brigarpeon

Yes it will work great! I use either Loctite silver antiseize or Molypaste. Slide the threaded connector back and use your finger tip to coat the backside of the flares then slide the threaded conector up on the flare and wipe off any excess on the face. Use your finger tip to coat the threaded part of the connection starting one thread back from the starting thread. After you install the connection push some of the antiseize down in the hole where the line enters the threaded connector. Next time you have do a wheel cylinder you will thank yourself by not breaking the line trying to get it loose. As for the line tube length, tape up the ends where you are going to grease and paint them with a good Urethane or quailty Undercoat. Do what ever bending needs done then wipe them down with Alcohol then paint them. If your an anal retentive like myself then you sand w/ 400 grit and prime w/ Urethane primer before you paint or undercoat. Or... you could just buy stainless steel lines and grease them

I would say what has happened in your case is the largest tire weight nodules and largest wheel weight nodules are aligned around the concentrical center. Heavy side tire and heavy side wheel are both on the same side of the assembled wheel and tire in relation to the center. It could be only one of the front tires. Take them to a shop that has electronic spin balancing with a kinetic read out and use the adhesive weights. That will tell you how much weight is off to one side. Break that tire and rotate it 180 on the rim. Then have them balance as close as they can with as little weight as possible. Doing both fronts will guarentee wheel balance. The truck did not do it before the tire change so in this case the balance is the most proable cause of Death Wobble.

Dog gone Wahoo your good. Yep Italian wedding soup. I just love them lil round macaroni. Speaking of Ribs. The Local Firehouse sponsers a Fair/Carnival every summer. They make open pit Ribs with just about whatever you want on them. Every year I go down and every year I come back so full I'm sick but have 4 containers in the cooler for later. I believe these to be the best I've ever had bar none.

Hey good job and thanx for lett'n us all know. I wondered why you brought up Rock auto. The other day when I mentioned the whole shebang I meant to post the Rock auto info but instead I posted the auto zone link to just the pump. But you found it anyway so that makes me the tard

Yea, but a power robber of my 121 horsepower 4 popper. If I added anything run by a belt, it would be AC! I'd rather be cool while turning my Arm Strong steering in Missouri hot heat. 8) I'll betcha your going to get 28+ mpg with this. Imagine if you had a 5 spd prolly 30-32 mpg. Get in the habit of turning the wheels while your moving a bit instead of while sitting still. Then you probably won't even miss the power steering, til ya havta weasel it in some tiny tight spot.

That sounded so good last night when I read it. Today I had sausage meatballs, collard greens butter and onion in chicken broth with acini de pepe. Now that thar was GOOOOOOD!

Oh, we trail lunch all the time here in the northeast.

R U going to tell us next you made that on the exhaust manifold?

Start the truck and pull the positive off, if it shuts down the alternator is shot.

I had a #2 SUPERSIZED w/ a DR Pepper

Maybe it's just the belt or it tauntness then.

I think you'll have to call the JEEP dealers and see if they might have that in their on the shelf parts stock. Late model salvage yards use PRO 1 to locate various thing that may be anywhere in the US or Canada. You might also find that on E-bay from someone who may have bought out obsolete Jeep stock at an auction. But you will need a crossover number to use another model sender. Otherwise you'll have to buy the hole shebang or live without a working gas gauge. :redX: http://www.autozone.com/R,APP168903/veh ... Detail.htm

The fuel pump and sending unit are an assembly that is all in one. EDIT: I should have been a little more informative. You can remove the sending unit from the pump. What I meant was the only way to get a new sender unit is to buy the complete assembly from Auto Zone or whatever FLAP is in your area for 90 -100 bucks. Because as stated below, the sender is no longer available by itself.

That's a nice look'n Tuff Truck and we all know how tough it really is. But now that race team name is just KEWL, first time I ever seen it.

I use Easy Off oven cleaner laugh you may but don't get it on ya, it'll eat your hide. Just ask me, I got it on my face once. It ate all the ugly off and only left me with nothing but handsome.

To check the battery just put a multimeter set at 12V, across the terminals it should carry a 13.2 to 13.7+ volt charge. If it reads under 13 volts then (A) The battery is not being recharged by the alternator, (B) The battery has an internal short and can not recieve a charge. If the battery reads 13.2 an above; jump the truck and remove the hot + terminal. If the truck stalls then the alternator is not charging the system. This can be from multiple reasons but first take your multimeter under the truck and check the field output of the alternator. The output should be 13.7 to 14.2 volts less than that replace the alternator. If you check out at 13.7 to 14.2 at the the alternator output then you need to check the fusible links at the starter relay under the hood on the passsennger side fenderwell behind the headlights. The large gauge red wire with the blue fusible link actuates the alternator. The last thing I can think of would be the B+ LATCH relay on the passenger side fender well, mine only has 2 relays, one is the fuel pump relay the other is the B+ Latch key relay. I SERIOUSLY DOUBT IT'S THE IGNITION MODULE As far as the clock/radio issue goes there is an in line 5amp fuse in the violet/orange wire that feeds from the harness Variety LTS that could be blown. This in line fuse is in addition to the radio fuse and the clock fuse bringing the total to 3 fuses.

Did this once on a 72 CJ because the fan would take out the rad when forging water. PITA to get filled and very hard for the stock water pump to keep the water moving enough to keep it cool. This thing would read OK by the gauge then all of a sudden overheat and squirt out all the water as steam. Lesson learned: It did save the Radiator in forgings, it DID NOT keep the engine cool enough so it blew up the engine.

You can use a vaccum storage can like those the racers use to store vaccumized air when their cam is too big. You will need 2 check valves and a Selec-Trac switch or similar from a vehicle with Selec-Trac. I know AMC Eagles had them in the dash and I can't remember which car had them on the console. A Talon? They just switch left to right for 2wd and 4wd. Run the line to the vaccum can from the mainfold via a Tee, then from the vaccum can to the center vaccum port on the Selec-Trac switch. Run Lines from the switch to your axle actuator. 2wd position vaccum port connects to the small diameter canister side of the actuator, 4wd position vaccum port connects to the big diameter canister. You will only have a basic engagement system but you could use another check valve and a 4wd vaccum switch from an XJ or MJ for a light if you wanted.

Yep just pour it in and go. You don't remove it, you use it as an additive. I can understand how the guy got leaks the way this stuff works. You are probably right it cleaned up all the gunk that was serving as a replacement gasket. Look at the bootm of your oil fill cap and down in the rocker valley, if it's fairly clean then you are safe. If it's all gunge then it would be asking for trouble. Probably not a good idea for the crankcase of a negelected motor as it could even clog up the oil pump screen. It's good to go in the gas tank of ANY vehicle.

Just the 2 prong harness for the front lights but that a nice to do. Plug and play.

I would still buy 2 cans and put one in the gas tank and 1 in the crankcase. That way things will stay nice in there, it cleans the valves and oil deposits up.

I'm a strong advocate of Seafoam, pricey but what a good job it does. It's residual so you benefit with the next tank ful also does er all, cleanes loosens, removes water, lubricates etc... I could tell a diference in the injectors after only 20 miles or so, water right away http://www.seafoamsales.com/ But then I like Kroil better than PB Blaster.

You mean there are people out there who don't do that. I run my new ones on air fluff for an hour unloaded before I actually use them. Washer mini cycle unloaded wash and rinse.

I don't speak for Eagle but from the vantage that I agree. The CAUSE is there everyday from the road shock that the vehicle experiences during travel over a myriad of surfaces. What you repaired re-established control over it's ability to become harmonic. Which is good and correct.

Everybody wants a deal, that's what we look for. I understand how much goes in projects in dollars and labor. If it were broken in, meaning started and put through the break in period for the cam I would go $600-800. Here's the problem, just because he did it himself does not mean he's good at it. You may know he is but we don't. If I spent that same $600-800 on a no guarentee motor and it blows at start up shame on me so I would only spend the $350 like dezipped. Based on the chance she'll MOBY DICK on me.