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lug nut removal idea


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Possibility a set of These.

 

If the lug nut is exposed, not recessed in the rim, I would just take a good sharp cold chisel to it, along it's length, striking in a counter-clock wise direction, and it will either drive the lug loose, or split the lug enough to come loose.

 

Oh......and when you put it back on.......yea......Anti-cease.

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OKay, so i have lug nut that is stripped completely, as in no corners what so ever. i tried welding a nut to it and welding a socket tp it, but the welds just broke? how would i go about gettin this off?

 

If the weld is done with enough penetration :brows: It will hold. I have had this problem before and welded a second lugnut on using a 220v welder set at 175 amps. Both nuts were glowing after I welded them together. The key is the weld quailty. :cheers:

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OKay, so i have lug nut that is stripped completely, as in no corners what so ever. i tried welding a nut to it and welding a socket tp it, but the welds just broke? how would i go about gettin this off?

 

If the weld is done with enough penetration :brows: It will hold. I have had this problem before and welded a second lugnut on using a 220v welder set at 175 amps. Both nuts were glowing after I welded them together. The key is the weld quailty. :cheers:

 

Maybe he didn't remove that stupid aluminum cover beforehand? I could see why trying to weld steel to steel with that in the way would cause a problem.

 

When I had that problem I heated the lugnut up a bit and used those bolt-outs like Wildman put up.

 

As for putting it back on, go out and get one piece lugnuts. Stock Jeep ones are just....dumb.

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Over the 21 year life of the truck, half my lug nuts have become one piece. As in the cover has come off. Still fit a socket perfectly, though. Just 1 size smaller than on the ones that do still have the cover.

 

I have *never* in my life seen a lug nut (the actual nut, not the cover over the nut) get stripped by the correct size wrench/socket. I have -this was on my Suburban- bent and twisted a number of tools getting the lug nuts off to rotate my tires after the tire shop had torqued them to max capacity with a 1000 ft/lb air impact ratchet. They are only supposed to be tightened to 150 ft/lbs. I found out they had snapped (and replaced) one of the studs without telling me about that. There is no way to press out the studs with the front hub on the car, which means they have had to take it off. No wonder it took them 3 hours to mount 4 tires...

 

In the end I got them loose by my 190 pounds jumping on the end of a 6 foot pipe on a breaker bar. Multiple jumps to get each loose. After that I had a little talk to the manager, and after I threatened to report them to the local BBB, of which they were a member, they replaced all studs in case they had stretched them.

 

Never go back to that place.

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mvusse, this is why I NEVER take a vehicle to a tire shop. I take the rims, in the back of the MJ, and just drop the rims by the back door. I use a torque wrench each and every time I change or rotate my tires. It's not just stretching the studs -- although that's a problem, too. If they lugs aren't properly torquesd, in the correct sequence and run up in increments, the front rotors can be warped. Once they are warped, they will never get UNwarped.

 

A fringe "benefit" of never allowing an air gun on my lug nuts is that the cheesy stainless caps last forever.

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yep i took the aluminum cover off, and my weldre probably won't have enough guts to get good enough penetration. i had a pretty good weld on it, but i don't think it got enough into the lug nut. ive already tried ponding a saocket on and hitting it with the impact. i think I'm gonna have to get the cuttoff wheel out and hope i don't catch any threads on the stud.

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mvusse, this is why I NEVER take a vehicle to a tire shop. I take the rims, in the back of the MJ, and just drop the rims by the back door. I use a torque wrench each and every time I change or rotate my tires. It's not just stretching the studs -- although that's a problem, too. If they lugs aren't properly torquesd, in the correct sequence and run up in increments, the front rotors can be warped. Once they are warped, they will never get UNwarped.

 

A fringe "benefit" of never allowing an air gun on my lug nuts is that the cheesy stainless caps last forever.

Never trust an air gun alone to tighten your lugs. I still do it the slow old fashioned way. With a 1/2" drive socket and a breaker bar. Seen a tire or two fall off from just using an air gun.

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I hate the stock lug-nuts. Maybe they hold together for some people, but they really don't whenever I've seen them. I always remove the caps before attempting to pull them. Usually it doesn't end well and I wind up with at least one that needs either to have a socket sacrificed, or to be removed with the torch. Actually, a little oxy-mapp setup (you an get them for about $30) does wonders if they're incredibly seized on - that is before you strip them off. Which I've done multiple times with the correct sized socket.

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i hammer on a cheap craftsman socket to get them off then a air chisel to get it out of the socket :brows:

 

i hate stock lugs, yeah a torque wrench is better, but screw that time is money :chillin:

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i hammer on a cheap craftsman socket to get them off then a air chisel to get it out of the socket :brows:

 

i hate stock lugs, yeah a torque wrench is better, but screw that time is money :chillin:

 

Not when you have to constantly replace lugnuts.

 

I use a long handle 1/2 drive flexhead ratchet for lug nuts. Almost as long as a breaker bar, and once it's loose you can bend the handle back and just spin it. I don't use an actual torque wrench to get them on, but I do the star pattern and torque them down in 3 or 4 incriments.

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17mm socket (or what ever is smaller than what you have), a pull bar, and a B.F.H. and she will be off like a prom dress! (I use to know some boys that stole wheels and they use this trick on the locking lug nuts.) :cheers:

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Last resort, or other crazy things I've done; Dremel and Cut-off Wheels, or grind down to the threads and use a sharp chisel to split the nut or seperate it from the rest of the threads. Then you should be able to get the nut off the stud. While a basin wrench should do the trick and a really good welded on nut should also do the trick, the fact is that what seems simple is sometimes just impossible. Sometimes just grinding the blasted nut down is fastest and easiest way to remove a really rusted on bolt. If your really careful you can usually not harm the threads too much. If you wreck the stud or think your likely to wreck the stud then just take a cut-off wheel and split the nut and use a chisel to get the nut off and then drive the stud out and replace it. :cry:

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Since we are talking about stuck lugs, I thought I would toss this out there.. this is one on my Parts XJ... it was completly rounded whenI started.. I tried to hammer a socket onto it and Use my Air Hammer... didn't budge... I split a Craftsman Socket all the way down the side (which I probably shouldn't have been using)... I got pissed and pulled out the Air Chisel... Don't think I helped matters at all... BTW, I'm not at all worried about the stud, I just want the wheels off with minimal damage.....

 

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Tried heating it up, then airchiseling in the direction of looseness?

 

I have a little 'el cheapo oxy/mapp setup that can get most bolts/nuts glowing cherry in 30 seconds or so. Cost about $30 and takes the bernz-o-matic bottles. Generally if you get the nut glowing, it will have expanded enough that is is loose, and it'll break the rust bonding free at the same time.

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