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HO Fuel Sending Unit


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Oh damnit, I didn't really need that 80 bucks anyways.

hey, id rather spend $80 and have it sit on a shelf in my basement for 5 years, then need one and find out you can't buy one! (like it has been)

 

Nah, I wouldn't buy a part just to stash it. My sender's had a rough life and I never really was happy with the very noisy Airtex time bomb in there anyway (and my fuel gauge has been wonky for a while too and it's gotten to where it's really bothering me)

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So after reading through this what I'm getting is this is just a straight plug and play for HO comanches and renix wires just need to be swapped? My gauge only tells me the important stuff now (when I'm almost empty) but if this is just a straight swap I'll throw down the money. I have a spare hanging out on a shelf but not sure if its working either. Rather put the work in for something guaranteed. How much of a pain is it to swap out the pumps? 

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So after reading through this what I'm getting is this is just a straight plug and play for HO comanches and renix wires just need to be swapped? My gauge only tells me the important stuff now (when I'm almost empty) but if this is just a straight swap I'll throw down the money. I have a spare hanging out on a shelf but not sure if its working either. Rather put the work in for something guaranteed. How much of a pain is it to swap out the pumps? 

took me about 30 minutes. I was not moving fast. I put both passenger tires on oil change ramps because I could not remember how much fuel was in there. I used a hammer and  a screwdriver. Because the strainer and float are pointing in the opposite direction it seemed to take a while to set it in a place to seal. It felt like I was hitting a ledge or something but, pretty easy repair. Might need some fuel line since these don't have the 90* fittings.

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Oh damnit, I didn't really need that 80 bucks anyways.

hey, id rather spend $80 and have it sit on a shelf in my basement for 5 years, then need one and find out you can't buy one! (like it has been)

 

Nah, I wouldn't buy a part just to stash it. My sender's had a rough life and I never really was happy with the very noisy Airtex time bomb in there anyway (and my fuel gauge has been wonky for a while too and it's gotten to where it's really bothering me)

 

 

I'm partial to hoarding... but for something that can single handedly leave a vehicle useless, keeping a hard to get, or possibly hard to get (depending how long these stay in production) part in your personal stock is never a bad idea

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Get a long bit of gas hose and hook it up to the fuel pump outlet before pulling the sending unit, or else pop the fuel line off at the filter. Stick the end into a gas can or another vehicle. Then pull the fuel pump relay and jumper across to get the pump going. Stop when gas stops flowing, or you run out of gas cans.

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So after reading through this what I'm getting is this is just a straight plug and play for HO comanches and renix wires just need to be swapped? My gauge only tells me the important stuff now (when I'm almost empty) but if this is just a straight swap I'll throw down the money. I have a spare hanging out on a shelf but not sure if its working either. Rather put the work in for something guaranteed. How much of a pain is it to swap out the pumps? 

took me about 30 minutes. I was not moving fast. I put both passenger tires on oil change ramps because I could not remember how much fuel was in there. I used a hammer and  a screwdriver. Because the strainer and float are pointing in the opposite direction it seemed to take a while to set it in a place to seal. It felt like I was hitting a ledge or something but, pretty easy repair. Might need some fuel line since these don't have the 90* fittings.

 

Gotcha. I've pulled the sending unit out but I wasn't sure from the posts if there was a way to separate the pump from the sending unit. I'll have to pick up some tubing to see if I can get it to work. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

IMPORTANT UPDATE

 

so i've begun leaking fairly heavily in recent weeks again. i have bought the delphi hp10148 fuel  sending unit, i happened to also have a left over HO-XJ FSU, and then of course my HO-MJ FSU that's been in the truck.

 

here is a couple side by side of all 3,  delphi, XJ, MJ

 

eVS1ohhl.jpg COXlGFSl.jpg 85HJSxCl.jpgY1TImvhl.jpg

 

as you can see, all 3 have fairly similar dimensions, you can also see the delphi is 99% identical to the XJ FSU... both of which sit about 2" higher then the MJ one

 

so after coming to the realization that the delphi "MJ" FSU is really just an XJ unit... i decided to put that back in its box for returnal. i moved my attention over to my existing XJ FSU. it still worked great, (i had a leaky tank on an my wifes old XJ and i pulled a used whole tank assembly from a low mileage jeep by buddy rolled over)  so i tidied that one up, painted it made sure the wiring was ok... went to attempt to install it and NO GO. mounting ring wouldnt sit flush.  tried for 15 minutes, NO GO.

 

now I'm not sure if my tank is factory or replacement,  but here is what i found when i took a picture of the inside of the tank...

 

xx1clCrl.jpg

 

now to my delight, it was spotless clean!  :thumbsup:  and has what looks like a baking pan (baffle?) in the center.  of which my MJ FSU sits nicely inside just to the inside of the right hand wall, with the float and strainer sitting inside facing the center of the "baking pan" .   this means the opposite orientation of the delphi/XJ FSU rests it ever so abruptly right ontop of this outer wall. never allowing the mounting ring to sit flush.  

 

now if you had persay a tank with no baffle (baking pan)  then the XJ unit would probably work great, albeit a little shorter.  or by possibly cutting the two locating tabs off of the FSU and rotating it counter clockwise some to clear the pan, it may also work, but this would also mean the pickup is even higher up and losing/wasting more fuel. 

 

so as of now my original MJ FSU is sitting in some evaporust, waiting to be cleaned and soldered 

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Yes mine is just a XJ unit. And it has a non removable original factory sticker saying Delphi 10148. So I know its the "right" one.

 

There is the possibility. Like I noted that if you had a replacement tank with no baffle that the Delphi/XJ unit would work. It would just be 2" higher then the MJ unit. That may be the case with the "confirmed" usage of it.

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Mine has the baffle. I know it took my awhile to get it to sit in there. Not sure how it fit finally but, it did and seals well. If you can get it in just right it does work. It took some wiggling and some adjusting but did work. Fuel gauge is accurate to. If you have the option to go original I would go original but, if like me you have no option it will work.

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If your sender unit is shot (and you want it working) send it to these guys. They can fix it.. www.tristarrradiator.com  Not cheap but quality work.

 

 

mine began leaking again, looks like the hole return nipple is cracked,   I actually looked them up last night, and planned on giving them a call.  their site said most repairs are between $75-150. which is honestly a decent price, given that a "new" unit for any one vehicle is normally in that range anyways.

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Mine has the baffle. I know it took my awhile to get it to sit in there. Not sure how it fit finally but, it did and seals well. If you can get it in just right it does work. It took some wiggling and some adjusting but did work. Fuel gauge is accurate to. If you have the option to go original I would go original but, if like me you have no option it will work.

 

 

is yours long or shortbed? mine is shortbed 18gal tank.   the Delphi/XJ pump sat dead center ontop of the baffle and would never seat on mine.

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Mine is an 88 with a shortbed with an HO swap. I did not lose any fuel usage either. I have to pull it again because the Delphi pump is annoyingly loud so I ran it out of fuel to see how many gallons I could put in. I put in exactly the same amount I did when I ran out with the mj sender I will look into it a little more and let you know how mine worked and why.

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