brigarpeon

I don't know if Rustoleum does. Most automotive paint supply houses have their paint brand in etching primer, in aerosol. It's a little pricey but worth it. Unless you don't mind peeling paint. http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?item ... pe=PRODUCT

You could also have clogged pick up foot on the pump assembly. There shouldn't be a problem w/ a new fuel filter delilvering pressure to the rail. That symptom would be stalling or low power or hesitation up around WOT. But if the pump is straining it would most likely be because of an obstruction, unless the pump is failing. Now you will be able to read low pressure output at the rail. If you can't get the pressure up with the regulator to 30-32 psi, then it's just a matter of time. :redX:

I would sand with 400 and use etching primer first, then paint.

Use 2 screwdrivers to pop off the retention cages that wrap around the anchoring pin shafts. I have also found sometimes a sheetmetal cage nut has replaced the cages.

Right now my beater Comanche does the same thing. There are a lot of issues that can cause death wobble, nothing specific about it. It's kind of a wondering, different solution problem. My beater does exactly what you describe; a vibration sort of wobble 45mph and below that you can brake or accelerate through, a real death wobble above 45 mph that requires a vehicular stop to bring to a halt. I had my first 60 mph death wobble last Thursday that scared me and I ain't askeert of nothing. My trucks bushings are shot, turn hard left or right sitting still and it cracks under the drivers floorboard. Turning left or right on a slight uphill grade it cracks under the drivers floorboard. Matter of fact no matter where you turn it cracks under the drivers floorboard. Everything on the truck needs replaced bushings, steering etc... but I bought a truck to redo so I don't want to put any money in it right now. The other day when I had that 60 mph wobble I was on my way to get sand. I bought 1500 lb what I got was 1757 lb... on a Comanche for cripes sake. :nuts: It has the Metric ton springs w/ homebrew coils on the rear axle 6 ply tires @50 psi and will haul. Point is it DID NOT even attempt to wobble with near a ton on it, even with the front up. Because the bushings were not free to move with all that weight. Too bad it's stuck up to the axle in the back yard with a ton of sand on it for a little beach at the pool. Can't afford gas for vacation, well just won't, so we're bringing the beach to us.

If it's a blue white spark it's enuff. If it's orange it's weak. You may have an ECM problem. Recently it seem to me that there's alot of "old" wiring problems surfacing... fusible links, relays burnt, coatings wearing through etc... Make sure all is well in the power side of things Latch key. fuel pump.

The LWB bed was advertised as 7' 6". I don't think the info you have is correct 195.5" is longer than the wheelbase. The real difference is 18". 7'6" is 231.648 cm or 2316.48mm

Yes they can be swapped out. They are a standard relay you can pick up at your local FLAPS. Just take it in with you. Friend of mine had a Ranger, very similar harness, latch key, fuel pump system. That lost the computer. Picked up a parts Ranger for $25 that ran, changed the ECM ran great til one day the map sensor went bad. We worked at it for a month changing out all the electronics from the parts Ranger. Finally I said I thought it was the ECM again, he said "no way" because it had spark, fuel and was plainly getting air. I said ECM. It sat for 10 months, one day he said he wanted to get it running. We were re-checking what we had done before. Then he tells me about his buddy who came over and jumper wired the latch key over at the harness. Once I looked at it I could still see the arc on the terminals, He didn't tell me that 10 months before and assumed that because he had spark and fuel they didn't hurt anything. Again I said ECM. He went over to his uncle, who gave him an ECM, put it in and the truck fired right up.

Fuel pump and key buzzer work from the latch key system. There are 2 blue relays on your passenger side fenderwell, one is the fuel pump relay the other is the Latch key relay. Replace both and see what happens. Even if the ECM is bad you shoud still get the fuel pump and latch key relays to kick in. It still will have fuel, air and spark with a bad ECM, it just won't start because it does get the spark at the right time. At the starter relay: green wire with green fusible link= ignition red wire with orange fusible link= latch key red wire with orange or green fusible link= fuel pump

Vents for an 00 regular cab Dak are located in the back wall. That's all I know for sure. Check Pete, I will investigate that. I have a tarp, sleeping bag, coveralls and a myriad of other things back there like bags with ropes etc... I probably have them blocked. It do pop yur ears don't it?

Nice truck. Tell us a little more about it, equipment, plans etc... I was going to do a search for white commanches w/ a chrome grille so I could see if I liked it. Just didn't have the time, the only difference from what I plan is Canyon wheels. What color is your interior? In the Backround is that a 68-70 Roadrunner, Satellite or Coronet? You don't like Smurf Blue? I'm thinking to change mine from Maroon TO Smurf Blue. White paint and green tinted windows. Ahhh it's a Coronet.

I've tried to figure that out too. Obviously it's a signature theme but beyond aesthetics, I believe it allows the area behind the trim panels to breathe, hence moisture that accumulates can evaporate and dry. Just a therom, may not be realistic. Inquiring minds wanna know. Hey Pete that sounds good too! I have a restored VW Bug that I can't close the door on with one closing. You havta get it on the first catch then use force to click the second. Too many holes in my Comanche to proof it but my 03 Dakota does the same thing but not everytime.

Thanks for all the info guys. I've been printing all the diagnostic suggestions out to perform. Now that I can get it jumped again, I'll probably take it to Advance and get them to test the battery and alt on the spot. I think I've got a multi-meter lying around, but assuming it's the battery I can get it changed out on the spot. However, and not to discount your opinions, as noted in the quote of my own statement above, I went from a "no lights on, no power, no nothing" status to a little jiggle of something all of a sudden giving me lights, key buzzer, elec. fan on. That to me screams something other than dead battery cell. I start to worry about a guy that quotes himself on a forum :nuts: You're right about it might be something else, like the power junction block you found behind the headlight. I guess I just assumed that you would take the leads off clean the corrosion and repack it with dielectric grease and eliminate that much of your issue. :dunno: It's the same as a battery terminal that needs cleaned for maintenance. When I wiggle and jiggle and it makes something happen that didn't before, I try to find out why.

I had the same problem it took 45 minutes to get it changed. Here's how I changed it in 2 minutes. Put the spark plug in the tightest holding spark plug socket you have. I used a 10" flexible twist cable extension from a quarter inch drive palm driver with a 1/4" to 3/8" drive adapter. Use the cable to start and set the plug in the hole, turn it as much as it will go. Now remove the flex cable, the adapter may stay in the spark plug socket. Just get your 90 degree right angle snap ring pliers to reach down and grasp the adaptor by the 1/4" drive hole and pull the adaptor out. Next you will need either a slim line rachet or an offset 5/8" box end to tighten the plug. I had to go by the feel of the torque of the plug because there's not enuff room for a torque wrench. Remove the box end normally or spark plug socket by using the right angle snap ring pliers. I been wrenching for over 38 years, it is possible to tell by feel when you have reached the formeer thread set or you can bench torque a bolt in the vice with the torque wrench set correctly and use that feel to get it tight. I removed and installed the same plug I had just put in after I figured it out in 2 minutes.

Hey I was shot once by somebody else w/ a 6.52. Hurt like H3LL and left a big scar. In other words... No Fun At All. I power washed the engine bay of the truck I bought from wahoo in prep for some work, I hate stinky greasy goo. Found water on both the driver and passenger floor. :???: Just went out and looked sure enuff there are grommets missing in the firewall on both sides. Guess I'll check out Tractor Supply and see if they have any. I think we can split them with a razor knife for the holes w/ harness or cables coming thru and clear RTV them in place.

That's exactly the way I did the Chevy shorty. I see you have a bed liner so you didn't need any cushion between. I have a trailer but I did it like this because who wants to drag a trailer around all over GOD'S country for 800 miles with all the little stops. Like this you can whip it in and whip it out. :huh???:

Do you have power on both sides of the blue fusible link, on the RED wire, that goes from the starter relay to the alternator? Auto Zone or Advanced Auto Parts can check both the Battery condition and the Alternator output if you don't have a multimeter. Did you try a battery known to be good and pull off the positive cable? If the truck runs with the positive off, I have to agree with mvusse sounds like a battery. Remember the truck you sold me? That battery was dead when you brought it. The next day I jumped it and got it started, even after the truck ran (tho rough) for 45 mins, when I shut it down it had no charge. I jumped it again and took off the positive terminal the truck ran on so the alternator was good. I put the battery charger on it, I have the fancy one w/ all the bells and whistles, and it told me the battery had an internal short. I took it out and replaced it, the truck started right up and has kept itself charged.

I have a Specialized ROCK HOPPER II that's 10 years old and has 990 miles on it. $1,200.00 new. Just had it up to One Wheel Drive for NEW "straight" Roval rims, IRC Back Country tires and Magura carbon brake pads. Last time I rode it I had a 32 inch waist and weighed 185 lbs. I hope it can take the stress cause now I have a 42" waist and weigh 257 lbs. I'll be fine on the level and downhill, might have to "SKITCH" or worse PUSH to get back up the mountain to home. What posesses idiot's to pay $5,000 for a :mad: bike?

Yah that's worth the price he paid for it a little more even. I woulda probably stayed away from it because it's a 6 cylinder. But thats because I have all these 4 cylinder parts. I like the 26 - 28 mpg vs 17 mpg. If I were buying a manche without having parts...snatch in a heart beat.

I just bought some from Advance auto too. Did you mean the ones that have a black coloration to them? I bought those because I thought it might be black oxide coating, thinking that they may prevent corrosion. Hope that's right.

It's this hillbilly scrap yard. They are only interested in metal; steel, aluminum, copper, brass. It's off in the woods, locals get their parts there, but they are not a salvage yard per say. I've known the guys Jim Garlock and his brothers, Bob and Alain SINCE BACK IN THE 70'S when we were kids their Dad did have an auto salvage close to town so we used to go out and pull stuff for him just so we could drive trucks when we were unlicensed. They cut stuff out like that so they can separate the aluminum and cast from the steel. I've seen them smash perfectly good trannies and cases with a sledge. That's also where I got the YJ FRONT FAUX 44, another drive down let put it in the bed and drive home. Had it two weeks, then Ted brought up his brother Mick, he trashed his front axle and needed a replacement w/ 4:10's. So the barter began; whadda ya want fo it? whadda ya give me? How much, Swopey? I have alot invested in it. I give ya $450. Sold. I only paid $250 for it. Problem with the place is they only get completely broken down ancient equipment and insurance wrecks so ya gotta watch what your buy'n. Interior and exterior parts are mostly aways bent beyond recognition or brain matter and blood stained. Just too creepy for me to sit on or have in my truck. I couldn't charge you a finders fee after you sold me the truck you did for such a good deal and delivered it. But we could have a couple Elephant beers next time if you have the time.

I've watched your project since the first post, clean to begin with and the additions I back 100%. The steering does look beefy and will probably be my new goal for my project truck. Please let us know about the dreaded "Death Wobble" and if you experience it and especially if you don't. Could be the steering system will beat it out on a lifted MJ/XJ. The one thing I did notice was that crimp in your exhaust down pipe under the oil pan. That looks like it's restricted down to 1 1/2 or less. That could cause too much back pressure and not let the engine breath. The results could be noticed as a lack of pick up starting out, lopey idle, long straight aways to pass, a hotter than normal engine or poor fuel mileage. I would weld in a piece that's not so restrictive under the oil pan. I've found that my truck performs and delivers the best MPG with 2 1/4" exhaust pipe and a turbo muffler.

You'll need an orbital buffer, I like the wool pads. Foam can burn the paint off the edges quickly. I use Wizard's Turbo Cut as a cleaning compound and Wizard's Shine Master as a sealant. The best way to buff is to let the machine weight do the work and only add pressure to the stubborn area's and only about half the machine weight pressure on angled edges. Be careful and don't hurry it up and you'll be fine. Technique will come with experience.

Nice look'n truck but still only worth 2500 - 3000 it doesn't have anything special but a chrome grille. As far as the engine; my buddy Ted and I just picked a 4.0 H/O,auto and transfer case W/ 59,000 and some change for his Cherokee. $650 bucks and it was cut out of the donor w/ a torch and all we had to do was pay and park while they loaded it in the bed with a hyster. Then tie it down and drive home...whew hard work.