cocco78 Posted July 10, 2010 Author Share Posted July 10, 2010 lookin good looks like you need a new shop once the suspension goes in that is :P looks like a tight fit allready xD This is it, suspension is in and its sitting on its own... This is the ride height I was going for and it came out almost perfect, low and mean, 6'8" to the top of the cab. 4.5" coils up front and SOA on stock MJ leaves is all you need for 38" tires.... :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freakjeep93 Posted July 10, 2010 Share Posted July 10, 2010 BADA$$!!!!! that is purly awsome Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Comanche County Posted July 13, 2010 Share Posted July 13, 2010 Super tough! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cocco78 Posted September 2, 2010 Author Share Posted September 2, 2010 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Posted September 9, 2010 Share Posted September 9, 2010 Looks pretty stout, just make sure you don't get it wet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cocco78 Posted September 9, 2010 Author Share Posted September 9, 2010 Looks pretty stout, just make sure you don't get it wet. we'll see how it goes, I just might redo it with some 1/4" plate I have laying around... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cocco78 Posted September 10, 2010 Author Share Posted September 10, 2010 Its back in the garage for final tear down, welding, and paint... Image Not Found I'm not proud of this, but I bought a bracket. I've been sick and lazy lately :| Part of my axle collection... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
btm24 Posted September 10, 2010 Share Posted September 10, 2010 very nice build man keep it up :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted September 10, 2010 Share Posted September 10, 2010 you ARE planning on trussing that axle, right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cocco78 Posted September 11, 2010 Author Share Posted September 11, 2010 you ARE planning on trussing that axle, right? Didn't really plan on it, the 60 is pretty stout, and I don't plan on rock racing or anything... I do have alot of gussets cut out that I will be adding that are not pictured. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86MJ2WD Posted November 12, 2010 Share Posted November 12, 2010 Awsome build love it !!! will be watching with envy !! :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cocco78 Posted November 12, 2010 Author Share Posted November 12, 2010 Not much progress right now, I'm doing some rust repair on the frame and getting the transmission crossmember bolted/welded on. Also re-gearing the front to 4.10's to match the rear with some used gears. I need to get this out of the garage and pushing snow soon! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cocco78 Posted January 3, 2011 Author Share Posted January 3, 2011 Minor setback... The U-joints were welded in the axle shafts. I've heard of tacking a cap, but not laying a bead of weld around the damn cap. So these shafts are pretty much junk, I managed to save the short side inner but the stub is toast... On the lookout for 35 spline stubs and hubs or drive flanges now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirteatr717 Posted January 4, 2011 Share Posted January 4, 2011 :drool: Lcog manches tickle my fancy :bowdown: can't wait to see what you make as a rear bumper! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cody4359 Posted January 6, 2011 Share Posted January 6, 2011 nice beater :cheers: . how did you mount the tranny Xmember? just bolt on or bolt/weld?? and did you make it or is that the clayton xmember? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackdiamond Posted June 10, 2011 Share Posted June 10, 2011 are you planning on doing radius arms with heims? if so don't. the upper arms have to have give in them. hence rubber bushings. if you put heims in the upper control arms it will rip stuff apart, or it won't flex at all. if you are set on using heims, and doing the radius arms, then only put one upper on. that will work fine. but with the 2 on there it will try twisting you axles, and it will find something it can break off. just letting you know. i know from personal experience. nice build though, i like where you are going with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H3RESQ Posted June 13, 2011 Share Posted June 13, 2011 And make sure you put some side supports on those (especially the passenger side long one!) upper link mounts. Those need some serious triangulted support or you WILL bend them eventually. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cocco78 Posted July 6, 2011 Author Share Posted July 6, 2011 OK, back on tract here! I was out of work for a while and wandered the country randomly for few months, got a new Job last fall, and have been busy working! I haven't touched my TJ or the MJ in a while now so its time to get back to work. nice beater :cheers: . how did you mount the tranny Xmember? just bolt on or bolt/weld?? and did you make it or is that the clayton xmember? Bolt and weld. I made it myself, but it is a copy of the Clayton xmember, why try to reinvent something that works? are you planning on doing radius arms with heims? if so don't. the upper arms have to have give in them. hence rubber bushings. if you put heims in the upper control arms it will rip stuff apart, or it won't flex at all. if you are set on using heims, and doing the radius arms, then only put one upper on. that will work fine. but with the 2 on there it will try twisting you axles, and it will find something it can break off. just letting you know. i know from personal experience. nice build though, i like where you are going with it. I have a TJ setup the same way, Currie JJ on one end of the lower arm and a stock Jeep bushing on the axle end. The short upper gets a JJ on the axle end and a heim where it attaches to the LCA. Yes, radius arms bind and limit flex, but I have 14" bilstiens on my TJ with this setup and use almost the whole shock. I do go through the stock Jeep bushings about once a season. I don't think I would ever do a 3 link on something that is driven on the road, but thats just me. And make sure you put some side supports on those (especially the passenger side long one!) upper link mounts. Those need some serious triangulted support or you WILL bend them eventually. Of course, your not seeing the finished product yet just slow progress of a build here... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirteatr717 Posted July 7, 2011 Share Posted July 7, 2011 That is just pure awesomeness! Love the h2 rims Keep going dude! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cocco78 Posted January 28, 2012 Author Share Posted January 28, 2012 New rear driveshaft from Trattons for $200. But even after all my measuring its at least an inch to short for comfort. It didn't come with a slip yoke end, so I reused my stock one. But it turns out the xj/mj yoke is pretty square and binds against the driveshaft at about a 5 degee angle. From a little google work people are selling these extended length high angle slip yokes for XJ's that are 5/8" longer and are moure U shapped. Turns out they are stock YJ yokes and people are sellling them for $75 and up. I'll post up some pics of the new yoke I bought off ebay for next to nothing. But that extra 5/8" isn't enough, luckily I have the anti wrap spring perches that I can move the axle forward or back 3/4". So with that I should have enough spline action at the slip yoke Well :roll: I received my new high angle yoke today, works great but its less than 1/4" longer than the original. With everything together I had just under 1" of spline engagement at the t-case. So for the 1,753rd time I removed the rear axle... Luckily I used a set of those long anti wrap spring perches with the extra holes in them :D I just had to drill out the hole slightly larger to fit over the center pin on the springs and slid the axle back up and now 1" further forward... I now have just under 2" of spline engagement at the t-case. Everything is good to go. Next step is to bleed the brakes, torque down both pinion nuts, gear oil front and rear, finish installing new radiator, new hoses, relocate battery to the bed, make new cables, attach crossmember to "frame better, build rock sliders, exo cage, vortec 6.0L, 4L80, atlas... :o Whoop's, some of those might be on my wish list and not my to do list :mrgreen: More pics to follow... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guanaco.13 Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 sick build man keep it up. :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cocco78 Posted January 28, 2012 Author Share Posted January 28, 2012 stock xj/mj yoke on right, stock YJ yoke on left. The YJ yoke is also advertised as an extended length high angle upgrade for XJ/MJ applications. Here is the stock yoke, you can see how this just won't work. I had a bunch of pictures on my phone comparing the 2 yokes and how much better the YJ joke works but they vanished off my phone??? Kinda pissed me off, junk phone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnny quest Posted February 27, 2012 Share Posted February 27, 2012 very nice. if i can get my rear in gear, your truck will have a shortbed twin!! 60/14, 4" front/soa rear, 37's on H2's, blah blah blah Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cocco78 Posted October 23, 2013 Author Share Posted October 23, 2013 getting ready for winter... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MancheKid86 Posted October 25, 2013 Share Posted October 25, 2013 siiiiiiiiick :rock on: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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