 450/480. You'll notice no windage tray or girdles.......none of the radical goodies. I did the horsepower calculations some time back when I was choosing parts. This engine will make power and be happy between 3000 and 5600rpm. The cam I ended up with doesn't come on the low end until 1800, the one I chose originally (not available) started making power at 1000 , I really wanted a low end torque engine. Unfortunately the MJ/XJ design forces us to use shorty/hugger headers, huggers kill off any chance of making top end power. This is lost on the LS guys, I know this based on comments and the direction they are going. LS guys have three things going for them, bullet proof bottom end- so they say, but more importantly they have highly efficient heads, and of course, what they believe to be endless tuning. LS guys can't get the air in and the exhaust out. There are solutions but the solutions are expensive and out of the common LS guy's wheelhouse. I was asked a few pages back why I did not go LS, the short answer was nostalgia, I want to build the engine I built when I was 17 but this time I want to build it right. But there were other reasons too, guys seem to think you can just throw an LS at something and find instant bliss. The Tremic4050 I'm going to use is good to 650ftlbs, anything beyond the 480 I'm shooting for will start eating driveline parts, not even sure the TC would survive much beyond that? And with 34" tires I'd be snapping axle shafts or Ujoints.......what I'm aiming for is good enough. And yes, Sniper EFI and if I can afford it I'd really like to go with the Stealth version. DUI distributor and wires, probably my next purchase.
Jeep Driver Posted December 18, 2021 Author Posted December 18, 2021 (edited) I'm in the process of port matching the intake to the heads. In the mean time.....guess if I'm going to build a Chevy, I better buy one too. Edited December 18, 2021 by Jeep Driver
Jeep Driver Posted December 27, 2021 Author Posted December 27, 2021 (edited) Edited December 27, 2021 by Jeep Driver
2K-TJ Posted December 28, 2021 Posted December 28, 2021 Beautiful paint job! I envy anyone who can practice the patience required in body work What is the paint color / code used on your build?
Jeep Driver Posted January 1, 2022 Author Posted January 1, 2022 On 12/28/2021 at 10:40 AM, 2K-TJ said: Beautiful paint job! I envy anyone who can practice the patience required in body work What is the paint color / code used on your build? Thanks. The color is stock 1988 Coffee with a coat of blue pearl. The truck will have to be repainted at some point. I did not have enough room to paint the entire truck at once and I have some color/shade differences between panels. Otherwise I'd have been more than happy with the outcome.
Jeep Driver Posted June 26, 2022 Author Posted June 26, 2022 Since my ability to post anywhere besides this thread has been removed, I'm responding here- Word gets around fast...I suppose. To the comment that no one will pay $10K for this lowly 2.5: The 2.5 has 4 hours of run time and about 70 miles on it, it has the later Wrangler crank and will easily convert over to the later accessories. The engine alone is worth $3K, runs flawlessly and will be an easy sell as a replacement for a Wrangler. Trans is perfect as well as TCase. Original post was for a TRADE, values for trades are always on the high side. Body is perfect, no rust. New Synergy steering sector, new Wilwoods, Fuels, tires, suspension, JKS trackbar, Bilsteins....etc with 0 miles, all worth north of $6K. Speedhut gauges were $1600....etc... The motorcycles I'm looking at are in the $6K to $8K range. If you actually THOUGHT about what I'm trying to accomplish here....well, that's too much to ask. My trade offer is more than fair.
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