brigarpeon

You can pull the driveshafts from the transfer case and wire them up. Then pop a tierod to straighten the wheels if worse comes to worse.

That's great, it starts with an earthquake, birds and snakes, an aeroplane - Lenny Burnside is not afraid. Eye of a hurricane, listen to yourself churn - world serves its own needs, don't misserve your own needs. Feed it up a knock, speed, grunt no, strength no. Ladder structure clatter with fear of height, down height. Wire in a fire, represent the seven games in a government for hire and a combat site. Left her, wasn't coming in a hurry with the furies breathing down your neck. Team by team reporters baffled, trump, tethered crop. Look at that low plane! Fine then. Uh oh, overflow, population, common group, but it'll do. Save yourself, serve yourself. World serves its own needs, listen to your heart bleed. Tell me with the rapture and the reverent in the right - right. You vitriolic, patriotic, slam, fight, bright light, feeling pretty psyched. It's the end of the world as we know it. It's the end of the world as we know it. It's the end of the world as we know it and I feel fine. :jump: Six o'clock - TV hour. Don't get caught in foreign tower. Slash and burn, return, listen to yourself churn. Lock him in uniform and book burning, blood letting. Every motive escalate. Automotive incinerate. Light a candle, light a motive. Step down, step down. Watch a heel crush, crush. Uh oh, this means no fear - cavalier. Renegade and steer clear! A tournament, a tournament, a tournament of lies. Offer me solutions, offer me alternatives and I decline. It's the end of the world as we know it. It's the end of the world as we know it. It's the end of the world as we know it and I feel fine. :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: The other night I tripped a nice continental drift divide. Mount St. Edelite. Leonard Bernstein. Leonid Breshnev, Lenny Bruce and Lester Bangs. Birthday party, cheesecake, jelly bean, boom! You symbiotic, patriotic, slam, but neck, right? Right. It's the end of the world as we know it. It's the end of the world as we know it. It's the end of the world as we know it and I feel fine...fine...

Read my post above again, I explained how it is checked.

So my pressure's actually not off too bad? I had read psi was supposed to be 14-15 so figured 10 was way too low. I was also suspecting a bad injector ... at idle, the injector basically drips, drips, onto the plate, but when I apply the throttle I can't see any spray ... but I just thought that was a symptom of low fuel pressure. How do I test the injector? thanks for the tips & info. Service manuals usally call out 14.5 psi but they usually don't require constant adjustment. When they do it's more like you are down on power or running out of fuel. Sorry I called this ICA above IDLE SPEED ACTUATOR (ISA) The ISA motor, located on the throttle body, is an electrically-driven actuator that changes the throttle stop angle by acting as a movable idle stop. The ECU commands the ISA to control engine idle speed and maintain a smooth idle during sudden engine deceleration. It does this by providing the appropriate voltage outputs to produce the idle speed or throttle stop angle required for particular engine operating condition. There is no idle speed adjustment. For cold engine starting, the throttle is held open for a longer period to provide adequate engine warm-up prior to normal operation. When starting a hot engine, the throttle is open for shorter time. Under normal engine operating conditions, engine idle is maintained at a pre-programmed RPM, which may vary slightly due to engine operating conditions. Under certain engine deceleration conditions, the throttle is held slightly open. ISA motor acts as movable idle stop to change throttle stop angle. Both engine idle speed and deceleration throttle stop angle are set by ISA. ECU controls ISA motor by providing appropriate voltage outputs to produce idle speed or throttle stop angle required for engine operating condition. IDLE SPEED ACTUATOR (ISA) MOTOR 1) Adjust ISA motor plunger to establish initial position of plunger only if motor has been removed or replaced. Remove air filter elbow and start engine. Run engine until engine reaches normal operating temperature. Turn A/C off (if equipped). 2) Connect tachometer leads to diagnostic connector D1, attaching negative lead to terminal D1-3 and positive lead to terminal D1-1. See Fig. 4. Turn ignition off. ISA motor plunger should move to fully extended position. 3) When ISA motor plunger is fully extended, disconnect ISA motor wiring connector and start engine. Engine speed should be 3300-3700 RPM. If incorrect, turn hex head screw at end of plunger to provide engine speed of 3500 RPM. 4) Fully retract ISA motor by holding closed throttle (idle) switch plunger inward as throttle is opened. Closed throttle switch plunger should not touch throttle lever in closed position. If contact is made, check linkage and/or cable for binding or damage. Repair as necessary. 5) Connect ISA motor wiring harness connector and turn ignition off for 10 seconds. ISA motor should move to fully extended position. Start engine. Engine speed should be 3500 RPM for short period of time and then decrease to normal idle speed. 6) Turn ignition off. Disconnect tachometer. After final adjustment of ISA motor, use thread penetrating sealant (Loctite 290) on adjustment screw to prevent movement and maintain adjustment. To test the injector place a test light across the injector leads and crank the starter. The light should flash brightly, if it flashes dimly then disconnect the harness and check the resistance of the injector if less than 10 ohms replace the injector. If above 10 ohms the problem is most likely in the harness, find and repair. Although, Dripping from the injector with the engine off is a pretty good indicator that the injector is shot.

I was wondering about that a couple a times. I see they(spam bots) are joining as new members but they never get to post. All in good fun Pete sometimes I'm tempted to post across the forum too.

Who could still be a Steeler fan after what the Oilers did to 'em Sunday :rotfl2: :cheers:

I think you just wanted to see your ID on all the forum sections much like that purple fruit loop.... Mini Beast

9-14 psi is the fuel pressure spec for a for a 2.5 Throttle Body, your right in there where you are supposed to be. Ditto on what Pete said about the grounds. The terminals may also be corroded internally. Did you check the IAC? Ya might wanna check the fuel pump relay on the passenger fenderwell too. These trucks are much like a Ford Ranger at the Fuel Pump/ Latch Key system.

Sony CYBERSHOT DP7200. Around $179.00 at Walmart. 7.2 pixel resolution, autofocus, AA battery powered, camera card. You can spend alittle more for a battery charge pack model, I would also reccomend buying a bigger memory card like 2 Gig, I believe the one that comes with is only 56 meg, about 16 pictures.

I'm pretty sure it doesnt have a steering stabilizer on, so maybe thats it... Did 2wd's have that? Mine has one. There 's a bracket on the top of the passenger side axle tube for the body and a hole in the center of the steering link for the rod stud. I had to replace mine with a heavier duty unit than stock.

I believe the one you are mentioning is the guage sensor. I have seen the Coolant Temperature Sensor in 2 locations; the location on the left side of the block is direectly under the intake/exhaust manifold, the other location is in the Thermostat housing. If you have a standard Thermostat housing then it's in the water jacket on the left side under the intake. This one is often affected by exhaust heat embrittlement, the wire insulation melts allowing it to short or build up corrosion throwing the resistance out of whack. A simple Test. This time of the year on a cold engine you should read 7,000 ohms with the CTS unplugged. Plug it back in and start the engine and bring it up to normal operating temperature. Unplug it again and it should read 1,000 ohms with the engine warm. A little variation is OK but not more than 5% or the ECU reading will be out of adjustment. Replace the CTS if the resistance is not in the above range.

Have you checked the Steering Stabilizer? The Stabilizer helps to control the willingness of the truck to hunt and wander on the highway. To remove some of the looseness in the steering you will need to tighten the steering box a bit. There is a hex bolt on the side with a stud sticking through it that has a screwdriver slot in the end. Loosen the hex bolt and turn the stud with a screwdriver to the right to tighten it up. Only go 1/4 to 1/2 turn at a time, it pretty sensitive. To check the balljoints, raise one side of the truck til the tire is just off the ground. Place a crow bar under the tire at the 6:00 position and raise the crow bar you should be able to easily detect any slop in the ball joints.

Could also be affected by the CTS. MAT and CTS work in parallel. COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR (CTS) The coolant temperature sensor is installed in the engine water jacket on the left side of the engine. It provides input voltage to the ECU. As coolant temperatures vary, the Coolant Temperature Sensor resistance changes, resulting in a different input voltage to the ECU. The ECU calculates this information and adjusts the following: * Adjust fuel injector pulse width. Colder coolanttemperatures will result in longer injector pulse width and richer air-fuel mixtures. * Compensate for fuel condensation in the intake manifold. * Control engine warm-up idle speed. * Increase ignition advance when the coolant is cold. * Energize the EGR valve solenoid, thus preventing the flow of vaccum to the EGR valve. MANIFOLD AIR TEMPERATURE (MAT) SENSOR The Manifold Air Temperature (MAT) sensor is installed in the intake manifold with the sensor element extending into the air-fuel stream. The MAT sensor provides an input voltage to the ECU. As the temperature of the air-fuel stream in the manifold varies, resistance changes, resulting in a different input voltage to the ECU. Test Manifold Air Temperature (MAT) Sensor 1) Disconnect the electrical connector from the sensor. Using a high impedance, digital volt/ohmmeter, measure the resistance of the sensor. If measured resistance is not as specified, replace sensor. See the CTS & MAT SENSOR TEMPERATURE-TO-RESISTANCE VALUE table. 2) Test electrical harness resistance of both sensors by testing between ECU harness connector "D-3" and sensor connector. Also test between sensor connector and ECU harness connector "C-10" ("C-8" on MAT sensor). Repair wire if open circuit is detected. Repair MAT sensor wiring harness if resistance is greater than one ohm. CTS & MAT SENSOR TEMPERATURE-TO-RESISTANCE VALUE F © Ohms 212 (100) .................................. 185 160 (71) ................................... 450 100 (38) .................................. 1600 70 (21) ................................... 3400 40 (4) .................................... 7500 20 (-7) ................................. 13,500 0 (-18) ................................. 25,000 -40 (-40) .............................. 100,700 Just in case ya wanna know: MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE (MAP) SENSOR The MAP sensor reacts to absolute pressure in the intake manifold and provides an input signal to the ECU. As the engine load changes, manifold pressure varies, which causes the MAP sensor resistance to change, resulting in a different input voltage to the ECU. The input voltage level supplies the ECU with information relating to ambient barometric pressure during engine start-up or regarding engine load while the engine is running. The ECU calculates this information and adjusts the air-fuel mixture accordingly. The MAP sensor is mounted under the hood on the firewall and is connected to the throttle body with a vacuum hose.

IMHO: If the gasket has a Blue coloration to the substrate material it is a good quality gasket requires no additional sealer. If the gasket is the general generic all pressed cork w/ a steel insert then lightly coat both sides with this http://www.midwayautosupply.com/pc-1421 ... 20539.aspx

Straight Muratic Acid, then rinse with plenty of water. Muratic Acid can be bought at Walmart and is 100% water soluable. What's the difference between a Dwarf and a Midget?

As you've stated one is the reverse light switch. The other is the Shift Light switch that activates the dash light to prompt a gear change.

I've had good luck with Wild Country AT's. These are a common off brand here in the NE. Tread like a BFG All Terrian and run around $100 new in 33/12.50/15. Local classifieds usually have something in the $150 - 200 range w/ at least 85% tread.

:grrrr: :typing: :headpop: :mad:

Replace that fuel filter. Sometimes they will accumulate crud water etc... that sloshes around when you hit bumps. This will temporarily interupt fuel flow and drop the pressure. As you crank it you are forcing the fuel under pressure from the tank to make a new path when it does it will start. Water can also get into the fuel filter, when picked up it will pack the rail, until the injectors get fresh fuel it will not start. 2nd thing I do is check the harness coil plugs on the firewall and make sure they are fully snapped into place, corrosion free and packed with dielectric grease.

Chico-man, below is a pic of the back of the temp gauge with an arrow pointing toward the meter movement calibration resistor. Voltage drop across this resistor is what determines meter deflection. Unsolder one side of this resistor and accurately measure it's resistance. Should be about 80 ohms IIRC. Then substitute other resistors in about 5 ohms higher increments until your gauge reads just a bit higher than your laser thermometer reading at the sensor. Of course this is just a bandaid; your real problem is the wiring between the sensor and the gauge. Can you run a clean new wire from the sensor directly to the gauge input (pin A1 on connector A)? I'd try this first. Image Not Found Ya wouldn't suppose that the slotted, white cover post is also the guage needle adjustment? I don't know but I have seen gas guages that work the same way to in effect either zero it at empty or full depending how it works up or down. I find it alittle hard to believe that 3 temp guages all had bad resistors but hey crap happens.

http://www.fastenal.com/web/products.ex ... 9323&Nty=0 http://www.mcmaster.com/ Metric Bolts > Metric Thread Size Head Style Standard Hex System of Measurement Metric Metric Thread Size M14 Thread Direction Right Handed Grade/Class Class 10.9 DIN 931 Steel Zinc-Plated Class 10.9 2 mm 80 mm Partially Threaded Deutsche Industrie Normen (DIN) 95327A739 3.24 per Pack of 1 DIN 931 Steel Zinc-Plated Class 10.9 2 mm 90 mm Partially Threaded Deutsche Industrie Normen (DIN) 95327A742 3.50 per Pack of 1 DIN 931 Steel Zinc-Plated Class 10.9 2 mm 100 mm Partially Threaded Deutsche Industrie Normen (DIN) 95327A745 3.54 per Pack of 1 DIN 931 Steel Black Class 10.9 2 mm 50 mm Partially Threaded Deutsche Industrie Normen (DIN) 91310A786 8.20 per Pack of 5 DIN 931 Steel Black Class 10.9 2 mm 60 mm Partially Threaded Deutsche Industrie Normen (DIN) 91310A788 7.05 per Pack of 5 DIN 931 Steel Black Class 10.9 2 mm 70 mm Partially Threaded Deutsche Industrie Normen (DIN) 91310A790 9.17 per Pack of 5 DIN 931 Steel Black Class 10.9 2 mm 80 mm Partially Threaded Deutsche Industrie Normen (DIN) 91310A792 9.81 per Pack of 5 DIN 931 Steel Black Class 10.9 2 mm 90 mm Partially Threaded Deutsche Industrie Normen (DIN) 91310A794 8.31 per Pack of 5 DIN 931 Steel Black Class 10.9 2 mm 100 mm Partially Threaded Deutsche Industrie Normen (DIN) 91310A796 12.14 per Pack of 5

OK then, I would start looking for a melted wire or places where it could of gotten stripped abraided, a loose wire from one pin connector etc... That's making the resistance go down by providing a better path or bigger wire, thereby increasing the guage reading. Remember size of the wire determines the resistance .

As Pete Stated either will work but the $$$ may make your decision. Use Boat Rivets, they are designed so as not to pull through the hull, transom or bow.

There's 3 electronic devices on an 88 4.0; Coolant Sending Unit - cylinder head Coolant Temperature Sensor - Left side of the block under intake Radiator Temperature Switch - Radiator Drivers side All must be connected and in viable working condition

I bought the Harbor Freight el cheapo, Central Pneumatic, an extra mandrel and tube of blades for under $60. Works OK for curves and tight stuff, if you do long straight cuts then you need metal shears, I got those too. Stuff is about 5 years old and still working fine. I keep lotsa oil in them, don't cut beyond their abilities, have a fair amount of skill and technique. The tools don't work for you, you have to work the tools.