Lowly Posted June 30, 2015 Author Share Posted June 30, 2015 Shelby thank you! I am just too lazy to find them myself :yes: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shelbyluvv Posted June 30, 2015 Share Posted June 30, 2015 No problem Clark. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lowly Posted November 14, 2016 Author Share Posted November 14, 2016 Okay! Like I mentioned this is a slow build. Also being deployed for awhile didn't help for progress. I AM STILL HERE! :p After almost a year and it is time!!!!! Let the Jill and Jane mayhem continue! This will be Janes third engine in 3 years 0.o glad it's a classic six this time round! I am nervous but also excited. This is a HUGE project for me and those helping.    She is in!   Jane has been gutted.   Janes empty bay.   Don't she look sexy!  I decided on doing a six because if I did a 350, it just wouldn't be a Jeep in my opinion. Each to their own but I am happy with this. Also with this engine means the manche will now be automatic and not standard. I was not too happy about this, but it will be for the best when on the trails. Just one less thing for me to worry about. I will miss shifting though a lot! Also hoping to make the four wheel drive work so that I can really get serious about taking this truck off road. More pics to come! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neohic Posted November 15, 2016 Share Posted November 15, 2016 Welcome back, Clark! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88whitemanche Posted November 15, 2016 Share Posted November 15, 2016 3rd? What are you doing to these engines? Lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wiggilez Posted November 15, 2016 Share Posted November 15, 2016 3rd? What are you doing to these engines? Lol  X2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lowly Posted November 19, 2016 Author Share Posted November 19, 2016 3rd? What are you doing to these engines? Lol  The first 2.5 got hydro locked in a Georgia stream after going too deep going offroad theirs a good video on my thread of it. I thought I cleaned it up good but on the trip back to MN that engine threw a rod through the engine block I think do to hairline fractures in the engine from the cold water/hot engine when it went into the stream. The 2.5 that replaced it was pulled from a 1986 Commanche in a junkyard. Pretty strong running engine for sitting all those years biggest issue was it had a v-belt and I had to remove all the components to the serpentine belt. Put it in within a week and then drove it all the way out to NY. Ran fine but I have always been on the lookout for a good inline six. Finally found a good donor this past year before I deployed just now getting to it. As to what I will do with the 2.5 that was in it not sure it's a good engine just don't need it anymore. Hoping the new one is just as good.  Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lowly Posted January 19, 2017 Author Share Posted January 19, 2017 Having some issues with the Jeep starts up fine but when I give it gas it dies. Seems like it's very hard for it to move under its own power not sure what it is. Meanwhile got the new driveshaft in. We decided to make a custom one as the old one was just not big enough as it was meant for a 2.5 and now I am running a 4.0. This new drive shaft looks really good. Also got some new exhaust pipe which was needed.    Looks nice and new! On top of that project, the bench seat had to go. The donor seats fit but needed to have custom brackets built for them.   Might be a good project to replace the seats later for now I will cover them and just want to get them in.   Next, I really want to get it running again under its own power. Got to figure that out and then to tackel the 4 wheel drive. Which will be another huge project. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRUNKMAR1NE Posted January 20, 2017 Share Posted January 20, 2017 Hey i know it's been a while but do you have the stuff on the tube doors Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Briazz Manche Fu Posted January 20, 2017 Share Posted January 20, 2017 Great looking truck, the colors rock, keep the pics coming Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lowly Posted January 23, 2017 Author Share Posted January 23, 2017 Hey i know it's been a while but do you have the stuff on the tube doors  What did you want to know about the tube doors? I still have mine post 90 on page 5. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lowly Posted February 5, 2017 Author Share Posted February 5, 2017 Seats are in!   Got the front axle out of the Cherokee in order to put 4 wheel drive into my Comanche.    Slowly getting there.... I was thinking about doing the dash too but I don't know if that is too much work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lowly Posted February 17, 2017 Author Share Posted February 17, 2017 Soooo almost three years to the day since I bought this Comanche and I have learned that I like driving them NOT working on them. I just don't know enough about them or have the skills to do big projects. That being said it was always a dream to get four wheel drive into the beast. Today I have done just that. :D  New hoses  Front drive shaft fits just perfectly. I credit CC for the help in making sure it would match. That 1998 Jeep Cherokee fit pretty well in most respects.   And finally... Front shots. I fired up the new 6 cylinder and the 4 wheel drive works well.      As you can see the gears are clearly labeled because well last time I had such an issue with the rear trying to figure out if they were 3.55. Now the next question, I want to upgrade the gears but should I go with 4.56 or 4.88??? I really would like to be able to still go 65 on the highway soooo 4.56? But I also would like the option to put on 37-inch tires if need by. Also, should I go with a locker in the front and rear or just the rear? What is better for a locker, air? Or any good suggestions? Thanks again for the help guys. So happy to finally have this done will not be doing another swap anytime soon haha. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted February 18, 2017 Share Posted February 18, 2017 IMHO 4.88 gears are asking for trouble in the D30 (at least the conventional D30).  I would stick with 4.56 if you're going to spend the money. Gear contact gets dicey at ratios lower than that with a D30.  37" tires are at the outer limits of what a D30 can do. With that in mind I would either suggest leaving the front end open, or a good replacement case LSD like the Truetrac. I would also suggest spending the money on a truss. If you really have money to spend then RCV axleshafts are a good idea, as they run much smoother than conventional u-joint shafts and that does somewhat alleviate stress from the front end. You will either need a new carrier or to buy thick gears to regear the D30. The advantage of thick gears on a stock carrier is they do not deflect quite as much as normal gears would on a stock/replacement carrier, likewise a Truetrac is a very rigid design and will support the gears well even if you buy the (correct) one to run normal gears. Thick gears are also generally more expensive than normal gears, and not all manufacturers offer thick gears.  I'm running a Zip Locker (air) in my rear. Yukon did not really impress me with it, and I would probably not purchase another one unless the price point was unbeatable. An ARB is more money but my experience with them is they are a more complete/better product.  It all comes down to what you want to spend though. Yukon products can be had cheap if you know a dealer. Eaton is much harder to move on, but ARB can also be found for a good price at the right time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lowly Posted February 18, 2017 Author Share Posted February 18, 2017 Dirty Commanche I think you brought up some really great points. Yes after doing some reading, I think 4.88 would cause a lot of stress on the dana 30 up front.  4.56 would let me go a little faster on the highway and I think I want to do 35-inch tires which 4.56 would have no issue in handling.  As to a truss and RCV axle shafts hmm yes very nice goodies but for now. I don't think I will do them. If I find a nice non-rusty front end (somewhere in the south) and put that in I will go with this option I think. I also think I will leave the front open with no locker for now. (I am so impressed with the big difference the 4 wheel drive makes already)  I will look into the thick gear option never heard of them. I really think locking the rear is a good move. I have a nice Dana 44 which a CC member sold me about 2 years ago and if I put an ARB in there that sounds like the best option from what you suggested. Thanks so much for your advice! Open to lots of options at the moment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted February 18, 2017 Share Posted February 18, 2017 The D44 is a good axle, and if you're going to spend money on a locker it would be the one to put it in.  If you want to be cheaper and get a Zip Locker (mine was cheap, I will admit that, I have a dealer that works hard for me) then make sure you order the sleeves for the ring gear bolts. In my build thread I think I posted enough information that a guy could order a Zip and not have a terrible time installing it. There was just a few unexpected things, such as needing the bolt sleeves, and no information on wiring the switch for the air valve, otherwise it was reasonably straightforward.  Look at the Ox Locker too. I ruled it out because of pricing given I did not want to run the cable shifter, but honestly I feel it is a superior design to the ARB and Zip because you can actuate it to the locked position with the supplied 'bolt' if need be. It is a very strong design and comes with a bulletproof cover. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted February 18, 2017 Share Posted February 18, 2017 I've never seen thick gears for a D30 - don't think they are manufactured. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted February 18, 2017 Share Posted February 18, 2017 I've never seen thick gears for a D30 - don't think they are manufactured.  I thought Motive did, but it looks like they only make the JK ones. No comments on installing JK gears in a normal D30; I don't recall if it was determined to be possible or not, at the very least it isn't a bolt in swap.  Reid Racing used to sell thick D30 gears though, but it appears they have long discontinued them. They might have also only been for LP applications, and who knows where they were sourcing them from or getting them cut. I'm surprised nobody else has stepped up though, but the JK market really is the only market for light Jeep stuff that manufacturers care for anymore. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted February 18, 2017 Share Posted February 18, 2017 Plenty available for the rear D44 - got a 4.10 Yukon set in mine. :yes: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lowly Posted February 25, 2017 Author Share Posted February 25, 2017 Forgot to include a video of the new 4.0 running. It sounds great!  Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lowly Posted February 25, 2017 Author Share Posted February 25, 2017 So I decided to go with 4.56 gears. I think that will be a good fit for the Jeep. For the front, I went with an Eaton Truetrac and for the rear, I went with the Eaton E-locker. I did the locker in the rear because the dana 44 will hold up better with it. Overall, I think it will be a great set up!     A couple of questions that I need some opinions on. With 4.56 gears will I be able to run 33-inch tires without too high of RMP's? Ideally, I would like to stay around 2800 RPM's at high speeds correct? If 33's don't work should I just make the jump to 35's? If I do 35's what kind of lift would I need for the Comanche? I was thinking about doing a 6-inch lift from rocky road outfitters but I know you guys have a lot more experience than I do with lifts if there is a better company out there let me know. Like to spend my money on good quality products. Would a 5 inch lift work with 35's? Thanks for any input guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88whitemanche Posted February 25, 2017 Share Posted February 25, 2017 Since you have an auto That gear ratio should be ideal for daily driving and weekend warrior for 35s... I have 4.10s on my xj with 35s and it's outstanding on gas and give back that oomph in the driveline... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lowly Posted March 12, 2017 Author Share Posted March 12, 2017 Okay after a lot of research and one very good deal I was able to secure some tires!  What I got:  A set of 4 (Dick Cepek Extreme Country, 35x12.50x15) on 15x8 level 8 tracker wheels. Got 5 rims out of the deal so not too shabby if I wanted to get a full-size spare. 5th rim has never been used and was still in the box! Tires seem pretty good shape for being used. They also have a TPMS sensor in them not that my Jeep could use it. Got the whole packet for 1000 bucks. I think I scored.  Now these are a 5x5 bolt pattern and the jeep I think is a 5x4.5 bolt pattern so I will need to get some wheel spacers. I am debating between the washer-type wheel spacers which are cheaper or bolt-on wheel spacers (1.25") which would probably be better? I don't want the wheels to stick out too far from the jeep and look like a skateboard.     Also, need to find a good lift that will work for these tires. If you guys have any recommendations I'll take them. I was thinking about going with General Springs military wrap 3/2 with some drop shackles for the rear and some Metal cloak true dual rate coils (4.5) in the front. Not sure how it would look but then try to balance the front and rear from there. Also looking for a good High over the top knuckle kits Iron road seemed best. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88whitemanche Posted March 13, 2017 Share Posted March 13, 2017 I have 35s on mine with 3.5" re coils up front and an xj add a leaf in the rear with sagged springs and cut fenders Since you already have bushwhackers it shouldn't be a problem for rubbing unless you want a tall look for your truck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dzimm Posted March 13, 2017 Share Posted March 13, 2017 Do NOT use the washer style wheel spacer. If you are gonna use them, always use the bolt on ones. That and you can't have a wheel adapter in the washer style, they all bolt on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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