Crash Posted May 24, 2015 Share Posted May 24, 2015 Are the wheel adapters hub centric? If you are willing to ship, how much for the wheel adapters. Need some for my MJ. Zip is 93444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shelbyluvv Posted May 24, 2015 Author Share Posted May 24, 2015 They are hub centric. They are no kidding two weeks old. The only thing missing is the lug nuts to bolt them on the hubs. I used them on my new spacers. I couldn't go less than $100 shipped for them. I paid $130 for them from Rough Country a few weeks ago. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shelbyluvv Posted May 24, 2015 Author Share Posted May 24, 2015 I bought a hitch years ago off a buddy of mine. I was told it was for a LWB but it went right on my SWB truck. Even the holes for the tail pipe hanger were in the right spot. I need to find a bumper now to fill in the open hole in the back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shelbyluvv Posted May 24, 2015 Author Share Posted May 24, 2015 Much better! This is the factory chrome bumper off my 86 painted black. I had to use my NOS bumper brackets to put it on. They are very different! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shelbyluvv Posted June 11, 2015 Author Share Posted June 11, 2015 Today in the wonderful world of Onyx the check engine light popped on when I started her. Seems the TPS went bad. Because you can never have a simple problem the horn won't shut off. I replaced the TPS and reset the code. For the horn I pulled the relay. The weird part is if I plug the horn relay in the engine runs rough for a second. I'll pull the fuse panel out of the passenger footwell and check it for wetness and corrosion. It rained like hell here last night so I think something got wet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shelbyluvv Posted October 18, 2015 Author Share Posted October 18, 2015 We made a trip to Bama to get her a new hat yesterday. The truck did great all day long. we put over 400 miles on it and she did it without a single hiccup. I was so excited, the wife... Not so much! up In all honesty she was fine. We don't get many weekends together and we got to spend all day together yesterday. Today I picked up $8 worth of cheap Wally World flat black paint and painted the shell to match the truck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Comanche County Posted November 9, 2015 Share Posted November 9, 2015 Awe man, that shell is awesome! I've been wanting one for a long time! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87-98xmj Posted January 20, 2016 Share Posted January 20, 2016 Hey I've read over this post a few times but i don't recall if you've mentioned if you put carpet in and if you did what vehicle did you get carpet from? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shelbyluvv Posted January 20, 2016 Author Share Posted January 20, 2016 I cut the XJ carpet and put it in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbaird1993 Posted February 14, 2016 Share Posted February 14, 2016 I love your truck!!! I wish I could see the shell though. It appears the link is dead. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shelbyluvv Posted February 15, 2016 Author Share Posted February 15, 2016 Thank you. She is a great running daily driver. I am slowly getting all the stuff to turn it into a offroad rig. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shelbyluvv Posted February 28, 2016 Author Share Posted February 28, 2016 I got orders back to 29 Palms California. Unlike the last time that happened, I will be taking her with me. I know good and well that I will end up wheeling her once we're settled. With this in mind I set out to turn Onyx into a nice wheeler/driver. The plan is... Two more inches of long arm lift 35" tires 4:88 gears and lockers Napier's flares Suspension seats and harnesses Interior cage Krustyballer sliders and bumpers As of yesterday I have the rear bumper installed. I am waiting for my nutserts to come in to put the sliders on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted February 28, 2016 Share Posted February 28, 2016 As of yesterday I have the rear bumper installed. I am waiting for my nutserts to come in to put the sliders on. I was going to ask how you were going to mount the sliders to the frame rail. I would definitely use the nutserts too over self-tappers. What size are you using? I don't have the install tool for nutserts that large assuming they are 1/2" or so.......... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shelbyluvv Posted February 28, 2016 Author Share Posted February 28, 2016 I went with 3/8-16. They really don't hold that much weight. The pinch clamps hold all the weight. If I come down on them the rocker will spread the load across it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shelbyluvv Posted February 28, 2016 Author Share Posted February 28, 2016 Spent most of the day cleaning, priming and painting my sliders. I used 4 cans of Rust-oleum dark primer. And 4 cans of Rust-oleum Textured. After the 3rd coat of primer. The results are well worth the effort. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strokermjcomanche Posted February 29, 2016 Share Posted February 29, 2016 Those look awesome Bo !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shelbyluvv Posted March 4, 2016 Author Share Posted March 4, 2016 I got my nutserts and bolts in. I had some spare time so I installed the sliders. I ordered 3/8-16 nutserts and 3/8-16 2" grade 5 bolts. I could of went with grade 8 but I thought that was overkill to hold sliders on. I found the bolts and nutserts on EBay. It seems that EBay has the best deal on them. Make sure you check where they are shipping from. search around and find the ones shipping in the US. the China ones take way to long to get in. Mine took 3 days to get to me. On with the show! First you are going to need a 17/32" drill bit or a good Unibit. I had both. Mount the slider and get it level. Adjust the pinch clamps to hold it in place and mark the holes to be drilled. Remove the slider and get to drilling. I will warn you now, the front of the "frame" is super thick! It is doubled sheet metal and will take some time to drill through. Take your time here. Drill the holes until the nutsert has a snug fit. In the pic below you will notice that the leaf spring hanger is in the way of the hole. You will need to trim the raised area so the star washer will fit flush on the frame and the nutsert. a Dremel or a grinder make quick work of it. Here is the DIY nutsert installation tool. You will need a 2.5" long 3/8-16 grade 8 bolt 3/8 star lock washer 3/8 grade 8 flat washer 3/8-16 grade 8 nut <get at least 8 of them> a 6" piece of flat metal with a 3/8 hole drilled in the end of it Assemble the bolt, nut and flat washer like this, then slide the flat stock and lock washer on. Finally screw the nutsert on making sure at least 3 threads stick out the bottom of it. Place nutsert and tool in the hole and wedge the flat stock against the frame. Put a 9/16 socket on a breaker bar and put it on the bolt. Use a 9/16 wrench on the nut. Hold the breaker bar and make sure it doesn't move while tighten the nut with the wrench. A long quality wrench here make a world of difference. Tighten the nut until you can't tighten it any more. You should have at least 5 threads showing between the nut and the bolt head. Remove the tool and use the bolt, nut and a couple flat washers to crush it some more. I used a 18" crescent wrench and 3 flat washers and tightened them until I couldn't get them any tighter. Next I drilled out the mounting holes in the sliders out to 7/16 to help line them up easier. If you are really good this step isn't needed but I highly suggest you do it. Sit back, drink a beer and marvel at your handy work! The sliders will look like the front sticks out more than the back. Remember the MJ tapers in the front. If you look from the front tire to the back they are dead on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted March 4, 2016 Share Posted March 4, 2016 I use the same "tool" to install the smaller nutserts; good to see that the same method will also work for the larger 3/8" nutserts. Bo, is there any way to make them tuck up higher and closer to the rocker? I'd like to install them with just about a 1/4" gap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shelbyluvv Posted March 4, 2016 Author Share Posted March 4, 2016 With this design there is no way to get them tighter. The pinch clamps are flush against the rocker. Brandon can make them tuck tighter but he would have to redesign the pinch seam mounting. I'm sure he already has a plan in mind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krustyballer16 Posted March 4, 2016 Share Posted March 4, 2016 With how these clamps are, you adjust the set screw from the outside. That is why the sliders sit down so low. The clamp is "raised" 11/16 so you can get an Allen wrench in there to adjust the set screw. Mates sliders tuck up tighter than this because there is no 11/16 overhang of the clamp. So you can't adjust the set screw from the outside once it's up there... I'll look into it but I think this is the easiest way to do it for installation. And thank you Bo for the "instructions" Basics the same thing if anyone plans to use self threading bolts. They look awesome on your truck. And so far, yours are the only 2x4 set I've sold... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted March 4, 2016 Share Posted March 4, 2016 With how these clamps are, you adjust the set screw from the outside. That is why the sliders sit down so low. The clamp is "raised" 11/16 so you can get an Allen wrench in there to adjust the set screw. Mates sliders tuck up tighter than this because there is no 11/16 overhang of the clamp. So you can't adjust the set screw from the outside once it's up there... I'll look into it but I think this is the easiest way to do it for installation. Is there a reason why the setscrews have to be adjusted from the outside? Why not put the setscrews on the inside of the pinch rail clamp with the setscrew drilled and threaded on an angle so they can tuck up closer to the rocker so the clamp doesn't have to be "raised"? W/o seeing the pinch rail clamps in person it's hard to visualize, but they would look so much better tucked up close to the lower rocker. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krustyballer16 Posted March 4, 2016 Share Posted March 4, 2016 ill try to gather some pictures this weekend. the set screw is only adjustable from the outside so when you put your slider up in position you can set that travel from the outside before you tighten the bolt on the "inside" under the body so that it clamps. if the set screw is adjusted from the inside you have to drop the slider, take the bolt out, adjust the set screw, put slider back up. http://www.nates4x4.com/Jeep_Cherokee_Rocker_Guards_p/xj_guards.htm this is how nates are. and sit, I'm guessing, 11/16" closer to the body. if every jeep was exactly the same and the pinch seam was exactly the same i could measure and figure it out and set the set screw where it was perfectly set and tack it in place so you wouldnt even have to worry about it. just throw em up there and tighten the bolt... if you still need a visual (I'm not very good at explaining) i can throw a slider up on a truck over the weekend and try to show the process of both ways. if i can figure it all out ill raise the slider on the rest of the sets i build these are the only pictures i have so far on the clamps.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted March 4, 2016 Share Posted March 4, 2016 Okay, understand it now now - thanks for the pics. Had not seen the Nates XJ slider pics before, and I assume their MJ sliders are the same. Instead of welding pinch rail C-clamps to the slider bar, maybe they could be separate with mounting tab wings that the installer could drill and tap the slider rail and set the rail as high as possible. Once set, then mark and mount the frame plates. Just a thought......... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Incommando Posted March 4, 2016 Share Posted March 4, 2016 What about drilling straight through the frame and running bolts all of the way through and bolting them on the inside with fender washers or reinforcing plates? With or without sleeving the hole ( I hate nutzerts :) ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krustyballer16 Posted March 4, 2016 Share Posted March 4, 2016 That sounds like a lot of work. Look for some "3/8 self threading bolts" .That's what I would use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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