HOrnbrod Posted December 7, 2015 Share Posted December 7, 2015 :drool: :drool: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88whitemanche Posted December 7, 2015 Share Posted December 7, 2015 :drool: :drool:X2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Akula69 Posted December 7, 2015 Author Share Posted December 7, 2015 Forgot the money shot: 2 Minutes after clear....its an alien! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Akula69 Posted December 9, 2015 Author Share Posted December 9, 2015 Progress on the gas tank issues - welded the old sender cap closed and ground down. I was going to use a gasoline resistant epoxy but decided to take a more permanent route... Inside Outside Found a steel rod that was slightly larger then the holes and ground it until fit, then mig welded. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Akula69 Posted December 10, 2015 Author Share Posted December 10, 2015 Finished up the cab last night: Also cut the hole and test fitted the 01XJ fuel sender in the JP5A tank (without the slosh pan). Its looks quite high, might have to fab a new set of tank straps and block it down from the bed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strokermjcomanche Posted December 10, 2015 Share Posted December 10, 2015 Nothing more beautiful than fresh paint , looks good . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87Warrior Posted December 11, 2015 Share Posted December 11, 2015 Beautiful! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Akula69 Posted December 30, 2015 Author Share Posted December 30, 2015 Been slow on the updates but have made some progress: Main harnesses are installed HVAC box updated and installed Sub-dash is installed Brake booster / Master Cylinder installed Steering box / shafts installed Door components installed Wiper components installed Working on wiring harness to rear modification and going to go with the load-sensing valve delete in favor of the Willwood proportioning valve and new brake lines all around. Some pictures: Got tired of messing with running back and forth to run the lines to the rear, so rigged up a holder so I could pull all the wires at once...don't know why I didn't think of this before... Shortened existing wires and eliminated unneeded wires for the rear doors and back hatch (after figuring out which ones went to back speakers and third brake light). Underhood shot. The engine install is waiting for brake lines and vacuum lines. More to come... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Akula69 Posted January 4, 2016 Author Share Posted January 4, 2016 Finished up all the electrical this weekend. Going with the LED tail lights and 3rd brake light/cargo light. Painted the interior plastics (B-pillar and cross cab trim). Took some experimenting cause there are like 4 shades of Agate. More to come Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Akula69 Posted January 5, 2016 Author Share Posted January 5, 2016 Put the inner panels on the doors last night and discovered the electric door locks will unlock but will not lock. Alexia has a great video on youtube here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CdKScE_l55g that I am using, but it appears the wire color codes for the 2001 XJ I salvaged are different. Using tone generator to trace, it appears I have pink / violet orange/violet from D/S door to harness; cross body harness to C5 connector for the pink / violet but the C7 connector has no orange / violet...it magically changes on the C7: two wires only - red / black and black / white with no tone signal at all. Appears I'll have to re-open the cross body harness to see where the wire has separated or spliced. Just my luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Akula69 Posted January 21, 2016 Author Share Posted January 21, 2016 Update: Have been steadily putting things back where they belong. Most aggravating thing is remembering where I stashed the parts....it has been somewhat of an adventure this time (even with them all carefully labeled!). Anyway - pictures: Most of the interior dash is installed and all the electronics are now working. The passenger side door had three breaks in the harness for the power windows problem resolution... drivers side had three breaks in the speaker leads. Had some trouble with the brake light switch until I realized I'd installed the pre-97 booster with the shorter pushrod.. :doh: Center console. Replaced all the Chrysler rocker switches with Daystar KU80011's in blue. Almost perfect fit with only 1/8 inch plastic removal with a Dremel. Have hooked one to the cargo bed LED's, the other two will be fog and driving lights (when bumper is installed) Putting his heart back in. Re-installing the exhaust downpipe and Cat took some vertical maneuvering and three jacks. Maybe I should have put it in before the engine/transmission? Major items left: gas tank and radiator install. More to come Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neohic Posted January 21, 2016 Share Posted January 21, 2016 Looking very good, sir! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted January 21, 2016 Share Posted January 21, 2016 That it is. Excellent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Akula69 Posted January 21, 2016 Author Share Posted January 21, 2016 Thanks guys. I really do not like the way the exhaust downpipe is so close to the oil pan - there has got to be some serious heat intrusion going on there (by the looks of the oil pans on engines I have rebuilt, evidence by way of baked on oil would indicate it must be almost boiling in there on the driver's side of the pan). I have looked at many different wraps for the manifolds and down pipes but have no confidence in them lasting for any amount of time (last check on Ryan's with digital thermometer produced readings above 500 degrees after warm up). Thinking about it still though..... :hmm: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted January 21, 2016 Share Posted January 21, 2016 A header would give you a little more distance.............. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted January 22, 2016 Share Posted January 22, 2016 I've had issues in the past with header wraps. There were a bunch of other factors which lead to ridiculous exhaust temps, but basically a gap in the wrap lead to a hole melted through a firewall (that met the tech requirements of the racing series) and then into the gas tank (also met tech), which happened to be right behind the driver's seat. It... wasn't great. The incident was severe enough the series banned exhaust wrap, in favour of better solutions. You can get exhaust systems ceramic coated, which eliminates quite a bit of radiating heat. My team wound up getting it done commercially, but I've also seen off-the-shelf aerosols. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Akula69 Posted January 22, 2016 Author Share Posted January 22, 2016 gogmorgo, on 21 Jan 2016 - 9:57 PM, said: I've had issues in the past with header wraps. There were a bunch of other factors which lead to ridiculous exhaust temps, but basically a gap in the wrap lead to a hole melted through a firewall (that met the tech requirements of the racing series) and then into the gas tank (also met tech), which happened to be right behind the driver's seat. It... wasn't great. The incident was severe enough the series banned exhaust wrap, in favour of better solutions. You can get exhaust systems ceramic coated, which eliminates quite a bit of radiating heat. My team wound up getting it done commercially, but I've also seen off-the-shelf aerosols. I never thought about the ceramic coating - thanks. I imagine its expensive (I just checked - uh yeah) but with heat being an issue in these engines I was casting around for ideas. Gonna have to save up for this one though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted January 22, 2016 Share Posted January 22, 2016 I want to say the DIY stuff was around $30 per can, although it might have been a two part process, meaning two $30 cans. I'll have to see what I can dig up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattman6 Posted January 26, 2016 Share Posted January 26, 2016 Very nice build! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Akula69 Posted February 7, 2016 Author Share Posted February 7, 2016 Next update is here! Sorry about the long lapses between updates but between work and life, I only get max 15 hours a week on him! Most all of the loose ends are coming together, completed the emission control system and front end has been buttoned up. installed the accumulator dryer and vacuumed the system the other night - left the pump hooked up and turned off at -25 hg - when I came out the next morning it was still at -25 hg.....I think this AC system is gonna be a good one! Anyway - to the pictures: I hooked up the exhaust header and down pipe the other day - struggled with it for quite some time until realized the support on the transmission was the wrong one...didn't even know they made two styles! See the difference? old style new style Front end all buttoned up - Finally! Engine bay. Only waiting for the air cleaner. I have found its easier to check for leaks during brake bleeding when its out of the way. Interior coming along - carpet will not be down until I can check for water leaks. Hand brake install (with portion of the old MJ foot brake at the rear). Fitting the belts and installing noise/thermal barrier. Had to pull the belts out of the housing and soak them overnight in laundry detergent. They stunk that bad.... Under bed arrangement. There is a lot less available landscape to attach things on a short bed... Same shot with light. Tank before first install attempt. The blocks are pressure treated 4x4 with rubberized coating. They are necessary for the height of the fuel sender from the tank. New tank straps. It is actually tie down straping used for mobile homes in high wind areas - sold at Lowes for ~ 14.00. Cut to 120 " and doubled over, then I welded the frame rail ends from the factory straps in between. When I'm ready to install them, I take a floor jack and hold the tank into position and measure the correct distance with a cloth tape, then cut and bend. Finished strap. Another Lowes find - rubber seal for garage door bottom works great for strap-to-tank insulation to prevent rubbing holes in the tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Akula69 Posted February 7, 2016 Author Share Posted February 7, 2016 Well - the first major setback. The gas tank will not fit blocked down due to drive shaft diameter. Front strap / tank clearance Back strap / tank clearance Another view of back strap clearance. The way I see it, the tank cannot be blocked down that far on a short bed because of the driveshaft angle. On Ryan's (my son) long bed we blocked it down the same distance (using the Dakota tank and XJ sender) without problems. I guess two extra feet does make a difference. So far I've thought of three options: 1) Smaller diameter driveshaft...but the length is a problem. At 50+ inches it would probably twist at RPM. 2) Fuel cell in bed, either integrated with a tool box or stand alone (like Alexia's). 3) Cut a 6" diameter hole in the bed and cover it with a dome made of 18G steel bead rolled to resemble the existing bed pattern. This would allow the tank to rise up into it's original position. Personally I'm leaning towards # 3. What do you guys think? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted February 7, 2016 Share Posted February 7, 2016 Option #1. Is that the fat rubber-sheathed 2WD drive shaft? If so, I'd replace it with a new 3" diameter shaft from Tom Wood or some another shop. I had one of those on my 2WD 91, over 60" long on my longbed, and it started vibrating a few years ago due to the rubber sheath material deteriorating. It couldn't be balanced. I replaced it with a new 3" from Tom Wood, and no more vibes. And no twisting even with the stroker either; it's stronger than the stock drive shaft. It's just a matter of time before the rubber goes anyhow Jake. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Akula69 Posted February 7, 2016 Author Share Posted February 7, 2016 Don't know if it's a rubber sheathed one, but did a little more detective work: Circumference is ~ 13", so 13/3.14 = 4.14 diameter (if my math is correct). In my rough measurement for length I came up with 52" from center of U-joint to center of U-joint. Tom Wood's Web page states this: Tube Diameter Max Driveshaft length 1.250" 35" 2.000" 45" 2.500" 50" 2.750" 55" 3.000" 60" 3.500" 70" So that would mean a shaft diameter of 2.75 to 3.0, si? In the comparison, 4.14 diameter drive shaft reduced to a 3.0 only gives 1.0 inches of clearance. Here are the shots looking towards the rear from the transmission: I'm thinking I'd need more then 1 inch...yes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted February 7, 2016 Share Posted February 7, 2016 Yep, you have a rubber shaft. :rotfl2: :rotfl2: :rotfl2: That don't sound right. A new 3" diameter shaft will only net an additional clearance of ~.5 inch on each side, so judging by your pics, it looks like you need more than that. Unless you can massage the tank somehow........ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
91Pioneer Posted February 8, 2016 Share Posted February 8, 2016 FYI new straps are only $34 http://amzn.to/1SXDYtw Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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