Brought home another one- 'Junior' - Now with Pics and Video

[Akula69]

FYI new straps are only $34 http://amzn.to/1SXDYtw

Correct, but when the tank needs longer then stock straps....you have to make your own.

[Akula69]

Yep, you have a rubber shaft.  :rotfl2: :rotfl2: :rotfl2:  That don't sound right.

 

A new 3" diameter shaft will only net an additional clearance of ~.5 inch on each side, so judging by your pics, it looks like you need more than that. Unless you can massage the tank somehow........

I'm going to call Tom Woods tomorrow, but from what I'm seeing, it may be a combination of raising the tank (through the bed) and a smaller driveshaft.

[Akula69]

Cut the bed yesterday and raised the tank into the hole. Now the driveshaft clearance (from the tank) is 3 inches by the differential and 1.5 ~ 2 inches in the front. I most likely get a new driveshaft anyway (however Tom Woods stated they would not make a stock shafts anymore because "the stock yokes are hard to come by and they don't make money off them..." ) probably from a local shop.

 

I will make a template for the sending unit cover and weld it up in 18g steel...probably an inverted square with 45 degree sloped sides. More later

 

[HOrnbrod]

(however Tom Woods stated they would not make a stock shafts anymore because "the stock yokes are hard to come by and they don't make money off them..." )

 

Huh? 27-spline yokes as used on the AW4, AX-15, etc. are used on everything, especially GM stuff, and are available everywhere. Tons of aftermarket yokes too in any snout length you need. There's no need to use a "stock" Jeep yoke.

 

Too bad you had to cut the bed hole Jake. Bet you hated to do that. But it does make it easy to change the pump out.    :yes:

[Akula69]

hornbrod, on 10 Feb 2016 - 11:36 AM, said:

 

Akula69, on 10 Feb 2016 - 11:13 AM, said:

(however Tom Woods stated they would not make a stock shafts anymore because "the stock yokes are hard to come by and they don't make money off them..." )

 

Huh? 27-spline yokes as used on the AW4, AX-15, etc. are used on everything, especially GM stuff, and are available everywhere. Tons of aftermarket yokes too in any snout length you need. There's no need to use a "stock" Jeep yoke.

 

Too bad you had to cut the bed hole Jake. Bet you hated to do that. But it does make it easy to change the pump out.    :yes:

 

Yeah...cutting the hole does suck. Should be barely noticeable when I get done with the cover. But its up closer to the bed front than what I originally expected. so if a in-bed tool box is in my future it will be well hidden!

 

The ease of access for the sender is also showing it's worth...tried to start it and no fuel pressure to the rail (even though the pump runs). I had replaced the in-tank filter socks...so out it comes to ensure I hooked everything up correctly...

[Akula69]

Update:

 

Almost all the work has been done to get him back on the road save for bleeding the brake system (had to get new soft lines for the front) and adapting the MJ tail lights to the XJ bulb plugs.

 

Unfortunately, we have redux II on the start.......just like with my son's conversion, Junior is not cooperating with the idea he actually has to earn his keep. Despite going through every step we went through with the other MJ, he will crank but stubbornly refuses to run. Currently getting ready to tow him to the shop and put an oscilloscope on his @$$ to find out why his timing is correct (in all aspects) but he still fires on the exhaust stroke. He is throwing no codes whatsoever, and before its said, this has been accomplished so far:

 

New MOPAR CKP

New MOPAR CMP

New Fuel sending unit

CMP aligned as per DRB tool

Correct timing chain position confirmed visually (2x)

All grounds checked, cleaned and verified

Harness continuity checked from PCM to harness plugs for CKP and CMP

Coil rail checked for good spark at all plugs

Compression checked at all cylinders

Fuel pressure confirmed at rail

ASD relay swapped and checked

 

The only weirdness he has been showing is the gas gauge shows empty (and the low gas light illuminates) when cranking. Other forums have had threads where the CKP can cause this error, and unplugging it resolves the problem (also proving the CKP is faulty). Unfortunately, unplugging the CKP does not solve the problem, so I believe its a faulty gauge.

 

Because it has been a consistent behavior despite all the efforts, just for grins and giggles I'm gonna set TDC on #1 to the exhaust stroke and see if it fires off. If the computer is determined to fire on the exhaust stroke when its set for the intake, shouldn't it work the other way around? :brows:

[Akula69]

OK - I'm a dumb aszzz  (Where's Cruiser when you need him to remind you your a dumb aszzz?)

 

I installed the pre-97 flex plate on the engine during the rebuild. Lesson learned: when everything else is right.....look for what you did wrong. However, I had my personal best 5 hours in pulling the engine, changing the plate and re-installing it. Electrical and fluids tonight and we'll see if it runs.

 

Further, the float on the gas gauge works when manually operated...so it seems to be hanging up inside the tank somehow...more later.

[Pete M]

any updates?