cody4359 Posted August 2, 2012 Share Posted August 2, 2012 mines is twisted from using as a recovery point while stuck in the snow and pulling from the side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dadinator Posted August 2, 2012 Share Posted August 2, 2012 Mine isn't straight either. But not side to side but up and down. My bumper is lower on the driver side than the passenger. My father-in-law had one of those jack/cranes in the back when he had the truck on the driver side. Picked up some too heavy stuff a couple of times and the frame is slightly tweaked. My son wrecked the truck twice too. So, it's not perfect. It just has personality. Most people wouldn't notice it. But I know... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rymanrph Posted August 2, 2012 Author Share Posted August 2, 2012 As of today, I have owned my Comanche longer than any of the 8 Jeeps I've owned - 956 days. It doesn't sound like much, but I've had eight Jeeps since I bought my first five years ago. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
platinum5.9 Posted August 3, 2012 Share Posted August 3, 2012 As of today, I have owned my Comanche longer than any of the 8 Jeeps I've owned - 956 days. It doesn't sound like much, but I've had eight Jeeps since I bought my first five years ago. Congrats....lets celebrate with some new pictures!!!! :brows: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rymanrph Posted August 4, 2012 Author Share Posted August 4, 2012 Well, its pretty much done I suppose. I'm pretty sure both drive shafts are too short now, but I think they'll be OK until I go offroad. It still needs an alignment and a couple other little things. My biggest problem is my AC compressor (clutch?) is clacking like crazy now. It happens whether the ac is on or not. I'll have to fix that because its incredibly annoying. Here are a couple pictures as of today: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RockinMJ Posted August 4, 2012 Share Posted August 4, 2012 Wow. You have done a outstanding job. My new screensaver. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Backdraft Posted August 4, 2012 Share Posted August 4, 2012 :thumbsup: Looks great bro! Good job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
500 MJ Posted August 4, 2012 Share Posted August 4, 2012 :drool: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rymanrph Posted August 4, 2012 Author Share Posted August 4, 2012 The one thing I noticed is the spacing of the rear wheels within the flares. I centered the flares when I was on the old 3" lift springs, now they are closer to the rear. The back end needs to come up just a bit, so if swap in some stock 4wd leafs or some longer shackles, it should bring them a little closer to center. I put about 35 miles on it today. It has some vibrations, but I can't tell if its because it needs an alignment or because of the drive shaft(s). We'll see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW86 Posted August 5, 2012 Share Posted August 5, 2012 looks good. i did notice the rear wheel spacing as well but if you lift the rear more then your going to have to lift the front to level it out. how much higher can you go up front? i forget what your at now. as far as the vibes, did you put in the rear pinion shims yet? also how much of your rear shaft on the slip end is out of the tcase. no quite sure but i think if its around an inch your fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rymanrph Posted August 5, 2012 Author Share Posted August 5, 2012 looks good. i did notice the rear wheel spacing as well but if you lift the rear more then your going to have to lift the front to level it out. how much higher can you go up front? i forget what your at now. as far as the vibes, did you put in the rear pinion shims yet? also how much of your rear shaft on the slip end is out of the tcase. no quite sure but i think if its around an inch your fine. The rear end right now is about 1.25" lower than the front. I actually like a rack to a truck; I think it looks right, so I'm not worried about it being taller than the front and if it ends up being too much, I've got the ACOS to make up as much room as I need. The rear shims are in and while its not 100% ideal, its close. I'm sitting maybe 1/2° below parallel (should be 2°, but 8° shims were the biggest I could find). If I end up doing the SYE and CV shaft, I should be able to get it exactly where I need it. My NP242 has a fixed shaft on the end, so the slip yoke doesn't slide into the case, but onto the shaft. There is engagement there, but not enough to be satisfied with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rymanrph Posted August 7, 2012 Author Share Posted August 7, 2012 Yesterday, I felt pretty stupid (actually, I still feel pretty stupid today). As I mentioned, I was hearing a terrible clacking sound coming from the AC compressor. I purchased a new compressor and accumulator and proceeded to install it yesterday (after paying someone to evacuate my system). The install went fine, but after starting the truck back up, the clacking was still there. It turns out that my compressor was fine; somehow my fan shroud had shifted slightly and the fan was contacting it :oops: . So I was a little embarrassed, but glad I could return the $260 worth of new equipment. I would only be out the cost of evacuating and charging the system right? Not so fast. As I was removing the new parts to reinstall the old parts, the tube coming from the evaporator that attaches to the accumulator decided to break off :headpop: . I was able to order a new one for about $70 shipped from Rock Auto which isn't that bad. I just don't look forward to removing the dash to replace it. I just got the long arms done and I was looking forward to just driving it for a while without having to work on it. I'm praying for cooler weather since I won't have AC the rest of the week. The lesson here is make sure you check all the easy simple solutions before jumping to something a lot more complicated. :doh: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dadinator Posted August 7, 2012 Share Posted August 7, 2012 TeeHee. Sorry, but that is funny. I've done stupid stuff like that before. We all have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rymanrph Posted August 9, 2012 Author Share Posted August 9, 2012 I got the truck aligned yesterday and they pretty much confirmed what I was afraid of. I really need a SYE and CV shaft. I have two options, the first being a full tail shaft replacement and shaft from Tom Woods for $500. I can also do a hack and tap for $100 plus the cost of the shaft. What do most people do, lengthen a front XJ shaft? The drive shaft shop I spoke with told me to stay away from the hack and tap because its just a temporary solution. I obviously don't want to spend more than I have to, but I don't want to spend money twice either. I'm not sure which direction to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abyx Posted August 9, 2012 Share Posted August 9, 2012 You shouldn't need a CV drive shaft and slip yoke eliminator... I'm running 7.5" of lift, a C8.25 and dry rotted 35s..I have zero vibration, stock drive shafts and a slip yoke in the back of the TC... Are you positive that it's not something else? Also, I do not have shims in my axle; I have the perches set the same as they are out of a cherokee. Without a double cardigan joint drive shaft, the pinion should be parallel with the TC, not pointed at it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rymanrph Posted August 10, 2012 Author Share Posted August 10, 2012 You shouldn't need a CV drive shaft and slip yoke eliminator... I'm running 7.5" of lift, a C8.25 and dry rotted 35s..I have zero vibration, stock drive shafts and a slip yoke in the back of the TC... Are you positive that it's not something else? Also, I do not have shims in my axle; I have the perches set the same as they are out of a cherokee. Without a double cardigan joint drive shaft, the pinion should be parallel with the TC, not pointed at it. I do have some vibes, but they could be for a couple reasons. The first is completely un-related to the drive line. My exhaust has always sat a little low (even with a new trans mount) and it rattles against the trans cross member. My other issue is that the drive shaft is really too short. There isn't much contact of splines between the output shaft and the slip yoke. Its possible that having a slightly longer drive shaft might solve my problem. I'm going to take some measurements this weekend and see if I can come up with a standard length in another vehicle that might suffice (lwb 4x4 shaft?) The reason for the shims is because I had a separate axle set up for the SOA. The shop that welded them on wasn't able to put it up under the truck to accurately measure the angle. Essentially, they just guessed and got it as close as they could. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rymanrph Posted August 11, 2012 Author Share Posted August 11, 2012 Here is what I'm battling with: The box is out and the dash is just laying loose. The new evaporator core come tomorrow, so hopefully I can get it all back in by myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abyx Posted August 11, 2012 Share Posted August 11, 2012 You shouldn't need a CV drive shaft and slip yoke eliminator... I'm running 7.5" of lift, a C8.25 and dry rotted 35s..I have zero vibration, stock drive shafts and a slip yoke in the back of the TC... Are you positive that it's not something else? Also, I do not have shims in my axle; I have the perches set the same as they are out of a cherokee. Without a double cardigan joint drive shaft, the pinion should be parallel with the TC, not pointed at it. I do have some vibes, but they could be for a couple reasons. The first is completely un-related to the drive line. My exhaust has always sat a little low (even with a new trans mount) and it rattles against the trans cross member. My other issue is that the drive shaft is really too short. There isn't much contact of splines between the output shaft and the slip yoke. Its possible that having a slightly longer drive shaft might solve my problem. I'm going to take some measurements this weekend and see if I can come up with a standard length in another vehicle that might suffice (lwb 4x4 shaft?) The reason for the shims is because I had a separate axle set up for the SOA. The shop that welded them on wasn't able to put it up under the truck to accurately measure the angle. Essentially, they just guessed and got it as close as they could. See if you can get a longer slip yoke. I had a Cherokee with an AW-4/242 in it..the slip yoke was about 1.5" shorter than the slip yoke that I got with an AX-15/231. I run the AX-15 one right now, again on 7.5" of lift in the rear...no problem. The NV231 TC came with about 6 or 7 different options; you might consider going to a JY and pulling slip yokes until you find one that's longer. I flex the crap out of mine, I have no issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dedaw Posted August 11, 2012 Share Posted August 11, 2012 Ok, so I'm going a little crazy with the pictures today, but that's because I can't do any real work. I wanted to see what the offset looked like on the new wheels, so I mounted two. Its still not lifted, but you can get the idea. And then a couple posed pics just for fun: What are your specs at this point? Love the way it looks. (I looked, but couldn't find a lift amount anywhere) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockdrummer93 Posted August 11, 2012 Share Posted August 11, 2012 My question is do you know how much lift you actually acquired. I'm going to do SOA on mine and 35s, but still not sure what size coils to order. I see people ordering coils from 5.5 to 6.5 when doing SOA, and I see you used a 4.5 coil with the spacers. And do you have to use 2WD leaf? mine has 4WD leafs, will that be more or less lift then a 2WD leaf? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rymanrph Posted August 11, 2012 Author Share Posted August 11, 2012 I have 2wd leafs but could really use the 4wd ones. They give a little more lift plus my leafs are pretty flat any way. I actually have a longer slip yoke somewhere. I swapped to the current one when I went from the ax-15 to the aw4. I just need to find it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockdrummer93 Posted August 11, 2012 Share Posted August 11, 2012 thanks. I guess I'll just use the 4wd leafs i have now and if I don't like it get a set of 2wd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rymanrph Posted August 11, 2012 Author Share Posted August 11, 2012 thanks. I guess I'll just use the 4wd leafs i have now and if I don't like it get a set of 2wd If you're going with 35s, I think you'll probably need the 4wd leafs. I'm going to try a set of shackles to make up some difference for me. If you decide you want the the 2wd leafs anyway, let me know and I'll trade with you. You're not that far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockdrummer93 Posted August 11, 2012 Share Posted August 11, 2012 thanks. I guess I'll just use the 4wd leafs i have now and if I don't like it get a set of 2wd If you're going with 35s, I think you'll probably need the 4wd leafs. I'm going to try a set of shackles to make up some difference for me. If you decide you want the the 2wd leafs anyway, let me know and I'll trade with you. You're not that far. I'll keep that in mind thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abyx Posted August 11, 2012 Share Posted August 11, 2012 I actually have a longer slip yoke somewhere. I swapped to the current one when I went from the ax-15 to the aw4. I just need to find it. The AW-4 is longer than the AX-15 as well, so if you swap for the longer slip yoke and go from there...you'd probably be better off. You might just save yourself 500$ on parts you shouldn't need. My question is do you know how much lift you actually acquired. I'm going to do SOA on mine and 35s, but still not sure what size coils to order. I see people ordering coils from 5.5 to 6.5 when doing SOA, and I see you used a 4.5 coil with the spacers. And do you have to use 2WD leaf? mine has 4WD leafs, will that be more or less lift then a 2WD leaf? I know you didn't ask me, but here's my set up for some reference, it sits with a 1" rake. 6.5" Rustys coils, RC drop brackets, stock control arms, 4wd leafs, C8.25 SOA and RC shackles(they're about the same length as the MJ ones.) I have 6.5 in the front and 7.5 in the rear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now