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Military Wrapped Springs With Lift, Group Buy


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The springs are bare metal but they do have a light grease coating on them to help against rust but you are certainly welcome to paint them just don't powder coat them and you'd be fine. You could take them apart rather easily if you'd like with the clip bolt style clips and then reassemble.

 

Gogmorgo shipping would be a lot higher than $90 to Canada so if you follow the link from earlier and then add 2 to your cart and go to checkout you can calculate a rate to Canada.

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Couple of things to keep in mind. If you are daily driving your truck, you will want to have this worked out ahead of time.

Some of this only applies to those with OEM springs and perches.

Have a 9/16" metal drill bit ready. ( to drill out the perch centering hole to accomodate the larger pin on the new springs)

Expect to have to purchase longer shocks. Mine lifted only 1 1/2" and my shocks won't extend far enough. Also at full droop you don't want the shock to be the limiting factor.

You will most likely also need a longer brake line to the rear proportioning valve.

The bolts that got through the spring eyes if original will be rusty and you may have to cut them out with a saw or grinder. Might want to think about 4 new ones and nuts to go along. They are 9/16" x 5" long grade 8 bolts. The originals are metric 9.8, but the 9/16" standards fit the new eye bushings much tighter. The standard bolts are just a tad larger, and a perfect fit all the way around. Better to have this stuff ready to go.

 

That's all I can think of at the moment.

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I had to replace the center pins in my springs awhile back, they were 5/16" and eventually broke. So I ordered larger 3/8" pins with a 9/16" head. Drilled out the perches for 9/16" and the head fit tight and right. If the round head is 9/16" that means it fits in a 9/16" hole. Like to fit a 1/2" bolt you drill a 1/2" hole.

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I had to replace the center pins in my springs awhile back, they were 5/16" and eventually broke. So I ordered larger 3/8" pins with a 9/16" head. Drilled out the perches for 9/16" and the head fit tight and right. If the round head is 9/16" that means it fits in a 9/16" hole. Like to fit a 1/2" bolt you drill a 1/2" hole.

 

X2. I drilled a 9/16" hole and the pin fit right in. You want a tight fit.

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OK.

 

The 'if' was my out

(if the head is 9/16")

I wasn't sure if they under sized the bolt head or not.

 

But I wanted to explain why the hole had to fit the head, not the shank of the bolt.

 

 

 

 

 

...truth be told I don't use them fancy perch bolts,

I chuck a regular bolt in a drill,

and spin it while I hit the bolt head wth an angle grinder till it's round & fits the perch hole.

 

Most of the time the bolt head itself isn't tall enough to fully engage the perch hole,

so I spin a nut all the way down to the bolt head first,

and grind the bolt head + the nut down to the right size.

 

Not a recommendation for anyone,

just 'splainin why I wasn't sure if the head or the hole was exactly 9/16"

:yes:

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Maybe you did not understand my question..

I was asking of those who have actually bought and installed them as to what lift they got from the spring... if you don't have first had results on your rig to share then move along... I didn't need a link to a past post that did not answer my question if it had I would not ask .. simply put if people have bought and installed these and post up what lift they think they got then i can make a educated decision as to what the average is among those who post up actual results . i will make the determination as to weather i can use these or not in my application. and i would not decide that based on a vague post as to 1.5n to 3" lift. i want actual results. as much as i want to buy these i can't accommodate more than 1" of lift above what i am at running factory 4x4 springs in soa configuration.

 

 

See post #94

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Comanchedouche... oops, I mean dude....

 

HE DOES HAVE THE F'ING SPRINGS!!!

 

Please keep the flaming out of this as he does have a valid point. A min 1 1/2" to max 3" lift is pretty vague. He is at the same point as me I don't want to run any higher than stock springs in SOA, reason I opted out of this buy. I'm also curious to see actual results of lift after the springs have settled in some.

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I installed a set of these springs about four years ago from the same vendor (same spring specs w/o the front military wrap). I got nearly 3" of lift over what I was with the old springs. The actual amount of lift varies with the condition of the original condition, thus the 1-1/2" to max 3" spec. My original springs were shot. They eventually settled down about 1/2" in the following year. You will definitely be higher using these on a SOA rig than using the stock springs.

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My question is "what will it do to the ride quality" using the 3/2 setup? I'm an old guy and I like smooth... My truck right now has the 3/1 setup and it rides real nice. The down side to that is you put 400 lbs in the back and the truck will drop 4". These short wheelbase trucks can get real choppy in the ride with stiff springs.

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He (Biotex) has the springs, he installed them, he measured the amount of lift he got......

 

What more does comanchedude want? That was what he (comanchedude) asked for and then he told the person (Biotex) that had the information to "move on"

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My question is "what will it do to the ride quality" using the 3/2 setup? I'm an old guy and I like smooth... My truck right now has the 3/1 setup and it rides real nice. The down side to that is you put 400 lbs in the back and the truck will drop 4". These short wheelbase trucks can get real choppy in the ride with stiff springs.

 

Trying to ignore the bickering children..

 

I didn't notice too much difference going from 3+1 to 3+2 MT leafs. Really the only difference is the additional overload leaf. The free arch is the same on both. They did ride a little bit stiffer, but my old springs were really tired, so I attributed it to that. The rear shocks have a lot to do with ride quality also.

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Thanks for the info

 

I installed a set of these springs about four years ago from the same vendor (same spring specs w/o the front military wrap). I got nearly 3" of lift over what I was with the old springs. The actual amount of lift varies with the condition of the original condition, thus the 1-1/2" to max 3" spec. My original springs were shot. They eventually settled down about 1/2" in the following year. You will definitely be higher using these on a SOA rig than using the stock springs.

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I didn't notice too much difference going from 3+1 to 3+2 MT leafs. Really the only difference is the additional overload leaf. The free arch is the same on both. They did ride a little bit stiffer, but my old springs were really tired, so I attributed it to that. The rear shocks have a lot to do with ride quality also.

 

Truck is still apart for paint, so unable to test drive, but based on feel alone I would have to completely agree with hornbrods findings. What I did was to remove the shocks, and with the new springs only on one side, and the factory 3/1 on the other side, bed removed, I bounced the truck. I tried to get a feel of the spring rate so I could report back to those worrying it would be stiffer. I was not able to tell any difference while trying to compress each side. From what I could tell, these springs should ride exactly the same until the 2 overload springs come into play.

 

Before I installed the new springs, I measured using these specs:

 

Rear:

------

Measure from the top of the axle tube to the underside of the frame rail inboard of the rubber bump stop.

 

For 2WD models the distance should be 8.2" +/- 1/2".

For 4WD models the distance should be 9.2" +/- 1/2"

 

I accertained that my old springs were not sagging at all, as they were within the tolerances listed above. I believe this is why I only netted 1.5" of lift.

 

In a SOA configuration, one could remove the bottom overload spring, and it would lower the lift by its thickness (1/4" IIRC). You would still benefit from the military wrap which is what I was after from the start. Hope this helps...

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Due to the differences in packages made by Jeep for the Comanche and figuring in your current sag is why I can't say this spring will give you x amount of lift. I can tell you if you're soa then you will see an even bigger increase because now you have to factor in the pack thickness which is a little less than 3/4" than the standard 3/1 spring (doesn't effect sua), the extra 3/4" arch put in this spring and just the fact these springs are stronger. So minimum lift on soa would be 1-1/2" but an educated guess would say closer to 2-1/4".

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can these springs be run without bottom overloads.. without compromising the spring? can 1 leaf be removed like # 3 leaf just run a 2+ 1 .is this type of adjustments advisable or makes no matter to spring integrity? I don't use the truck to haul weight just off-road use. and some road use.

 

Thanks

 

Due to the differences in packages made by Jeep for the Comanche and figuring in your current sag is why I can't say this spring will give you x amount of lift. I can tell you if you're soa then you will see an even bigger increase because now you have to factor in the pack thickness which is a little less than 3/4" than the standard 3/1 spring (doesn't effect sua), the extra 3/4" arch put in this spring and just the fact these springs are stronger. So minimum lift on soa would be 1-1/2" but an educated guess would say closer to 2-1/4".

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  • 1 month later...

Was just looking into these but right now they're listed for $200 each. Is there a coupon code or something I can put in to get the $150 price or would it be best to call and order for that price?

You need to call them to get the CC discount I believe.

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