johnj92131 Posted July 28, 2014 Share Posted July 28, 2014 What should I expect to pay for a used junk yard 4.0 engine with out a core? What accessories should I expect to have included with the used engine? I will be looking for late production 4.0, from 97 or 99 and later. I "assume" I can use any in line 6 up to the end of production - am I wrong? What should I watch out for? Thanks for the assistance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yxmj Posted July 28, 2014 Share Posted July 28, 2014 The only "Watch out" I can give you is stay away from ZJ blocks of the era you have outlined. They tend to be milled accesory specific and might not have all the boltholes you require drilled and tapped. As far as price....... :dunno: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88ComancheMitch Posted July 28, 2014 Share Posted July 28, 2014 A junkyard 6 cylinder from pull a part or the other local u-pull places around here are usually between 150-300. OF course, that's hoping it works and runs right...My dad always made the point to pull an engine from a vehicle that had been wrecked, preferably in the rear end, if he could get that lucky. Item Price core warranty ENGINE – COMPLETE (4 – CYL) $118.79 $20.00 $11.88 ENGINE – COMPLETE (6 – CYL) $129.79 $20.00 $12.98 ENGINE – COMPLETE (8 – CYL) $142.79 $20.00 $14.28 ENGINE BLOCK $68.79 $10.00 $6.88 This place is slightly cheaper than the other u-pull place. Just to give you an idea. Or find someone on CL parting one out that is rusted or something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86FUBAR Posted July 28, 2014 Share Posted July 28, 2014 That all depends on location and availability , I had to pay $1000 bucks for my 3.4v6 when I did my swap but I couldn't find any local and I couldn't find a complete car either so I got one from a large wrecking company 4hrs away from me ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terrawombat Posted July 28, 2014 Share Posted July 28, 2014 I paid $500 for a '98 4.0L longblock from a Cherokee that the junkyard owner said "ran great" and "we were driving that Cherokee all over the lot moving it back and forth." I'm too trusting as the engine had a blown head gasket and the head was slightly warped and needed to be milled - cost about $275 for the complete head rebuild. So, be careful. If possible, find a guy parting out a Jeep that can let you hear the thing run in the vehicle before it's yanked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimoshel Posted July 29, 2014 Share Posted July 29, 2014 I get $400 for a complete, running engine with all accesories. $500 if it's a very low milelage. It will still be in the Jeep and can be started and ran. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrankTheDog Posted July 29, 2014 Share Posted July 29, 2014 Look for XJ's on Craigslist for $500 or less and you have a good chance of getting a good motor with lots of spare parts. I just but a mostly rust free 1999 XJ for $400. The way the ad was written and the way the pictures were taken it didn't look special and may have scared people off. The only thing "wrong" with the jeep is the hood is bent, the airbag light is on and the cel has a code for a large evap leak which is probably the gas cap. No evidence at all of it being in a wreck. Has a clear title. So they are out there as I have 5 daily drivers in the family that I picked up for less than $700. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnj92131 Posted July 29, 2014 Author Share Posted July 29, 2014 Good input, thanks to all. Not looking for a core engine at a pick ur part. They are under $200, but not what I want. Buying and parting out an XJ would not be permitted by she who must be obeyed. Quick call to local salvage yard turns up a late TJ engine for $900 but they are telling me that is just for the long block. Good news is I can hear it run - they say. Suppose if it runs, I can do a compression check, if that is OK, then it would be time to wave money at them. Guess it will take a couple of trips to see what their bottom line is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted July 29, 2014 Share Posted July 29, 2014 TJ engine will ONLY work in a TJ. Mounting bosses are different. Also, if you have an 87 to 90, you need an engine from 87 to 90. If you have a 91 to 95 and don't feel like swapping parts around, you need a 91 to 95. If you have a 96 to 99, you need a 96 to 99 for same reason. 2000 to 01 will only really work in those years, and without a bunch of parts swapping and custom brackets, you cannot put an older engine in an 00 to 01 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strokermjcomanche Posted July 29, 2014 Share Posted July 29, 2014 Tj 4.0s will also work in 99-04 wjs as I have one in my 01 as we speak . My advice would be to find a nice, low mileage clean engine even if parts need swapped over . There's currently several in my area with under 90k on them for $400 . With some work( flexplate ,head,etc) you can make most any 4.0 87- 98 fit in your truck . Make sure your rear main seal , head gasket, etc are all in good condition also as it's way easier to change outside the vehicle . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted July 29, 2014 Share Posted July 29, 2014 True on 'em fitting in the WJ. But as this is COMACHE CLUB, i kept it simple. I can't believe as many people posted on here and no one even asked if his is renix or h.o. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnj92131 Posted July 29, 2014 Author Share Posted July 29, 2014 Tj 4.0s will also work in 99-04 wjs as I have one in my 01 as we speak . My advice would be to find a nice, low mileage clean engine even if parts need swapped over . There's currently several in my area with under 90k on them for $400 . With some work( flexplate ,head,etc) you can make most any 4.0 87- 98 fit in your truck . Make sure your rear main seal , head gasket, etc are all in good condition also as it's way easier to change outside the vehicle . Where are you located? $400 sounds really cheap to me. True on 'em fitting in the WJ. But as this is COMACHE CLUB, i kept it simple. I can't believe as many people posted on here and no one even asked if his is renix or h.o. My truck is a 1991, so it is a High Output. So a late block should be an easier swap for me. Real problem, as terrawombat pointed out, is we are talking about a used engine. And that is a pig in a polk No real way of knowing the true condition of the motor. Any junk yard will tell you the engine rans just fine. But why do they call them "Junk Yards"? Looked at EBay. LKQ has a number of late 4.0 engines in the 950=1000 range. LKQ also runs a numer of Pick UR Part yards if I just decide I want a simple core engine for rebuild to stroker specifications. With a core it will take me a couple of years to get a stroker together. Just not willing to pay Hesco more than $6K for a stroker. There are any number of excellent shops in Southern California without going to the other side of the country and paying for a name. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strokermjcomanche Posted July 29, 2014 Share Posted July 29, 2014 I live in Youngstown Ohio . Bodies rot out but 4.0s live forever !! Lol The 4.0 for sale is out of a 96xj with 77k on the engine . But it sounds like you're out west and might not have as many jys as us . I just got done building my 4.7 last year. Quick estimate, I have about 2k in the motor including all the machining and all new internal parts . Currently it has 2198 miles on it , and other than having to fix an oil pump it runs well . I have another 4.7 I'm putting together but I'm taking my good ole time doing so . Trying to find some good deals on performance parts . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted July 29, 2014 Share Posted July 29, 2014 John, just remember you can only use a motor from a xj, mj, yj, zj. Tj and wj are off limits for the fact that the bosses for motor mounts to put your mounts on them don't exist. Frankly, the newest engine I would buy would be 98 to mid 99. This is the last year before they decreased exhaust port diameter. I would however put an intake from a mid 99 and up on it, and I would also convert to the 96 and up belt tensioner system and steering pump (requires 96+ intake manifold). Doing this, you have no custom wiring necessary so long as you retain your current throttle body Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted July 29, 2014 Share Posted July 29, 2014 out of curiosity, what's wrong with the current engine? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnj92131 Posted July 30, 2014 Author Share Posted July 30, 2014 out of curiosity, what's wrong with the current engine? Radiator crapped out way worse than I thought. Saturday morning drove it about 8 miles, turns out radiator was empty (drained overnight) Pinged like a son of a b*@$£ while I limped it home. So it was really hot. Did I do any damage? don't know yet, but looking around for a replacement, just in case. I could get a junk yard core and rebuild it or I could get a running engine and rebuild mine over some time. Then again, my engine might be OK for another 10K miles. Just trying to know all my options in advance. And maybe it is time to buy a new to me truck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnj92131 Posted July 30, 2014 Author Share Posted July 30, 2014 JeepcoMJ, So even a 2001 XJ motor may be an issue??? 98/99 motor may be easier and cheaper to get. Do like StokerMJComanche's 2K stroker build. Price is sure right. Perhaps if my engine is OK...I will go that route. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terrawombat Posted July 30, 2014 Share Posted July 30, 2014 Stay away from the 00/01 XJ engines. There are a lot of subtle differences on those, but more importantly, they have a cylinder head (casting 0331) that is a turd and is prone to cracking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted July 30, 2014 Share Posted July 30, 2014 Also, the exhaust ports are smaller on 00 and newer. I cannot remember the year, but I believe 95 or 96 also introduced one long bridge for the main caps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnj92131 Posted July 30, 2014 Author Share Posted July 30, 2014 Stay away from the 00/01 XJ engines. There are a lot of subtle differences on those, but more importantly, they have a cylinder head (casting 0331) that is a turd and is prone to cracking. Yes, the head to go with is the original H.O. head. Lots of them at the pick n pull yards for cheap and no cracking problems like the small oval ports. Think the old H.O. head bolts on to the later blocks with no issues. Just seemed like a good idea to get a later block if I could for not much extra money. But even the latest XJ blocks are close to 15 years old now. Also, the exhaust ports are smaller on 00 and newer. I cannot remember the year, but I believe 95 or 96 also introduced one long bridge for the main caps The "long bridge" for the main caps was like 97 some time, with the first NHV improvements. Hornbrod reposted a casting number link there: http://comancheclub.com/topic/43896-a-40l-question/ Great resource. The link to the casting numbers should be pinned in the tech section. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeepman Posted July 30, 2014 Share Posted July 30, 2014 car-part.com This is a wrecker database that may help you in searching for the nest price and options... Not sure where you guys are getting your info but I have a Shop with first hand experience and part out most of the Jeep Models (no Liberty's, Patriots or Compass Yet) and the 4.0L engine is EXACTLY the same from 91-99 regardless of which Jeep it is in, the 00-06 is another story as the bosses are different from those Years in a TJ/WJ However the 00-01 XJ 4.0L has the same bosses as the 91-99 but the head is the coil pack head and the alternator style changes to the internally regulated instead of the 91-99 externally regulated plus the other electronics that go with the 00+ changes... Also as stated earlier the 00+ head has smaller exhaust ports but if you have a 99 you may find that you have the smaller two piece manifolds but the head is the larger port heads as MOPAR cheated and used the old head with the newer manifolds... Just an FYI Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted July 31, 2014 Share Posted July 31, 2014 Age of the motor doesn't have anything to do with quality. John, I would simply buy a low miles one that sounds good. Do you really want to spend $900 on an engine that only has a useful shortblock? Then another $200 in parts and time to put your parts on it? Remember, jeep man is pretty much correct with the exception of sensors and all manifolds, flex plates, accessory brackets, and timing cover change (new p/s systems required change in timing window on cover or it would rub the belt) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BraxtonLinder Posted July 31, 2014 Share Posted July 31, 2014 I think instead of asking its answer to anyone, why you don’t directly check the local salvage junk yard and easily get information what you are looking for. If you don’t want to go there then take a look on the website like buyusedengine etc. that sell used engine for every car. You will know about the prices, specification and products they offer on used engine. Hope it is of help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnj92131 Posted August 3, 2014 Author Share Posted August 3, 2014 I found a 98 Cherokee XJ in a local yard. The engine over heated, so tthey want $200 for the short block as a rebuildable core. I will pick it up next week and it will be the starting point a stroker engine. Thanks for all the assistance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrankTheDog Posted August 5, 2014 Share Posted August 5, 2014 I guess that's the difference between California and New England. You guys have tons of rust free bodies and not enough engines and we have drivetrains galore here with not enough decent bodies to go around. I just brought home a nice running 1999 XJ today that I bought for $400 dollars. It has what we consider light rust and it didn't pass inspection because of a check engine light(gas cap) and an airbag light. Runs mint with 163k on it. I'm going to put it on the road the way it is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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