brigarpeon

I beg to differ. Track bar, control arms and tie rod ends are NEVER a "cause" of death wobble. I drove around for six months with a very badly worn track bar (like more than a quarter turn of free play at the steering wheel) and never had a hint of death wobble. Same with worn tie rod ends and LCAs. What causes death wobble is whatever sets a tire to "wobbling" -- usually that's poor tire balance, or it might be warped brake rotors (in which case you get DW only when braking) or a bump in the road. Loose steering components cannot "cause" death wobble, they are just less capable of damping it out once it starts. However, it's also important to be sure we're really talking about "death wobble" and not just plain old, garden variety wheel shimmy. The term death wobble gets used so often on Jeep boards that many people assume ANY wobble in a tire is death wobble. Not so. Death wobble is when the shaking in one front wheel gets transmitted to the other side, that wheel also starts shaking, and the shaking is of a frequency that each wheel harmonically reinforces the shake in the opposite side until it gets so bad that you literally cannot control the vehicle. I mean exactly what I wrote -- with death wobble, you cannot control the vehicle -- you can only slam on the brakes and pray you slow down before you run off the road or hit something. That's why it is called "death" wobble -- 'cause if you don't fix it, you're gonna die. Anything else is just wheel shimmy. Shimmy is not a good thing, but it's limited to one wheel and is almost always caused by tire balance. You can drive with one wheel shimmying -- I've been beside cars on the highway and you can see one front wheel jumping up and down, and the driver just keeps motoring along as if nothing is wrong. That ain't death wobble. The reason most balancers only spin to about 60 MPH is that 50 to 55 MPH is the magic window where balance causes shimmy. If a tire will spin up through 55 without starting to shimmy -- it's balanced. The front tires on my '88 XJ are slightly out of balance right now. I get a slight shimmy at 55 MPH. I do not get death wobble, and at 65 it's as smooth as silk. This is not peculiar to Jeeps -- 50 to 55 has been the window for shimmy for as long as I've been playing with cars, and that's about 50 years. Hey Eagle guess what? We agree for a change. I have had the violent shaking known as death wobble begin it's harmonic journey with an axle universal joint begin the transmission. As you've stated components can only do the job of controling it be that a good or bad job. I'd like to throw this out for discussion. STAMPED STEEL control arms. They are prone to flexing from the beginnig based on the part design. That being a stamped, cheap to manufacture part. Wouldn't it be probable that over a period of time the loading and unloading of the arm in everyday driving are causing the control arm to weaken? Not enough to work harden the material but enough to cause a loss in rigidity. Rather than containing the stresses and directing but allowing more flex, thereby not controlling the harmonic motion/force. This foray is leaning more towards the stock and under 3 inch lift crowd. Over 3" begins a steering geometric journey that we probably shouldn't get into at this stage. I believe tubular LCA's do a lot to fix a stock/>3 truck. I wonder what would happen if someone were to gusset or straight bar reinforce the stock steel stamped control arms?

I thought for a minute I was losing it :nuts: no I don't recall asking about the test for the TDC sensor (I checked the posts) no point in testing something that you know works. Just got home and fixin' to go get a bit greasy and see if we can fix this thing while I have a bit more daylight. Nope your not nuts... I am :nuts: I posted the Test in your 2.5 thread and it was the "2.5 won't start" thread a bit further down that I meant to post it in. Glad you got it fixed though.

1. 4 cylinder does not have a cam position sensor. 2. He ask yesterday for the Crankshaft sensor test that was not replied to 3. 1988 - 1990 JEEP 2.5L Renix Service Manual 4. Some things even I don't know but I admit it.

TDC SENSOR The TDC sensor senses TDC and BDC crankshaft positions as well as engine RPM. Sensor is located on left rear side of engine and is not adjustable. Sensor is secured by special shouldered bolts to flywheel/drive plate housing. TESTING 1) Disconnect ignition coil wire from center tower of distributor cap. Using insulated pliers, hold coil wire about 1/2" (13 mm) away from engine block. Crank engine and check for spark between wire and engine block. 2) If spark occurs, reconnect coil wire to distributor cap. Remove spark plug wire from one spark plug. Using insulated pliers, hold wire about 1/2" (13 mm) away from engine block. 3) Crank engine and check for spark between wire and engine block. If spark occurs, check fuel system for problems. If no spark occurs, check for a defective rotor, distributor cap, or spark plug wires. Replace parts as necessary. 4) If rotor, cap and wires are okay, check for loose or corroded connections at coil terminals. If necessary, clean terminals and wires. Ensure wires are properly seated on coil terminals and not wedged between coil body and terminal. If okay, go to next step. 5) Check for loose connectors at ICM or ECU. Verify that wire connectors are firmly plugged into ICM and ECU. Also check for loose ICM or ECU ground wire connections at oil dipstick bracket. Clean and tighten if necessary. 6) Load test battery to ensure battery is fully charged. Replace battery if necessary. If battery is okay, check voltage between terminals "A" and "B" of ICM connector while cranking engine. 7) Minimum voltage reading should be 9.5 volts. If voltage is okay, go to next step. If voltage is low, check continuity of ICM and ECU ground wires. Repair or replace as necessary. 8) Using an ohmmeter, check ignition coil resistance. Resistance on primary winding should be .4-.8 ohms. Secondary resistance should be 2500-4000 ohms. If correct, go to next step. If not, replace ignition coil. 9) Check ECU and ICM with Tester (MS 1700). Replace ICM or ECU if either fails MS 1700 test sequence.

Not sure what you mean by "phasing", I thought that at TDC the rotor should be lined up with #1 wire post on the cap since the computer takes care of all engine functions. Phasing is where the rotor is in relation to the distributor post at TDC for all cylinders in their sequence. When the cylinder fires, the rotor has already moved past the point where it ignites the compressed charge. If it is phased before TDC it will spark before the piston is at the top of the stroke. The computer does take care of the fire position but it is based on TDC and the components in the correct position, it will allow for several degrees of change. If the rotor is phased before and the computer sees TDC IT WILL fire at 8-10 degrees before. Whereas set correctly it will fire when the COMPUTER sees TDC through the CPS, which in reality is around 10 degrees after. So, Yes it will line up with the #1 post but it's all about where on the #1 post. The ECU can handle small variation but not 20 + degrees of variation.

Yes it can be rough a tooth out. Phase the rotor to the cam. Remember the rotor should be 10 - 12 degrees past the distributor post, not before it, at TDC, to be phased correctly.

Hand tight; where you can grasp and grip the part is usually 3-4 ft lb. after you've turned it as far as you can. Finger tight; where you use the tips of your fingers to tighten the nut/bolt is usually around 1 ft lb. Put your socket and extension on the nuts and turn them down by hand as tight as you can in the sequence MiNi Beast suggested. Then take an open end wrench and watch the hex on the bolt head and just tighten it by moving it 1/16th of an inch. That should put you really close, 5 -6 ftlbs won't hurt it but 10 ft lbs may break it.

I just use 2 medium flatblade screwdrivers. Point the blades at each other from opposite sides, twist and lift the handle slightly then pull it off. If it wants to be tight all the way then spray w/ WD-40 and use the screwdrivers to form an X to wedge it off w/ little pressure. Tape the ends of the blades so not to tear up the door panel.

That could be true. If I remember correctly they are M10 Metric, 10.2 hardness and are between 3/4" and 1 inch long. Any FLAP or Hardware store that carry metric should have them.

This what your looking for? http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch ... 4294744934 If so then: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... pplication

Cathy's Clown by The Everly Brothers

You can buy lacquer, enamel and urethane. Cost is in that order as is is the durability. Lacquer can be bought for $ 0.99 a can, urethane is 4.99. Lacquer will wash off a little at a time, urethane will take a scratch the best.

Here's what I do: Tighten Spindle nut to 30-40 ft lbs to properly seat bearing. Loosen Spindle nut completely until it can be turned by hand. Finger tighten Spindle nut by hand without rotating hub. Install the cotter pin: if the slot in the nut is just past the alignment hole the nut may be loosened to fit the cotter pin, if the slot in the nut is just approaching the alignment hole the nut may be tightened to fit the cotter pin. Check for excessive End Play by rotating the hub by hand 2 -3 complete rotations. The hub should rotate freely. There should be no noticeable movement when the hub is moved parallel in any direction of the centerline. Just wiggle it firmly while rotating. Readjust as necessary by completely unseating the bearing.

Hope you got some good news today. Mine is the L4, L5 area. Had those 2 vertebrate fractured 25 years ago in a cycle crash. Then compression fractures in the same area about 10 years ago from lifting far too much weight. Had it up over my head and the weight shifted backwards and hairlined the old injury. This last time I was drug by the car when I thought I had put it in park and it started drifting. Slipped when I went to jump in and got twisted like a rag doll but did get it stopped. That was about 8 months ago, muscle relaxers and pain pills since then. I don't take the pain med til night, I don't want to be oblivious to the pain and do more damage. Xrays, MRI's show the damage but I am trying to stay away from the surgery. I've roughed it through with the other injuries and it seems to be getting better. I bought one of those Tippers from TV that invert you for traction. I feel things realigning and popping so I think this will work. I've only had it for 3 weeks but before I could hardly move, since this treatment started I can move easier and only have the stiffness and limpity moves first thing in the morning.

Don't believe I would want to take a chance on the transfer case in this one due to the rear hit. The 2.5L/AX5/231 I'm using is low mileage.

I stopped in over the weekend and talked to Jim. From what I read I better pick this thing soon. This was a pick up off the turnpike that he stored til the accident had been investigated and the vehicles released. He told me it was going to be recycled in the next thirty days along with about 40 others. I gave him a hundred down on it so it wouldn't get crushed and he's gonna put it out near the crusher on pylons. It's kinda setting on a bank and I wasn't dressed for JY WARS but I did see the compressors on the transfer case mount. Condition unknown all I could really see was the bottom part. The front DS looks good but it's in a little tension from the rear hit. Pretty well burnt inside but the fire wall side of the dash is bad at the dash but better at the firewall. Just melted in the some engine bay. Rear wheels and tires burnt but the front didn't. Looks like a good candidate. I need to check out some driveshaft mounting configurations/fixes. I may cut the DS off so I have the mount. I don't know the DS tube size to know if it's just a machine and weld. If he has it out of there I'm going to pick it up this Sat or next. I couldn't get ahold of my buddy Johnny to see about help for extra parts, in getting that 8.8 and this axle from the yard. My back needs surgery and I'm not real quick or as contorsional as I used to be so I'll havta see what Sat. he's available. Thanks everybody

Blown Headgasket.

Would there be a compressor on the Wrangler? Do you know if it would be in the dash or on the firewall? If Dash I doubt it's good, if firewall there's a good possibility it may work. There woud be a harness to it then with a plug of some sort? I would then have to rig a switch to turn on the compressor. I'll try to check this axle out technically a little better on the net. I had been only checking the mechanical fit prior to today. Thanks

I give them permission to hunt on private land in deer season and send a lot of business down there.

I have a process I use just for these kind of spots. Wire wheel til shiny Muratic acid brush let it set about 5 minutes Rinse w/ warm water and let dry Shoot a covering coat of etching primer...wait 5 minutes Full coat of etching primer... let cure 4 hours Fill low spots with thin coats polyester filler, let cure, sand Repeat, Fill low spots with thin coats polyester filler, let cure, sand Spray with sealer primer, fogging coat... wait 5 Full coat sealer primer... let cure 4 hours Sand lightly w/ 600 grit watch for high spots Fill any low spots with glazing putty Spray with sealer primer, fogging coat... wait 5 Full coat sealer primer... let cure 4 hours Sand lightly w/ 600 grit Spray with full coat of a different color primer sealer Sand; if flat Top Coat if not work it til flat

For $100 bucks that bed is worth it. You didn't show the tailgate or detail of the tail lights but if they are good, for sure. The bubbles you show are why I hate adhesive backed decals. What has happened is a rock or something similar has chipped the paint at the decal line and water has worked under the decal. It will be more work to remove and smooth that dent in the rear quarter than fixing the rust. If that's the worst of the rust I'd buy it for 100 and I'm picky too.

This is a 2004 Wrangler Rubicon hit hard in the back and caught fire. Windshield back TOAST, forward of the dash good. Should be an Electronic locker then? What else do I need or is it just switched? I would imagine there's a weather pack plug to disconnect. This is a bonus to me and I don't want to look at gift horse in the mouth but I wasn't concerned about a locker. The guy I'm getting it from suprised me when he said $250. I can usually score an axle front or rear from him for$100. This explains the price.

Ignition Module under the coil on the inner fenderwell

The only reason I went this direction is because; the project truck is 2 WD, The TJ axle was low miles, geared right and $250. I'll spend more than that to regear the 30 in the donor Comanche. It's a gas miser w/ 3:31's and has 200,000 miles on it so that would be an easy $5-600. I posted the article for the tech not the process, and really not the price tag. I really don't need a locked front axle. I just don't understand how the same axle used in a Jeep TJ with very good results can be considered so bad for a Comanche destined for the same type of operation. If I had that kind if dinero I'd get (2) 9" Currie axles set up for the Comanche control arms and SOA. You'll have to forgive Eagle as he can be a little, um, blunt sometimes. But believe me, he only wants the best for you. I think he feared you were going to do the swap as described in that article, which is insane. But if you've got an axle lined up for a decent price and it has the right gears, I'd say it would be a good candidate. :thumbsup: We're good Pete. I think the guys just kinda got off on a tangent, thinking I was building a dedicated Crawler or Trail rig. Eagle has already repaid me, if there was anyting to repay. I didn't know that the TJ axle had any kind of a Locker in it at all. I may have done more damage =$$$ by taking the axle out without that knowledge. Now I will know what I'm doing ....... :rotfl2: I could have explained what I was doing better in my first post too

A couple of things could cause this. Bad Throttle Position Sensor A vaccum leak My 2.5 is doing that right now, it has a bad intake/exhaust gasket On a 4.0 the throttle body might need cleaned (IAS)Idle Air Speed motor on 2.5 and (IAC)Idle Air Control on 4.0 There are other possiblities but these are probably the most common