Chryco 8.25 vs. Ford 8.8

[ChiefJosh]

Okay, so I've decided to throw in the towel on my D35. No more messing around. I'll do what I have to in order to find somebody to weld spring perches and shock mounts, no big deal.

 

This is what I want to know- what is the big deal with the 8.8 over the 8.25? It seems like the 8.25 would be easier to swap in- width, brakes, etc. Is the 8.8 that much stronger than a 29 spline 8.25? I'm leaning toward the 8.25, just to stay all Jeep. I doubt I'll be regearing any time in the future, aside from whatever I get in the axles I find. I'll either go 3.55's or 4.10's if I can find em. Any thoughts? I'm trying to stay as economical as possible.

[DirtyComanche]

Well... What size tire do you plan?

 

 

 

The 31 spline 8.8 (exploders) is really quite strong. I've seen 36s and 37s on them with no problems with failures - that is under lighter rigs (not fullsizes). As a bonus, if you find a 96+ one you will get some nice disk brakes. You will probably want 1" spacers for each side though. Although, it is only an inch narrower than an 8.25.

 

 

An 29 spline 8.25 will work well with up to about 34 or 35" tires. Disk brakes can be done using junkyard parts (crown vics). They are limited to 4.56 gears being the lowest. There also isn't much aftermarket for them. But they don't hang as low as a 8.8 - which has a bloody huge centre section. Just make SURE you get a 29 spline version. The 27 is only as strong as a D35.

[Eagle]

The Ford 8.8 is stronger, but you are correct that the Chryco 8.25 offers several advantages. It's the right width, and the diff is centered on the axle. Nothing about the 8.8 is insurmountable, but I think the 8.25 (in the 29-spline version) is a good choice. They're both c-clip axles, so the Ford doesn't offer any major advantage there.

 

Go for it.

[DirtyComanche]

The 8.8 is only offset 2-3". And it's the right way (away from the gas tank). It would never be an issue in a vehicle as long as a MJ.

 

 

A YJ/TJ is a different matter.

[ChiefJosh]

I think I'm leaning toward the 8.25, mainly to stay away from brake and spacing issues. Not that I wouldn't love to have discs, but right now that's just not a priority. Right now I'm running 31's, and honestly, I'm not sure if I'm gonna go bigger til these wear out. Who knows, 32's, 33's, maybe 34's, but doubtful.

 

Does anybody know what gears were offered in the 8.25? Or what packages offered a factory limited slip? Just a thought.

[DirtyComanche]

Almost all (all later ones with 29 spline) 4.0/auto cherokees had 3.55s.

 

 

If you want 4.0s you'll need to find a 2.5/auto.

[Pete M]

You mean 2.5L/stick for 4.10s, right? :D

[DirtyComanche]

You mean 2.5L/stick for 4.10s, right? :D

 

 

Hell if I know.

 

 

I thought sticks always had higher gears in the diff because the auto tranny had a higher first gear... At least, that's the reasoning I use. It has been proven that chrysler thinks different than me.

[Eagle]

In the AMC years, the 2.5L had different ratios for 4-speeds, 5-speeds and automatics. Once Chrysler took over, they eliminated the 4-speeds and settled on using 4.10 gearing for all the 2.5L XJs.

[CWLONGSHOT]

You will do just fine with EITHER AXLE!!

 

Here is the facts as I know them:

The 8.8 is availble with two different spline counts. Both are stronger Than the D35. With 31 splines, its the strongest of the three axles, larger axle shafts, larger bearings and axle tubes. It was made for a heavier vehicle. The "C"clips are really a moot point as they have no real bearing on stregnth of an axle or its shafts. The 28 Spl version is still much stronger than a D35. Disc brakes are very common on post 1996 axles form exploders. they are 5/8" narrower (perside) than the D35 or 8.25 axle. The center section os off set, but has no bearing on anything so don't give it another thought. Axle ratios avalible to 4:56 from the factory, 4:88 from the after market. Lockers, LS's and gears are readily avalible and priced on an even keel to others.

 

The 8.25 is avaible in two different spline counts. Both are stronger than the D35. With 29 splines its a good strong axle, its got 3" axle tubes, good sized bearings but small brakes and is plenty strong. Again as with the 8.8, The "C"clips are really a moot point as they have no real bearing on stregnth of an axle or its shafts. If you break a axle it can come out. Its a problem wit the D35 cause alot of axle shafts break in that axle, not really the case with the 8.25 29spl. Its the same width as the D35. Its center section is centered. Axle ratios to 4:56 avalible, none higher in the aft mkt. Limited selection on lockers and LS as well as gears. Prices MUCH higher for all three.

 

Many prople are hung up on the "C" clip axles. its meerly the way the axles are held in. Yes you can break a "C" clip but its not common to do at all. It gets a bad rap from the D35. Cause the D35 has a weak case and weak axle shafts once you start adding larger tires and lockers. Its not a real worry with the 29 spl 8.25 or 31 spl 8.8.

 

The 8.25 27 spl is still a stronger axle than the D35, because it has slightly larger shafts but a much stronger housing. The 29 spl version is readily avalible, priced about the same and stronger.

 

If your not needing any traction device and don't intend on regearing, I would go 8.25. If not go with the 8.8 and never look back.

 

Yes I have done the 8.8 swap in my TJ and a friends XJ. Yes I have broken a D35 on the street with 31"s. I have a 29 spl 8.25 W/3:55 gears and a LS sitting on the garage floor. I never broke my non "C" clip D35 from the MJ but DID swap in a D44 for added security and peace of mind...

 

Just my 2cents,

Good luck,

CW

[Pete M]

Just a slight mod/addition to the above facts. All Explorer rear axles are 31 spline. The 28 spline ones are found in cars and rangers and they are too narrow or have the wrong bolt pattern. All 95+ Explorer 8.8s have disks.

car-part can help you find either axle.

[BARILLMS]

There's no comparison between an 8.8 and a 8.25.

An 8.8 is stronger than a Dana 44, you can run 40s on an 8.8 without problems. Plus the discs! C'mon, hands down. I just bought one with 4.10s for $200 from a 98 Explorer.

[CEThomas]

If you are near central Ohio I can give you a place that sales them for $70 :D

 

Charles

[ChiefJosh]

Thanks CW, that was a great essay. J/K, it was just what I needed. One of my main drawbacks on running the 8.8 is that I'd have to figure out how I'd run e-brake cables. I"m running a 5spd, so that is definately something I want so that I can park on an incline and leave the truck running without worrying about it rolling off somewhere.

 

MORE has a cable kit for this, but it's like $125 for a couple cables. I'm not gonna pay $125 for brake cables when I'm only paying $25 for the axle (either one) from my u-pull-it yard. What type of cables does an 8.8 run? Similar at all to other Jeep stuff, just a different length? Or completely different? What are my other options? I don't want to go into this not having any idea how I can figure all that out.

 

And what's the scoop on the driveshaft? I assume the Jeep driveshaft won't bolt right up to the 8.8, what needs to be done to make it work?

[jeepaholic]

8.8 w/ 4.10 and disc for 70$....Not here in georgia....Heck it took me a month to find the d30 front w/ 4.10's and it cost me 350 bones...I will take one of those 8.8 rears if anybody got one.. :bowdown:

[mjeff87]

If you are near central Ohio I can give you a place that sales them for $70 :D

 

Charles

 

For that price, I could find myself in OH over a weekend.....seriously.

 

Jeff

[carnuck]

I tripped over the ultimate rear diff. A '70 Valiant Dana 60 from a big block Cuda car! Same bolt pattern (haven't checked width yet) I hear ground clearance is an issue because they are so deep..

 

Waiting to find out how much he wants for it and the width before doing anything else.

[87manche]

If you are near central Ohio I can give you a place that sales them for $70 :D

 

Charles

 

For that price, I could find myself in OH over a weekend.....seriously.

 

Jeff

You can stay at my house Jeff.

I know that milliron has a whole stack of them down there, if you don't bring in an axle core it will cost you $100, and have everything on it but calipers, they don't sell axles with calipers. my brother picked up two, he used the rotrs and e-brake stuff already on the axle, and just put calipers on it. I think he was about $250 after the perches, flange adapter and calipers.

[DirtyComanche]

...you can run 40s on an 8.8 without problems.

 

 

 

With a 2.5L on the street.

[razrwild]

$70 and $100 8.8's? ROAD TRIP!!

hmmm only a 7 hour drive i may have to head up on a weekend or something.

[feerocknok]

...you can run 40s on an 8.8 without problems.

With a 2.5L on the street.

That's what I was thinking, plus a slush box.

[87manche]

for all of those that want one we'll see if we can't work something out.

I could run down, pick one up and you could pick it up at my place. I'm about 25 minutes from milliron.

here's the phone number

419-747-6522

last I knew they had stacks of 8.8's of all flavors, most were 3.73, but they had some 4.10s, about half had LSD.

[XJ Maki]

Thanks CW, that was a great essay. J/K, it was just what I needed. One of my main drawbacks on running the 8.8 is that I'd have to figure out how I'd run e-brake cables. I"m running a 5spd, so that is definately something I want so that I can park on an incline and leave the truck running without worrying about it rolling off somewhere.

 

MORE has a cable kit for this, but it's like $125 for a couple cables. I'm not gonna pay $125 for brake cables when I'm only paying $25 for the axle (either one) from my u-pull-it yard. What type of cables does an 8.8 run? Similar at all to other Jeep stuff, just a different length? Or completely different? What are my other options? I don't want to go into this not having any idea how I can figure all that out.

 

You can use the stock MJ e brake cables, you don't need the MORE cables. It's a piece of cake, costs under $5 and takes like an hour, here's a good write-up on it

 

And what's the scoop on the driveshaft? I assume the Jeep driveshaft won't bolt right up to the 8.8, what needs to be done to make it work?

 

You need a yoke to flang adapter that costs about $35 from NAPA, they'll probably have to order it (Spicer #2-2-1379). Or else you can get it from either Curry or MORE. The 4 bolts are a bit funky (12 point 12mm x 1.75) so snag the stock ones when you pull it or else you can pick them up at a Ford dealer for about $8 (Ford #N800594-S100).

 

With a spring over 8.8 on stock leafs the driveshaft worked but it was ideally about 1 1/2" short. I used a YJ slip-yoke ($30 ebay) which is 3/4" longer and it was fine. Eventually I twisted the stock driveshadt and had it re-tubed with a heavier wall tube to the exact right length ($120).

 

Also, since the MJ has a pretty large rear wheelwell, the slightly narrower axle was not a problem with both stock wheels and tires and off road wheels and tires. And the brakes are better...I have an 8.25 in my XJ and I hate the brakes, always sticking in the rain and they're weak, I've been thinking of upgrading it to an 8.8 just for the brakes.

[87manche]

little off topic.

You can put discs on the 8.25 easily enough

zj parts bolt on, and if you find a zj to rob at the junkyard it's cheap.

[pingpong]

I ran the 8.8 in Pong for a while, and the axle is a pure beast and can withstand lots of abuse. Only problems are you need to weld the tubes to the pumpkin, and get a beffy diff cover cause the stock one is crap.