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Dana 30 axle shaft questions


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CAD D30's were phased out between 90 and 92. Anything after '93 and you should be in the clear. Non-CAD D30's were available before that, but very rare. If you're pulling parts at a yard, just look for a non-CAD axle. If you're ordering new, the manufacturer should specify. Also note you'll need to get new seals if you're putting a single-piece shaft in a CAD housing, as the CAD seals will not work with a single-piece shaft. There are a bunch of threads on here about that.

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Grab the 97+ axle shafts for the 1 pce design and bigger u-joints....

And keep the 89 d30 axle because the casing is supposebly thicker compared to the newer axles...

Just have to change the inner seal for the new axle ahafts....

If anything look in youtube to bleepinjeep vid for the 1 peice axle shaft upgrade...

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All XJs with full time 4wd are non cad regardless of year, all with ABS should have the larger joints regardless of year.

 

All axles after around 92 are non cad, all after around 95 should have larger joints.

 

All TJs should be big joint non cad, ZJ shafts will fit too but some have CV shafts and I'm not sure the year interchange for 260 vs 297 for joints.

 

Axles get swapped all the time though so always make sure your getting the right stuff.

 

I don't believe the cad axle housing is stronger, a two piece tube with a chunk of cast in the middle doesnt seem like it would be stronger then a one piece tube. its also harder to truss a cad axle do to the cast section in the way, if you want to keep the cad axle i would look into an internal truss kit to strengthen the long side tube.

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I have had 4 Dana 30 axles under my truck. Three were CAD housings andthe only problem I had with them was the lower control arm mounts (they would rip off or fold up when off road). The last one was a non-CAD one. It was under my truck for only 2 trips off road before the passenger side upper control arm mount got ripped off.

 

Overall I think the CAD and non-CAD housings are the same strength, except the the thick cast passenger upper control arm mount on the CAD ones is a lot stronger than the sheet metal one on the non-CAD ones.

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  • 1 month later...

Resurrections:

 

Are the non-CAD D30s the same across all/most Jeeps?  Do I need to look for one from an XJs or can I look at ZJ, WJ, YJ, TJ?

 

I got to thinking about changing from a 3.07 to 3.55.  The front would be easiest to swap axles.  For the rear, I would upgrade the R&P.  I am not going to search for a D44 with 3.55. 

 

If I get an 8.25, it will need to be welded to fit the MJ.  Since I would have to pay someone to do all that work, I would be in the same cost as upgrading the D44.

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Resurrections:

 

Are the non-CAD D30s the same across all/most Jeeps?  Do I need to look for one from an XJs or can I look at ZJ, WJ, YJ, TJ?

 

I got to thinking about changing from a 3.07 to 3.55.  The front would be easiest to swap axles.  For the rear, I would upgrade the R&P.  I am not going to search for a D44 with 3.55. 

 

If I get an 8.25, it will need to be welded to fit the MJ.  Since I would have to pay someone to do all that work, I would be in the same cost as upgrading the D44.

That was the line if thinking I was trying to direct you to in your thread.

 

You can find a late year D30- 97-99- with low miles in good condition for say $150....this is a direct swap, no other costs unless you want to replace TREs or other parts to new.

 

Then at a later time when you have the money- Regear the D44 to match the front.

 

You may have a total of $600-700 invested in axles that will then get you down the road another trouble free 80K miles.

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Jeep Driver,

 

Your prior suggestions started me thinking.  I am not able to do this conversion yet.  But, If I get a non-CAD D30 for a later swap, I wanted to know what to model to look for.  I see there are "cosmetic" differences - larger/smaller axles, beefier u-joints - but are there diff from width, control arms, and/or springs.

 

I sure the XJ would be a direct swap.  Would a D30 from a WJ ZJ TJ have diff control arm and springs that I should look for instead?

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The YJ would be Under axle leaf springs so quite a bit of fab work is required.

 

The WJ would fit but they run CV's (if that is a concern) as do some ZJ

 

TJ would fit but the coil spring bucket is mounted lower so you would have to get different springs (or spacers to keep your ride height)

 

IMHO search for a high pinion out of a XJ.........the extra you spend on the entire unit you will save on time and fabrication.....It will bolt right up

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Another consideration for ZJ/TJ axles is the lower control arm mounts are designed for the Cam bolt style caster adjustments. The XJ/MJ axle is a simple hole with caster adjusted at the frame end.

Not a big deal and could be beneficial allowing double the adjustment range... But was worth making mention so you don't get surprised.

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You can install a "Cam Bolt Eliminator Kit" to give the TJ/ZJ axle a solid control arm mount. The kit is essentially a few thick washers that fit centered in the cam slot. You don't want to buy the cam bolts. They ran me over $60 8 years ago when I replaced them on my TJ.

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  • 6 years later...

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