CW's MJ 2005 - 10

[driverdave]

very nice work, did I miss what you did about the rear leaf mounts? I have rot in the same place except my mount is now pretty much breaking off. How did you weld the frame?

 

Thank you.

Do you mean in the back where the shackles mount? Mine was fine back there, my front mounts where pretty well rusted thru though. I clad everything in steel sheet.

 

CW

 

Sheet metal for frame repair at the front leaf spring mount? thats what I asked not the shackles, my frame is rotted around the leaf spring mount closest to cab and there is no way I would consider sheet metal for frame repair in that spot, thanks for letting me know.

[CWLONGSHOT]

very nice work, did I miss what you did about the rear leaf mounts? I have rot in the same place except my mount is now pretty much breaking off. How did you weld the frame?

 

Thank you.

Do you mean in the back where the shackles mount? Mine was fine back there, my front mounts where pretty well rusted thru though. I clad everything in steel sheet.

 

CW

 

Sheet metal for frame repair at the front leaf spring mount? that's what I asked not the shackles, my frame is rotted around the leaf spring mount closest to cab and there is no way I would consider sheet metal for frame repair in that spot, thanks for letting me know.

 

 

Not sheet metal, sheet steel. The stock I used is just shy of 1/8" and about TWICE the thickness of the factory used to make the frame. My repaired frame is now stronger than it was in 1989.

 

 

[CWLONGSHOT]

FINEALLY getting back to the rear bumper side armour!!!!

 

 

We got SNOW here today... or I would be out there melting this on ceptin' writing about it!!

 

CW

[CWLONGSHOT]

This month I rejoined my local off road Club, http://www.JONFUND.com . I missed the comradery and events. Pop mentioned that some of the best times he remembers where camping and wheeling with that club. Next week end is one of my favorite events. We call it Oktoberfest or O'Fest for short. We wheel from mid morning to middle afternoon, then me up at a members home for a potluck dinner, bonfire and some really good times. Of coarse, lots of responsible beer drinking. SO< I needed to get some things finished up on the MJ to make it trail ready. I finished everything accept the CB antenna cable. I had to cut it back when the bed came off and havent spliced it back togather. Going to put an end on each end and a union in the middle.

 

I finished the welding of the bumper extentions/side protection.

 

 

Then found a good spot for the CO2 bottle mount. i used to mount it to the pass side of the bed behind the cab. but the roll bar is there now. I wanted it as central as possible to remove the necessacity to remove it to fill the tires after airing down. I have a 25' hose and a 15" coil so it will reach every corner mounted to the gate.

 

 

Then I added the shovel right next to it.

 

 

CW

[CWLONGSHOT]

I have to remove the thin chrome cover and fix my CB today but we had cold rain all day so all I got to do was straighten the garage and paint my diff cover...

 

 

 

 

 

I found a old PA loudspeaker and added it to the under hood accessories. :D

 

 

I also found the lower control are skid plates I bought way back and forgot about!!! Those will get welded in this week.

 

 

CW

[MiNi Beast]

is that a scratch on the diff cover already? :rotf:

[CWLONGSHOT]

is that a scratch on the diff cover already? :rotf:

 

OH MY GAWD NO!!!... :roll: :shake: LOL it kinda looks like it huh.. naw, its just a reflection from the 48" shop lites in the garage... :rotf: :rotf: :rotf:

 

CW

[MiNi Beast]

Oh yeah I see a little bling bling then with that shining coat. :rotfl2:

[CWLONGSHOT]

I welded in my LCA skids and built a new T-case shifter!!

 

Reading Darrens (Goblazers_6) post with the distributor gear shifter got me thinking on altering one of mine!! I took an old linkage set up I had and chopped off the hocky stick handle. Ground the end flat at an angle that allows it to be flat and parralell to interior floor. Then I welded on an appropraite sized bolt and ground the welds to look purdy.

 

 

Then I threaded on the knob...

 

 

Here is the LCA skids.

 

 

I cleaned up the contact points with a flap disc and clamped on the skids.

 

 

Then I burned them in...

 

 

And finally shot them with blk hammered paint.

 

 

CW

[MiNi Beast]

looks good tell me how those CA skids work possibly need to do it to mine.

[CWLONGSHOT]

looks good tell me how those CA skids work possibly need to do it to mine.

 

Well, the Brackets on the D30 are quite thin. Now add rocks and articulation to the equation and you end up with bent, twisted and ripped off brackets. The MJ has been fine, but the TJ hasn't been so lucky I have replaced most of it with HD stuff and rewelded that once.

 

SO< this is preventative. It's HD and should serve to stiffen up the mount as well as protect the front of the LCA from rock damage.

 

Tonight was HELL... The flipping T-Case linkage gave me absolute fits!!! While removing the origional it "popped" out form where I inteded it to slid out. At the adjustments... Three hours later, lots of cursing and frustration. I was FINEALY able to get the bushing back in and the rod slipped right in perfectly. I had to slit the carpet a bit, but its not noticeable. The shifter looks good and works perfectly.

 

I did find out that the XJ unit is different form the MJ unit. But a small BFH fixed that quick.

 

BEFORE:

 

 

AFTER:

 

 

Here is the differences:

 

 

CW

[MiNi Beast]

Now is that skull on backwards? Or well I guess it be facing up in 4wheel I guess, need a pic of it in 4 lo :brows:

[CWLONGSHOT]

Now is that skull on backwards? Or well I guess it be facing up in 4wheel I guess, need a pic of it in 4 lo :brows:

I need to see what way looks best.. I think your right tho.. seems like it should be facing the cab more then the dash...

 

CW

[CWLONGSHOT]

Well I had a good weekend with little projects on the MJ this weekend!!

 

I rebuilt my wiper linkage, rewired and upgraded my headlight wires for better light output and fixed my leaking rear slider!!

 

I also made it into a DIY write up for the board!!!

 

viewtopic.php?f=9&t=19315

 

 

 

 

 

Using this as a guide, http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoHeadlightLoom.htm I upgraded the wiring to my headlights today. I just came back in, all I can say is that they are WAY better!! I thought that mine where pretty good before, but WOW... IIRC, jeepcoM (Pat) also did a nice write-up on the subject. Thou I couldn't find it. :oops:

 

It took a couple hours, cause I wanted the wire tucked away and the install nice and clean. So out came all the front lites, grill and winch to gain enough access. I didn't do pictures as the write up is very thorough. Besides, its all exposure. Hard to "see" difference in pics alone. I used all fine stranded 14Ga wire, 2 new headlight plugs and 2 40amp relays. I didn't solder anything, but used marine grade crimp connectors with dielectric grease on all exposed wire connections.

 

I'm not sure the improvement will be as advantageous with std stock or halogen headlights. But with the H4's I installed a couple years back, there is a very worthwhile improvement.

 

Lastly, I resealed my rear slider... When I found the rear carpet COMPLETELY SOALKED!! :wall: :wall: Its all dried/sucked up as good as I can without pulling the carpet again. I don't know what was used as a sealer, (Its after market and only a couple years old.) but it was all cracked and split. It won't happen again!!

 

Next spring the interior is getting gutted. Really leaning towards a rubber floor and I hate the way my headliner came out as well...

 

CW

[ComancheKid45]

 

Next spring the interior is getting gutted. Really leaning towards a rubber floor and I hate the way my headliner came out as well...

 

CW

 

 

 

Hurculiner FTW

 

[CWLONGSHOT]

Lookie what momma got me for my birthday!!

 

 

Bed protection, here I come!!

 

bri

[dasbulliwagen]

Ive been meaning to tell you this since I first saw it. As pretty as your truck is, I think you need to shoot a little paint on those wiper arms! :thumbsup:

[CWLONGSHOT]

Ive been meaning to tell you this since I first saw it. As pretty as your truck is, I think you need to shoot a little paint on those wiper arms! :thumbsup:

 

LOL, I have.. TWICE!! Its just dosen't stay stuck!! LOL.. :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: Last time I cleaned them good and wipped them down with salvisol too!! :dunno: Any suggestions??

 

CW

[BCMJ87]

Happy Birthday CW..

 

I'm looking forward to see your bending idea's.

 

Build on.. BK

[CWLONGSHOT]

Happy Birthday CW..

 

I'm looking forward to see your bending idea's.

 

Build on.. BK

 

THANKS MAN!!!

 

I got a couple things done on the MJ in the past couple days...

 

I moved the antenna from the roll bar to the center of the swing-out.

 

 

Then I mounted the harbor Freight ahooga horn up under the radiator, behind the bumper.

 

 

Gonna wire it up on a relay, with at least 12GA wire. I found that with smaller wire it kinda whined instead of ahooga-ed. :D When I attached it directly to the batt, it sounded MUCH healthier!!!

 

Lastly, I screwed my claw to the dash board...

 

I stopped @ Radio Shack and got my wire and once home, installed the grounding strap.

 

 

Once everything was attached I tried it out. Got a responce right away from a guy about 5-6 miles out as the crow flies. MUCH better then it was before!!! Now this is a 102" mast so no SWR adjustments. BUT I had a nice meter and I cannot find it! :fs1: :headpop: :fs1: Gotta couple more places to check, but I sure hope its not lost!!

 

 

 

CW

[CWLONGSHOT]

I got a couple annoying problems fixed today...

 

That LED licence plate lite I put on a month or so back. The wires are so freakin fine. I cannot keep them in adequate contact to keep them working!!! Today I soldered them in! They will remain working now!!! :yes:

 

Then I routed the CB antenna wire. I zip tied it to the gate in about 4-5 spots. Leaving nice graceful arches @ every corner. Then I ran it along the bed rail with metal straps and screws, every 12". Over the top of the bed, between the cab and bed into the cab beneath the splash guards. I silicone up the hole in the cab and ran the wire up between the seats into the back of the CB. 20" was PERFECT!!!

 

 

My buddie bought me a skull hitch lite as a gag for my birthday last week. That got mounted and put on. Its got lites in the eyes with the marker lites and brakes too.

 

 

Then I finished the switch wiring on the Ahooga horn. I wanted it accessible but didn't want it with the other switches. I also didn't want it on a on/off switch. I picked up a momentary on switch @ Radio Shack and put that on the end of a 14" piece of 1/2" rubber fuel line. I attached the hose to the dash on the right side of the wheel with two more metal straps.

Its ridged enough so I can slap the button and the horn blows. I like it!!

 

 

CW

[CWLONGSHOT]

COOLING SYSTEM UPGRADE!! This took place over most of a week...

 

SUNDAY: My water pump is going south fast and I'll be swapping it this week.

 

Contemplating a HI-FLO pump, hi-flo T-stat and massaged higher flo water neck. BTW, I already have a 3 core radiator and a new heater core. I will also be upgrading the overflow bottle to a aluminum tank.

 

Definitely NO CHEAPIE/REBUILT pumps for me this time!!!

 

BTW, I ordered the Howe aluminum tank, Dorman overflow tank and Mopar hi-floaT-stat from Summit last nite. I should have it by Wednesday.

Today I'm heading to NAPA as you suggested to get/order the pump. I see a couple choices from them. First I wanted opinions on the high Flo models. NAXJA has mixed reviews, more said it wasn't worth the extra cost. I'll likely end up with a newly manufactured NAPA unit. I'm also getting new "Y's" (the heater disconnect valve) and hoses for the heater core.

 

Gonna try to get started today, if it warms up higher then the 21 degrees it is now!!! I figure I can at least get everything apart and ready for the install.

 

I am not a fan of running only or converting to electric. Altho I do have the factory A/C electric fan installed and on a manual switch in the cab. I use it on the trail or on freeway on long grades.

Don't get me wrong, it has has never overheated on me, but it does get to 220 on the factory gauge. (I suspect it as not being very accurate either)I changed out everything a couple years ago and it (the temps) where much improved. I installed a 180 Tstat, new, clutch, new heater core, new 3 core rad, all new hoses and rebuilt water pump.

The NAPA was closed today, so ordering/picking up the parts will have to wait till Monday. BUT, It warmed up enough so I was able to get everything dis-assembled and ready for the new parts to go in.

 

 

One casualty... my shroud. FREAKIN' THING IS ALWAYS I THE WAY!! I also found the idler, just to the right of the A/C idler is also noisy. Hopefully this is not a dealer part, but I fear it is. OH well, not a huge deal as its easy to swap at a later date if it doesn't come in i time.

 

I opened up the water neck with a air grinder in about ten minutes!

 

BEFORE:

 

 

AFTER:

 

 

 

Everything came out easily sans that shroud.

 

MONDAY: Got to NAPA tonight, A NEW pump in hand along with new real radiator cap, some 1/4" hose and couple new gaskets another bottle of indian head cement and a bottle of green juice.

 

Tomorrow I'll be out there buttoning it back up. Then its just a waiting game for the aluminum bottle, overflow bottle and hi-flo T-stat.

 

WEDNESDAY:

 

 

I got the water pump and the PS brackets back in tonight. I am still missing the T-Stat, pressure bottle and overflow tank so I cannot finish, but its moving along nicely!!!

It shouldn't take but a hour to finish this up and I'll be ready for Sunday!!

Poor me, guess I am driving the TJ a couple more days... I'm glad I still have the AT's on it!!! The thing drives like a sports car with the Lil 33's!!

THURSDAY: Parts just arrived and I have to leave for the meeting!! GRRR

 

I gotta get some fittings I forgot about anyhow...

 

here is some pics...

 

 

Tomorrow night.. in the cold.. I'll be out there installing this...

 

I also received the replacement bearings from EBay... five minutes and the old one was pressed out and the new one in!!

 

 

FRIDAY: I ran back to NAPA on the way home and picked up the hose barbs and hose I needed. A few minutes with some Teflon tape and I had the tank ready to install.

 

 

I had a couple big hose clamps and I grabbed a piece of 2" "C" channel. It worked perfectly to hold the tank at 90 degrees while being very firm.

 

 

A few more minutes routing the hose to the overflow tank and it was complete.

 

 

The overflow tank fit perfectly beside the air box after I moved the ballast resistor and vacuum fitting a bit toward the firewall.

 

 

The temprature is now running right at 160. The heat is a bit cooler, bit plenty warm.

 

 

One problem..... I got a bit of a leak at the water neck... SO the freaking thing comes apart again....

 

Saturday is my next available time.. hope its warm....

 

I did end up going back out there tonight... Threw in the heater and it was rite cozy!!

 

I decided to throw in a sealer as I noticed the radiator itself was leaking a bit. Just a small leak, but a leak just the same. My heat at the water neck was just a drip, but as the pressure built and the fan pushed it around, it looked bad.

 

Sealer seems to have worked at least slowed it to a tiny stain.

 

Also noticed that my math sux.... the factory gage goes from 100 to 260 with 210 straight up. (Bear with me here) that's 90 degrees from 100-210 so the mark I was calling 180 is really only 145. Now add 15 more for the 1/3 past the center mark and we get 160 degrees. That's 20 under the 180 that the stat is... seems the gage IS way off as its IS rock steady where it sits.

 

Also, my upper rad hose doesn't even get firm... OR overly hot!! SO, my guess is I have a air bubble. Squeezing the hose doesn't seem to move any fluids. Comparing the heater hose with the upper rad hose isn't close in temps. I ran it tonight for most of an hour idle and revving to 2000 and 3000 rpms and held there for a couple minutes multiple times.

 

Hopefully it will relieve itself as it cools tonight, I filled the overflo bottle to near full.

 

SATURDAY: When I got out to the truck this AM, the overflow was empty, (I 3/4 filled it last night when hot)so the system IS working.

 

 

I took it for a ride to get more Kerosene for the heater, it was fine, but never got above the revised 160 degrees.

I pulled the upper hose off while it was warm and it was indeed empty... There was a amount in the water neck on top of the T stat. I added fluid to the upper hose and it immediately came out of the water neck.. so the T stat is indeed open. then I removed the upper heater hose where it enters the pressure bottle and again filled or tried to add more fluid. I got a bit in, but not too much. I "burped" the upper rad hose at the same time and was able to add even a bit more. I also found a bad pos batter terninal..

 

 

SO its now a waiting game to see what gets sucked into the system, then refill and repeat. Only potential problem I cam see is if the new T stat is stuck open...

 

OK, Good to know Daniel!! Thanks, so its safe to assume that its working!!

I have given it about two hours to cool, time to go see what happened...

 

Just checked it out... nothing was "sucked" back into the block/radiator this time... I know its got room as the upper hose was still soft. SO, I jumped in for a cruse.. need fuel anyhow. Put about 25 miles on it and that freakin' hose is still not full... or hot...and the overflow bottle is full near the top. So some was pushed into it on the free way. The temp never moved more than the thickness of the needle. Maybe Juan is rite... I'm over thinking and stressing on nothing.. what do you think??

[neohic]

Neato idea on the thermostat housing... wish I would've thought of that while mine was apart. Good thinking on the pressure bottle too! Bet it was cheaper than a '92+ radiator with a cap.

 

Awesome truck!

[CWLONGSHOT]

Thanks Ben!!

 

It's cheaper by some, but lots easier!! the bottle was 50, fittings and hoses another 30 and the overflow tank was 10 more. So less then 100 bucks.

 

I took it on a wheeling trip today and it ran perfectly, nothing at all with the cooling system. Ran rock steady all day. Left home @ 06:30 and returned home about two hours ago. Put about 180 miles on the truck with almost 20 of that in the woods.

 

LOTS of ice out there!!! Much we stayed on top of, other places...not so much. No real obstacles here, just class 6 roads with some minor rock work and lots of water crossings. I found a couple rocks to flex on, but nothing to radical.

 

 

All pics on Comanche Club Image Hosting

 

USERNAME: brianjonfund

PASSWORD: jeeper

[xjrev10]

i just read threw your whole build thread.. makes me wish for summertime up here in Northern MN. My 2 Comanches are stored in the wintertime. It was interesting to see its trasformation threwout the couple YEARS this build thread has been going. Sweet man :banana: